[blatz]

1). Is the three roller really better than the two if you're malt conditioning?

2). Why get the 1/2" chuck upgrade?

3). I have a pretty powerful Dewalt cordless. My electric/corded drill used to smoke when I used it on a BC. The MM people state a corded drill is needed, but do you think I can use the former (Dewalt cordless)?

Thanks.

[MrNate]

I use my DeWalt cordless on my 2-roller Monster mill, seems to work out fine. I did strip down the triangular flats on the 3/8" drive shaft because I didn't chuck it properly once or twice. The 1/2" shaft option is for motorizing - there's no bushing or coupling that I could find that would fit that 3/8" shaft with the 3 flats other than a drill chuck. You can't just replace the shaft, either; it's part of the roller. If you think you'll want to motorize with anything other than the drill, get the 1/2" shaft right away.

[majorvices]

I have the MM 3 2.0 and I tried malt conditioning on it once and it was really difficult and IMO totally not worth the extra effort. Not sure if it would work better on the smaller mill or not. I suppose if I had an extremely powerful motor it wouldn't be a problem. As it is I have a fairly powerful hammer drill.

[MrNate]

Oh, I missed the malt conditioning part. I don't condition.

[blatz]

I talked with the fella at MM and while he's not tried malt conditioning before, he's familiar with it and he actually recommended I go with the 2 roller to prevent any gumming/jamming up. 

Its funny, I walked him through my problems with the BC and he gave me suggestions on how to fix it (though I've tried them all already) - nice guy, definitely getting my business. 

In my discussion with him, I think its that I may have actually wore my rollers down over the years.  I'm gonna try taking it apart once last time, lube it and see what I see.

[gtoothaker]

I have a 3 roller monster mill with a fly wheel and motor mount to drive it. 

I conditioned malt for the first time last weekend and had really good results.  Luckily when I built the hopper for my mill, I built in a shield above the top mill opening allowing me to control the amount of malt that goes through the mill at once.  I have never needed to govern the amount of malt going into the mill, but once I added conditioned pilsner malt (.3 oz H20per #) my mill got jammed.  I shut off the power to the motor and freed the jam.  I closed the opening to about an inch and a half and was able to mill successfully (5 #s).  I noticed quite a difference in the size of the husk after milling. Thanks for the conditioning advice Kaiser...

The conditioned malt definitely takes more umph from either the hand crank, drill or motor.  I found that reducing the amount of grain that goes in to solve the problem.  Based on results from conditioning, I will continue the practice.   

My grain 'governor' is nothing more than some sheet metal cut to size to cover the mill opening.  I left 1/16" opening on a narrow side where my hopper attaches to the face plate I built for the top of the mill.  I am able to slide this cover over the mill opening.  This makes it easy to cover or adjust the amount of malt that goes into the mill at once.

I can post a picture if that would help.

[babalu87]

Get (or make your mill) a gear drive, you wont regret it

[resto3]

Can someone discribe the process of conditioning grain for me?  And why do this?  I am unfamiliar to this proceedure.  Thanks!!

Richie

[a10t2]

Can someone discribe the process of conditioning grain for me?  And why do this?  I am unfamiliar to this proceedure.  Thanks!!

Kai's is probably the easiest way: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Malt_Conditioning

He wrote an article in the last issue of Zymurgy, and there was one in BYO a couple months ago.

[resto3]

good article, many thanks!!!

[IHBHS]

The MM we have in the HBS has been nothing but trouble.  First the loose roller kept binding so we had our machinist replace the bushings with sealed roller bearings.  Then the crush roller was too close so we had to make new eccentrics for it to adjust it looser.  Now since there are no side plates on it it twists and binds on us a bid, so we're gonna add side plates and gear drive the driven and loose roller so that it wont bind up.  Yeah, what a pain in the...  I had it apart today because the loose roller bound up again and needed cleaning out.

[majorvices]

The MM we have in the HBS has been nothing but trouble.  First the loose roller kept binding so we had our machinist replace the bushings with sealed roller bearings.  Then the crush roller was too close so we had to make new eccentrics for it to adjust it looser.  Now since there are no side plates on it it twists and binds on us a bid, so we're gonna add side plates and gear drive the driven and loose roller so that it wont bind up.  Yeah, what a pain in the...  I had it apart today because the loose roller bound up again and needed cleaning out.

Have you bothered contacting the manufacturer? First off they have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Second, if the shop made their own base and it is not EXACTLY square it will bind EVERY time. Give them a shout, the dude who machines them is extremely helpful.