[denny]

Don't want to go off topic but I have a quick question. I have seen Golden Naked Oats desribed as a "crystal" huskless oat. It it really a type of crystal malt?

Yep.  Discovered that doing research for the book.

[morticaixavier]

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA's.

I like this idea Jeff...maybe I'll give it a try.

ever try an all Munich AIPA?

I've done a couple all munich brews. pretty intense bready/malty thing going on. especially in the all munich barley wine I did. That one attenuated poorly but my wife loved it. Started calling it an old ale and won a 3rd in flight with it.

There is a flavor impact of munich. but in the 20-30% range it's not overwhelming in my opinion.

[theoman]

I always use about 10% C60 for APA and AIPA.  If you want something with less impact on flavor, you could try 1/2 lb. of carapils.  Mashing at a higher temp will increase body, but also have an impact on flavor.

Yeast can also have an impact.  One of the reasons I like WY1450 so much is the silky mouthfeel it leaves in the beer.

2. Add a touch of flaked wheat or oats (3-5%). I like Golden Naked Oats (which are malted, available from NB) instead of the regular flaked stuff.

+1
I'm a big fan of using oats for body, especially on light, low ABV ales. Then again, I always add oats to my black lagers/ales. Love the stuff.

[natebriscoe]

I'm not denny, but what was the crystal/cara in the first run of the recipe you made, assuming there was at least some?

might actually help us if you posted all the recipe specifics, at least the grain bill, yeast and mash temp.

10% is a pretty good weight for a crystal/cara malt to get you a medium to full body, if using a moderate mash temp (150-155df).  but we'll know more once you let us in on where you're at currently.

I had no crystal or cara-anything in the original recipe.  It had a 100% base of Marris Otter (10 or 11 lbs, I think).  I used plain old WLP001 yeast and I mashed at 154F for about 60 to 75 minutes IIRC.  I also batch sparge with equal amounts of water.  I forget the exact amounts and times (recipe is in BeerSmith on my computer at home) but I used Columbus for bittering (FWH addition) and then amarillo for flavor.

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

[denny]

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That's a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don't mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?

[natebriscoe]

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That's a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don't mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?

I attribute it to temp loss in a cooler, the amount of time lautered wort stays at mash temp, the inability to do a thorough mashout. This is all compared to my rims system and beersmith (and I already know how you feel about brewing calculator estimations). But by upping about 2deg when batch sparging I hit my numbers the same both ways.

[denny]

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That's a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don't mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?

I attribute it to temp loss in a cooler, the amount of time lautered wort stays at mash temp, the inability to do a thorough mashout. This is all compared to my rims system and beersmith (and I already know how you feel about brewing calculator estimations). But by upping about 2deg when batch sparging I hit my numbers the same both ways.

Interesting....whatever works for ya is the right thing to do! 

[natebriscoe]

The Op's fg could shed some light on what's really going on for him.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[factory]

I'm not denny, but what was the crystal/cara in the first run of the recipe you made, assuming there was at least some?

might actually help us if you posted all the recipe specifics, at least the grain bill, yeast and mash temp.

10% is a pretty good weight for a crystal/cara malt to get you a medium to full body, if using a moderate mash temp (150-155df).  but we'll know more once you let us in on where you're at currently.

I had no crystal or cara-anything in the original recipe.  It had a 100% base of Marris Otter (10 or 11 lbs, I think).  I used plain old WLP001 yeast and I mashed at 154F for about 60 to 75 minutes IIRC.  I also batch sparge with equal amounts of water.  I forget the exact amounts and times (recipe is in BeerSmith on my computer at home) but I used Columbus for bittering (FWH addition) and then amarillo for flavor.

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

My FG for the last 2 brews were 1.010 and 1.012.

[blatz]

My FG for the last 2 brews were 1.010 and 1.012.

pretty consistent with what i'd expect an all basemalt FG.

If you want to stick with all MO, try 158df mash temp as Kyle suggested above. I'd expect a little less attenuation.  If you are fly sparging, are you raising to mashout before sparging?  Just checking as if not, the extra 45-60min at mash temps could make your wort more fermentable.

If you want to use some crystal, which I personally would prefer for some flavor complexity, I would actually start at 7% of a medium (15-45L) crystal, and keep your mid range mash temp.  Then if its too much, rachet down to 5% next time or up to 10% if you still want more.

[factory]

My FG for the last 2 brews were 1.010 and 1.012.

pretty consistent with what i'd expect an all basemalt FG.

If you want to stick with all MO, try 158df mash temp as Kyle suggested above. I'd expect a little less attenuation.  If you are fly sparging, are you raising to mashout before sparging?  Just checking as if not, the extra 45-60min at mash temps could make your wort more fermentable.

If you want to use some crystal, which I personally would prefer for some flavor complexity, I would actually start at 7% of a medium (15-45L) crystal, and keep your mid range mash temp.  Then if its too much, rachet down to 5% next time or up to 10% if you still want more.

I batch sparge, so I don't raise up to mash-out temps.  I'm going to try the middle of the road approach with the Crystal and then go from there.  Of course, now that will be later this summer before I get an opportunity to brew again.  I'm in the Navy and I'll be going away for a bit and visiting a hotter climate.  Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

[klickitat jim]

Be safe. Thanks for your service

[blatz]

Be safe. Thanks for your service

+1 to that.

[Jimmy K]

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That's a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don't mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?

I attribute it to temp loss in a cooler, the amount of time lautered wort stays at mash temp, the inability to do a thorough mashout. This is all compared to my rims system and beersmith (and I already know how you feel about brewing calculator estimations). But by upping about 2deg when batch sparging I hit my numbers the same both ways.

From what you're saying, you'd need to raise mash temp a little when fly sparging with a cooler. What you're saying makes sense, but it's not batch vs fly sparging. You're really comparing RIMS vs infusion mash. Right?

[natebriscoe]

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That's a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don't mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?

I attribute it to temp loss in a cooler, the amount of time lautered wort stays at mash temp, the inability to do a thorough mashout. This is all compared to my rims system and beersmith (and I already know how you feel about brewing calculator estimations). But by upping about 2deg when batch sparging I hit my numbers the same both ways.

From what you're saying, you'd need to raise mash temp a little when fly sparging with a cooler. What you're saying makes sense, but it's not batch vs fly sparging. You're really comparing RIMS vs infusion mash. Right?

I suppose so.  I haven't fly sparged with the cooler in years. So for an infusion mash with out the ability to heat as the runnings go in the boil kettle I would up 2 degrees to start with, to match software estimations and my rims setup.