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I wouldnt add yeast nutrients during the boil. Ive smelled that stuff and wouldnt want it cooked into my wort. not sure if it would happen or not, but id avoid it.
Quote from: mtnrockhopper on January 31, 2014, 08:20:40 amAerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick. Gotcha, I do that a couple ways: 1) pouring it fast, and 2) shaking the living crap out of it once I get the lid on . No fancy tech here, just me and a carboy!Quote from: ynotbrusum on January 31, 2014, 12:34:41 pmOn that side burner issue - make sure the burner structure can handle the weight of 8 gallons plus the pot (approaching 70 pounds total, if not more). Just would hate to see a collapse of the cart....not trying to scare you.I actually already thought of that, but I haven't tested the strength of it. Quite honestly, I don't think the flame will be hot enough to do the job. We have one burner on our kitchen stove that is pretty impressive, so I'll probably just do it inside until I can afford a backyard burner. Got my eye on one for $40 that puts out 55,000 BTUs but picking a burner is a completely different post.Quote from: hopfenundmalz on January 31, 2014, 01:47:55 pmCan you check mash pH? Some of us do.I've thought about it, but quite honestly I've never had any issues in all the years I've brewed to warrant it. Of course I've only done extract brews, so maybe an all grain batch is more sensitive to water ph levels ... but my mentor taught me to "relax ... have a home brew" Quote from: kramerog on January 31, 2014, 01:54:55 pmFor a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients. You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.Great advice, I do believe the recipe calls for yeast nutrients 3 days into the primary fermentation. Do you think that adding it during the boil will make that unnecessary?Thanks again everyone!
Aerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick.
On that side burner issue - make sure the burner structure can handle the weight of 8 gallons plus the pot (approaching 70 pounds total, if not more). Just would hate to see a collapse of the cart....not trying to scare you.
Can you check mash pH? Some of us do.
For a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients. You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.
Quote from: Jeff M on February 01, 2014, 01:15:50 pmI wouldnt add yeast nutrients during the boil. Ive smelled that stuff and wouldnt want it cooked into my wort. not sure if it would happen or not, but id avoid it.Yeast nutrient in the boil is not a problem.
Quote from: jasonmcconnell on February 01, 2014, 10:46:35 amQuote from: mtnrockhopper on January 31, 2014, 08:20:40 amAerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick. Gotcha, I do that a couple ways: 1) pouring it fast, and 2) shaking the living crap out of it once I get the lid on . No fancy tech here, just me and a carboy!Quote from: ynotbrusum on January 31, 2014, 12:34:41 pmOn that side burner issue - make sure the burner structure can handle the weight of 8 gallons plus the pot (approaching 70 pounds total, if not more). Just would hate to see a collapse of the cart....not trying to scare you.I actually already thought of that, but I haven't tested the strength of it. Quite honestly, I don't think the flame will be hot enough to do the job. We have one burner on our kitchen stove that is pretty impressive, so I'll probably just do it inside until I can afford a backyard burner. Got my eye on one for $40 that puts out 55,000 BTUs but picking a burner is a completely different post.Quote from: hopfenundmalz on January 31, 2014, 01:47:55 pmCan you check mash pH? Some of us do.I've thought about it, but quite honestly I've never had any issues in all the years I've brewed to warrant it. Of course I've only done extract brews, so maybe an all grain batch is more sensitive to water ph levels ... but my mentor taught me to "relax ... have a home brew" Quote from: kramerog on January 31, 2014, 01:54:55 pmFor a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients. You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.Great advice, I do believe the recipe calls for yeast nutrients 3 days into the primary fermentation. Do you think that adding it during the boil will make that unnecessary?Thanks again everyone!Measuring mash pH is important, as the mash works best in a range from 5.2-5.6 or there abouts. If you want to get serious about all grain, at least get some pH strips (which have a bias that you need to be aware of).https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge