Aerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick.
Gotcha, I do that a couple ways: 1) pouring it fast, and 2) shaking the living crap out of it once I get the lid on
. No fancy tech here, just me and a carboy!
On that side burner issue - make sure the burner structure can handle the weight of 8 gallons plus the pot (approaching 70 pounds total, if not more). Just would hate to see a collapse of the cart....not trying to scare you.
I actually already thought of that, but I haven't tested the strength of it. Quite honestly, I don't think the flame will be hot enough to do the job. We have one burner on our kitchen stove that is pretty impressive, so I'll probably just do it inside until I can afford a backyard burner. Got my eye on one for $40 that puts out 55,000 BTUs but picking a burner is a completely different post.
Can you check mash pH? Some of us do.
I've thought about it, but quite honestly I've never had any issues in all the years I've brewed to warrant it. Of course I've only done extract brews, so maybe an all grain batch is more sensitive to water ph levels ... but my mentor taught me to "relax ... have a home brew"
For a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients. You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.
Great advice, I do believe the recipe calls for yeast nutrients 3 days into the primary fermentation. Do you think that adding it during the boil will make that unnecessary?
Thanks again everyone!