Author Topic: Wee Heavy mash temp  (Read 8645 times)

Offline hokerer

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #30 on: May 20, 2012, 07:52:59 AM »
With the 156F mash temp, mine went from 1.102 down to 1.030.  Sample tasted excellent but I haven't tried any of the bottled/carbed ones.  You guys say you gotta wait months to do that, right?
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Offline tygo

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #31 on: May 20, 2012, 08:30:21 AM »
It benefits from aging but it should still be good before that.  If you're bottle conditioning you might want to wait a month or two just to make sure it's fully carbed.  Mine always seem to take that long once I've bottled. 
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Offline nateo

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #32 on: May 20, 2012, 09:43:23 AM »
It benefits from aging but it should still be good before that.  If you're bottle conditioning you might want to wait a month or two just to make sure it's fully carbed.  Mine always seem to take that long once I've bottled.

I did a couple batches of champagne-type beer that I reyeasted with EC-1118 (Prise de Mousse). Despite being pretty strong (11% ABV) they carbed up to 5 volumes within a week. I think that'll be my new SOP for strong beers. I've had a few imperial-type beers over the years that never carbed fully, leaving them cloying.
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Offline tygo

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #33 on: May 20, 2012, 09:49:38 AM »
I usually use S05 and it's worked, but very slowly.  Since this one is over 13% I might have to consider the champagne yeast. 
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Offline nateo

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #34 on: May 20, 2012, 09:56:19 AM »
I usually use S05 and it's worked, but very slowly.  Since this one is over 13% I might have to consider the champagne yeast.

The dosage recommendation for champagne works out to 10g per 20L. I believe Red Star Premier Cuvee is the same strain, and those are usually cheaper than EC-1118. Champagne (high ABV + high carb level) is a pretty unfriendly environment for yeast, so 2 packs for a 5 gallon batch are probably reasonable, even though you may not need as much CO2 as you would in a champagne.

Another nice thing about champagne yeast is there's no way it'll touch any of the complex residual sugars, and will only ferment the simple sugars you prime with.   

I was bottling in 750ml bottles, and gave the bucket a gentle swirl with a long spoon every 3 or 4 bottles to make sure the yeast was evenly distributed. I bottled 5 gallons that way, and 5 gallons by just dumping the yeast in, and not swirling. The swirled batch carbed much more evenly and quickly than the non-swirled batch.

I've also used Cote des Blanc in the past, but it didn't flocc' as nicely as the Prise de Mousse, and the Blanc left little kraeusen rings around the necks of the bottles. Prise de Mousse is the way to go.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2012, 10:01:27 AM by nateo »
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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #35 on: May 21, 2012, 05:06:56 AM »
Getting ready to partigyle. According to Noonan, you are supposed to collect 13 qts sparge runnings and heat this for the second mash's strike? do I got that right?
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Offline kylekohlmorgen

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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #36 on: May 21, 2012, 06:27:20 AM »
Getting ready to partigyle. According to Noonan, you are supposed to collect 13 qts sparge runnings and heat this for the second mash's strike? do I got that right?

Do you mean run the first runnings back through during the sparge?
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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #37 on: May 21, 2012, 08:41:37 AM »
Getting ready to partigyle. According to Noonan, you are supposed to collect 13 qts sparge runnings and heat this for the second mash's strike? do I got that right?

I don't think so.  You just sparge to get your second running beer and boil that.  You don't do another mash with runnings.
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Re: Wee Heavy mash temp
« Reply #38 on: May 21, 2012, 12:57:06 PM »
Getting ready to partigyle. According to Noonan, you are supposed to collect 13 qts sparge runnings and heat this for the second mash's strike? do I got that right?

I don't think so.  You just sparge to get your second running beer and boil that.  You don't do another mash with runnings.

partigyle is when you run off first runnings for one beer, add more WATER to sparge for a second smaller beer. I have not read the book but I remember someone else mentioning noonan's book and he was describing a double mash which is what you are describing, that's when you mash with one load of grain, run off, reheat and use the wort to mash a second load of grain. useful if your mash tun is not big enough for the batch size/gravity you are aiming for.

on my system if I wanted to do 10 gallons of my standard barley wine recipe I would mash the 30+ lbs of munich malt, run off, dispose of the spent grain while heating the wort up to ~170, refill the tun with the strike 'water' and add another 30+ lbs of munich malt.

**EDIT** for full disclosure. I actually partigyle my BW so 30+ lbs of grain is 5 gallons BW and ~7 gallons small beer.