[pehlman]

So recently I brewed the Kern River Brewing "Citra" double IPA clone from The Jamil Show CYBI on The Brewing Network. Im about 9 days in and Im pretty close to the numbers I should be hitting so far. I had an OG of 1.071 and today Im @ 1.012 ... Goal was 1.010, but I won't lose any sleep over that. So I think it's about time to start dry hopping.

Kern River dry hops this beer at fermentation temp, which is 68F

Here is my question:
Since I am fermenting in a 6.5gal carboy, I am going to transfer to a smaller 5gal carboy for dry hopping. My assumption here is that the smaller carboy will help reduce head space, thus less oxidation. Anyway... The dry-hopping schedule for this beer is 4 separate dry-hop additions over a total of 12 days. One new addition (no, not like Bobby Brown. Thats "Edition" with an E.) every 3 days. Since Im in a carboy, and really would NOT like to rack into a new vessel every 3 days (for multiple reasons), do you think i will be ok just adding the hops to that same carboy each time? That means the first dry hops added will be in contact with the beer for 12 days. Im just hoping that at 68F, 12 days wont be too long and start pulling out harsh, green flavors from the hops. What do you guys think???

PS - Ive heard people mention purging the Oxygen out of secondary fermentation carboys using CO2. This may sound dumb to ask... but how exactly is this usually done?

Is using a keg for secondary overall a better idea?

[thebigbaker]

I've been dry hopping in my primary fermenter and skipping racking to a secondary to dry hop.  I just throw the pellets in and let sit for 7 - 10 days.  I would recommend just leaving it in the primary carboy and throw in the hops as scheduled.

[pehlman]

I've been dry hopping in my primary fermenter and skipping racking to a secondary to dry hop.  I just throw the pellets in and let sit for 7 - 10 days.  I would recommend just leaving it in the primary carboy and throw in the hops as scheduled.

I suppose you mean on a homebrew scale I dont have to worry as much about yeast presence during dry-hopping? I could always add just a tad more to compensate? Excuse me if I misunderstood 

[a10t2]

If you've reached FG there won't be much yeast left in suspension (though there will definitely be some, especially if you're using a low-flocculating strain like Chico). I would do what the brewer almost certainly does and add the dry hops in the fermenter.

You'll oxidize the beer more during the transfer to a conditioning vessel than you will adding the dry hops in the fermenter.

[pehlman]

I have heard people mention about dry-hopping in the primary fermenter but i was never too sure about how it would turn out. Plus, since Im still using carboys and not a conical, I cant just drop my yeast so I guess it scared me a bit too much to try. But, I guess there is only one way to find out 

[garc_mall]

I throw dry hops in the primary as well. I use a carboy, toss the pellets or whole hops in the primary, and after a week, they are usually sitting on the bottom. I have ended up with a touch of hop detritus in a couple of bottles, but its not really a problem.

[erockrph]

+1 for just leaving it in the primary for dry hops. I am about to bottle an IIPA today that I did 4 separate dry hop additions on (I got the idea from the same episode of CYBI). All of them were pellets dumped loose into my primary fermenter. I do use a bucket for my dry-hopped beers whenever possible to make it easier to sprinkle the hops in.

No need to drop the yeast or use a secondary unless you're planning on reusing the yeast. The yeast on the bottom of the fermenter won't have any significant effect on the dry hops.

[blatz]

I have heard people mention about dry-hopping in the primary fermenter but i was never too sure about how it would turn out. Plus, since Im still using carboys and not a conical, I cant just drop my yeast so I guess it scared me a bit too much to try. But, I guess there is only one way to find out 

well I have a couple conicals, and I don't drop the yeast before I dry hop - so there!    don't worry too much about it RDWHAHB.

I've started taking to the Brynildson advice of starting dryhopping just before fermentation is finished so the CO2 coming out of solution will scrub off the O2 (in theory)

though I guess when I dryhop the second time in the keg that might undo it, but a purge with CO2 hopefully does me right.

[kylekohlmorgen]

I have heard people mention about dry-hopping in the primary fermenter but i was never too sure about how it would turn out. Plus, since Im still using carboys and not a conical, I cant just drop my yeast so I guess it scared me a bit too much to try. But, I guess there is only one way to find out 

+1 for the Brynildson method.

I dryhop near the end of fermentation (when bubbles are about 30 seconds apart in airlock). The warmer temperatures help with extraction, and you can add a good amount of dry hops without worrying about picking up grassy/vegetal flavors (you'll be racking off in a few days, anyway). Then I'll dryhop again in the keg, pull out the hop bag after 4 days, and then refrigerate/carbonate.

A keg for "secondary" is perfect, esp. for hoppy beers. That way you reduce transfers (oxygen pickup) AND you can purge the keg more effectively than carboys. Minimizing oxygen pickup is the key with hoppy beers. AND the beer gets to the glass quicker!

[pehlman]

Well, if its OK by Matt Brynildson, than its more than OK by me 

I just picked up the new Mitch Steele IPA book, and it is so cool to see all of the different ways brewers go about dry hopping, and all getting such great results. It's too easy to get caught up thinking that there is only one correct way to do something... Whatever makes my beer taste good is what I'd say is correct. HaHa