Author Topic: Quick Disconnect  (Read 2309 times)

Offline goybar

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Quick Disconnect
« on: March 10, 2010, 12:22:52 PM »
Hi All,

I would like to add a weldless ball valve to my kettle.  I always see them with barbed hose adapters. 

Does anyone have or use a quick disconnect?  Does anyone make one?  Similar to what you would use with air compressor tools.

Seems like this would be the way to go.  You don't want the hoses attached while you are boiling your wort. 

Chris

Offline tom

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2010, 12:46:22 PM »
Brew on

Offline denny

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2010, 01:06:49 PM »
Life begins at 60.....1.060, that is!

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Offline riverrat

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2010, 01:13:41 PM »
By far, the best possible solution:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_sanvlv.html

And weld in a set of these:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_hose_connect.html

Then you can use one of these as well:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_siphon_kit.html

This is assuming you have access to or know someone who can weld stainless.

If not, go with something from CPC (colder products if CPC doesn't show up in a search).
Some examples, and a distributor:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=65sds3
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Offline goybar

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2010, 01:14:25 PM »
Thanks, I can't believe I missed those.

Offline majorvices

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2010, 02:46:47 PM »
I have the CPC disconnects and I love them, they make life a lot easier. One thing to consider when choosing a disconnect is that the Polysulfone QDC do not conduct heat so you can touch them when hot. I do agree the tri-clamp connections are the best (they are industry standard for brewing), however the CPC Polysulfone are a bit more economical.

Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.
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Offline timo

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2010, 08:04:37 PM »
All my QD's are SS.......spend more to get the best.  Pricey, yes. Worth it ? Oh baby !!!!
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Offline denny

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2010, 10:34:07 AM »
Hey, timo, good to see ya!
Life begins at 60.....1.060, that is!

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Offline SwashBuckling Drunk

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2010, 01:32:12 PM »
All my QD's are SS.......spend more to get the best.  Pricey, yes. Worth it ? Oh baby !!!!

Please quantify this.  I'm about to get some qd's.


What makes it worth it? better beer? last longer? easier to clean?......

......or just nice to have the bling?

Offline tom

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2010, 03:49:59 PM »
D. All of the above

I have 2 female QDs on the ends of the silicone hoses from my pump, and males on every piece of equipment.

http://www.dultmeier.com/catpages.asp?page=E0170
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Offline yugamrap

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2010, 09:43:08 PM »
I have high-temperature brass QDs http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=66hfyx.  Male on the kettles, mash tun and pump, female on the hoses.  They work great - you just need to remember to use a potholder or glove when handling them.
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Offline dhacker

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2010, 06:30:25 PM »
Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.

YIKES! I'm replying to Keith's 666th post!  :o

I've used the poly CPC quick connects for several years in the "Stock" mode . . that is complete with X bracing intact. I've heard people talk of problems, but I've never experienced any flow plugging issues. I refrained from Dremeling out the Xs because I thought the thing might soften ever so slightly under heat causing a warping distortion in the fitting . . and a resultant leak.
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Offline majorvices

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2010, 05:44:49 AM »
667!  ;D

Haven't had any issues with mine. I ran them with the "X" in tact but when I took them apart to clean them I always noticed they were partially plugged with hops, even though I'm using pellets. I decided to dremel them out just to be safe. In my experience few things can mirror the frustration as when you are trying to move a finished wort to the fermenter and get a clogged line. Stuck sparge excepting, of course.  ;)

That said, I guess it would be an easy thing to fix on the fly. But (in addition to 12) I am running 42 gallon batches which means a lot more hops so I decided not to take the chance.
Keith Y.
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Offline rep

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2010, 06:41:34 AM »
Poke around this site. 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

for theball valves
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k59/=68qfc5

Straight
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k64/=68qe8d

90 degree
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k68/=68qflp

I also recently purchased the rubber gaskets for my kegs through this company as well.
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Offline MrNate

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Re: Quick Disconnect
« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2010, 08:13:20 AM »
Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.

YIKES! I'm replying to Keith's 666th post!  :o

I've used the poly CPC quick connects for several years in the "Stock" mode . . that is complete with X bracing intact. I've heard people talk of problems, but I've never experienced any flow plugging issues. I refrained from Dremeling out the Xs because I thought the thing might soften ever so slightly under heat causing a warping distortion in the fitting . . and a resultant leak.

I used to use CPC QD's, and the problem I had with them is that the O-rings stretch out very easily. I was replacing them just about every other time, even if I lube them up. I never heard of anyone else having that problem, so YMMV and all that. I switched over to plain old GHT, because honestly... How quick does it need to be?

Also... people talk about the X being needed for bracing, but to me it sure looks a hell of a lot like a molding sprue. I never drilled mine out because it never caused me any problems, but given the material and design I would not hesitate to remove it because of any supposed structural issues.
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