[69franx]

Looking for any input on my next recipe for an IPA.
10# Briess 2 Row
2#Munich 10
1# victory
1 oz Magnum FWH
1 tsp Irish moss @ 15 min
1 oz each Cascade and Amarillo @ 5 minutes
2.5 liter starter of WLP 001
2 stage dry hop with 1 oz each Cascade and Amarillo for 3 days each
1 tsp yeast nutrient @ 3 days
Was trying to keep grain bill simple, have all ingredients ready to brew soon, first time playing with Beersmith, and it fits profile for IPA, dont know how to attach brew step from Beersmith.
Had already purchased ingredients before Beersmith and made adjustments in hopping schedule to fit the BJCP parameters
Beersmith says:
1.074 OG
61.7 IBU
8.1 SRM
7.0% ABV
0.962 BU/GU
So I'm just wondering how this looks to all of you out there in the Brewniverse? Does anything stick out as crazy?

[erockrph]

Looks like a good IPA to me. I'd change the Magnum for FWH. You will get some flavor from a FWH, so you might as well use a hop that will give you the flavor you're looking for (i.e., more Amarillo or Cascade, or another hop in that vein). I also find that FWH gives a more mellow bittering than a traditional 60-minute addition. You may want to bump the IBU's from that addition a bit to make up for that.

I'd also move your 5 minute additions to flameout to get the maximum flavor/aroma extraction from them. I also use a long hop stand to wring every last bit of oil from the hops, but that may be more intense than what you're shooting for. But if you wait about 8-10 minutes before starting to chill your wort you'll get the same ballpark IBU's as a 5-minute addition, but with a lot more flavor/aroma extraction.

[HoosierBrew]

Personally I would cut the Victory in half, increase IBUs a bit ( I like my BU:GU for IPA to be 1 -1.2). Also I think you need more late hops. I see that you're doing a 2 stage dry hop with 4 oz total which will give a good bit of flavor and aroma, but a couple oz of each at flameout wouldn't hurt things at all.  All in all I think you'll make a good beer.  My $0.02

+1 to the hopstand.


EDIT - BTW your BU:GU on the recipe works out to more like .83  (ie., 61.7/74)

[denny]

Strictly my tastes, but I don't care for Magnum bittering in an IPA.  Too mellow.  I prefer a bit more of a slap.

[HoosierBrew]

Yep, Chinook or Columbus for me.

[69franx]

Yep, Chinook or Columbus for me.

Thanks so fr for the help, was really wondering about BU/GU ratio, using BJCP guidelines for IBU and OG, its a really wide spread, had no idea where to be.
Have to pick up yeast still, so am going to try out Chinook for the FWH and add in flameout Cascade and Amarillo.
Mash temps suggestions and body style recs: have beersmiith set to light body single step batch sparge, and it gives me 75 minutes at 148? but in body of recipe it says 60 minute mash, does the 75 include getting to temp?

[morticaixavier]

Yep, Chinook or Columbus for me.

Thanks so fr for the help, was really wondering about BU/GU ratio, using BJCP guidelines for IBU and OG, its a really wide spread, had no idea where to be.
Have to pick up yeast still, so am going to try out Chinook for the FWH and add in flameout Cascade and Amarillo.
Mash temps suggestions and body style recs: have beersmiith set to light body single step batch sparge, and it gives me 75 minutes at 148? but in body of recipe it says 60 minute mash, does the 75 include getting to temp?

not sure what you mean by in the body of the recipe but at a 148 mash temp you will want at least 75 minutes at temp.

On the yeast nutrient, I would just add it to the boil. seems like an unnecessary 'messing' with the beer to add it at 3 days. This is not such a huge beer that it's going to need a boost at three days.

[69franx]

Never mind the time discepancies, was looking at another recipe I had in there . And thanks for the tip on nutrient, was just the default in beersmith I guess. Will add at 15 left in boil?

[69franx]

Is light body appropriate for IPA? BJCP lists "light medium to medium body" so I guess my question is, is 148 the temp I want, or higher less time? I can do either...

[morticaixavier]

15 min left is fine for the nutrient.

148 will give you a nice crisp dry finish which goes well with a west coast style IPA. I personally don't see a huge difference in fermentability until you get up above 155 at which point I get a bit more malty sweet/richness. It's really a matter of personal preference.

[69franx]

15 min left is fine for the nutrient.

148 will give you a nice crisp dry finish which goes well with a west coast style IPA. I personally don't see a huge difference in fermentability until you get up above 155 at which point I get a bit more malty sweet/richness. It's really a matter of personal preference.

Thanks Jonathan, 148 for 75 it is.

[69franx]

Recipe now stands at:
10# 2 Row
2# Munich
1# Victory(already mixed in with Munich, cant change)
1 oz Chinook FWH
1 tsp each nutrient and Irish Moss @ 15
1 oz each Amarillo and Cascade @ 5 minute and flameout
2.5L starter of WLP 001
2 Stage dry hop of 1 oz each Amarillo and Cascade for 3 days each stage
Thanks for all the input everyone

[morticaixavier]

only other thing is to make sure you send me a bottle when it's done 

[fmader]

Looks good! I agree with Denny and John with more of a punching bittering hop like chinook or Columbus. But in my opinion, first wort hops don't pack the backbone that I like to bitter an IPA. That being said, i love the flavor that they add. I use them in conjunction with a 60 minute hop. But it's all what you want in an IPA. I use a lot of hops.... 10-12 oz in the kettle usually. Most might say that's overkill.

[blatz]

I use a lot of hops.... 10-12 oz in the kettle usually. Most might say that's overkill.

nah - I just used (if you include the forthcoming dryhops to be added in 10 days) 38oz in a 12gal batch of IIPA.  i'd say you're right on!