[skyler]

Now that I keg, I have gotten more interested in working to get my beers *very* clear. Of course I fine with whirlfloc and I do a 90 min boil. I don't own a counterflow chiller or a plate chiller, and I don't expect to buy one real soon, and my kettle is such that whirlpooling isn't really a viable option (eventually I will ket a keggle, but not until I have a back yard to brew in). I have looked to post-fermentation fining, cold crashing (sometimes I lager my ales for a month at 32F before kegging, but this doesn't work if I dry-hop).

My girlfriend is vegetarian, as are many of my friends. As such, I can't use any finings that are made from dead animals, like gelatin. It seems like Polyclar is the only non-animal post-fermentation fining that is commonly used by homebrewers, but the version sold at my LHBS appears to have incorrect instructions. For a 5 gallon batch, how much should I add, and when. My instructions say 2 tsp disolved in a pint. Is that right? I have been told that it is 2oz (or the whole package) that needs to be disolved, and that boiled water is fine to use. Before I try this again (presumably when I keg my next batch), I would like to get my method down.

Also, let me know if these facts are true:

1. Polyclar requires I force carb (not a problem)
2. I need to wait 2 weeks after adding the polyclar to start drinking the beer
3. My first pint or two will be filled with plastic and trub-like gunk
4. If I use too much, Polyclar strips good flavor from my beer
5. I can still keg-hop when I use polyclar
6. The beer or water I use for the Polyclar to dissolve into before I put it in my beer needs to be room temperature

Thanks ahead of time.

[dak0415]

Skyler,
I have been using polyclar for some time now and this is what I've found.

PC will pull yeast down with it so you would need to add yeast to bottle condition.
PC works best with cold beer. 32deg/F or less (I like 29deg)
PC "dissolves" best in 140deg/F water, then let it sit for a while.  I use 1 tbs for 5 gallons dissolved in 2 oz of sterile water.
It will strip color and some flavor from red wine and beer if you use too much (Like the whole 2oz package).
Once the beer is in the keg you're good to hop, but you may get additional haze from the hop oils.

Here's what I do
After 1 week in secondary (or when its done), cold crash for a week (29 deg/F) to drop as much of the yeast and haze out as possible.
Add polyclar, mixing gently (don't splash).
Wait at least 3 days, longer can't hurt.
Rack to keg being careful not to get much of the lees into the keg.
Or wait 1 hr then filter.
Force carb as usual.
Wait 24 hrs, allowing temp to rise to serving temp, then draw a pint and toss.
You should have clear beer after that.

Dave

[skyler]

Thanks, I will try that on the next beer that I want to get clear (an ESB I'm planning on brewing on Saturday).

[1vertical]

Last time I used poly clar, I also needed to make an addition
of water and dry hop  a beer that was too high in FG.  I made the poly clar mix
with distilled water in a Cornie Keg, then carbonated the water/fining agent
to remove oxygen from the water added the hop ball, Then racked the
hazy pilsner into that keg.  Samples now showing hop ghosties floating around
but the haze is GONE, and the beer tastes great.

so just sayin you may want to get "the carbonator" and mix your poly clar in
a vessel that will allow you to carb it up before you add anything (O2) to your beer.