[HoosierBrew]

though that said, I never fine dry hopped beers.

Yeah, I used to fine dry hopped beer and add extra hops, but I'm over it. My pH is good and the beers clear out quickly anyway. I mostly fine lagers, cream ale, etc. - stuff that anybody would expect to be crystal clear.

[bboy9000]

One of the most important steps in getting clear beer is nailing your ph and getting a good hot break. Also, though perhaps less important, chilling fast enough to get a good cold break. If your pH is off you may never see really clear beer unless you age it for a very long time.

^That is probably the key.  I've had clear beer those times I forgot to add whirlfloc.  Even the most cloudy beers have cleared in a week or two without finings.

[markpotts]

One thing not mentioned in the thread is ensuring sufficient calcium is present. This is important for yeast flocculation.
I use two products when clarity is important to me....first I cool the beer to as close to zero centigrade as I can get; I then add a product called auxiliary finings and then 24 hours later a product called CellarBrite (which I think is pre-prepared isinglass). I'm UK based btw.
Even with all this I find highly hopped beers are still somewhat hazy.

[ILoveStouts]

Why putting animal stuff in the beer like gelatin or isinglass? Or polymer derivated like PVPP? For me that is a bit disgusting, especially when we know what is gelatin made of...

Has anyone used Biofine? If so, any comments would be appreciated.

So far I'm cold crashing as close to 0 degrees Celsius (Frozen temp for americans) as I can for about 4 days and it works well.

It's cheaper and more natural! And give time and stable condition to your bottled beer too!

[majorvices]

Why putting animal stuff in the beer like gelatin or isinglass? Or polymer derivated like PVPP? For me that is a bit disgusting, especially when we know what is gelatin made of...

Has anyone used Biofine? If so, any comments would be appreciated.

So far I'm cold crashing as close to 0 degrees Celsius (Frozen temp for americans) as I can for about 4 days and it works well.

It's cheaper and more natural! And give time and stable condition to your bottled beer too!

I posted at length about biofine early in this topic.

Also, time and cold temps don't work as well for every yeast. Some belgian and lager strains in particular take lots of time to clear. Fining is a great way to get the yeast to drop out of suspension.

The fact that we use animal hoofs for gelatin doesn't bother me. It's a great way to try to use as much of the animal as possible. Same with swim bladders.

Beaver anal glands on the other hand ....

[JT]

I've never used anything beyond Irish moss in the boil.  So far, every beer clears just excellent after x amount of time in the keg. 
Edit: I'm also not opposed to it.  Just haven't found it necessary for my beers thus far.

[jjflash]

I have played with the Buon Vino Super Jet filter for the past few years with my beer.  I prefer this filter as I can select the appropriate filter pad - coarse, polishing or sterile.  I have experimented with everything from my Belgian Triples to Imperial Stouts.  I also recommend Whirfloc and Biofine Clear or similar products.  They all work.  They drop most of the crud out, without filtering.

So do the filters really work?  Yes, and quite well if you select the proper pad density.  Do you need it?  Only if you have to quickly produce a beer and need to quickly put it on tap.  I have found they really do not "strip out" to any significant degree flavor and aroma. I produce only big beers.  I find that I prefer to let them sit for several months to properly mature.  At the point they become drinkable, then I can transfer from keg to keg and rack off the remaining sediment.  Turns out to be less work than filtering, tho not quite as crystal clear, close enough and acceptable. Also less air exposure for oxidation.   If I had to rush these beers to public consumption, I would then filter. 

Now if I produced IPA's (which I haven't done in 10 years), I might be tempted to filter them just to get them crystal clear and on tap ASAP before the hops fizzle out.       

[klickitat jim]

I have played with the Buon Vino Super Jet filter for the past few years with my beer.  I prefer this filter as I can select the appropriate filter pad - coarse, polishing or sterile.  I have experimented with everything from my Belgian Triples to Imperial Stouts.  I also recommend Whirfloc and Biofine Clear or similar products.  They all work.  They drop most of the crud out, without filtering.

So do the filters really work?  Yes, and quite well if you select the proper pad density.  Do you need it?  Only if you have to quickly produce a beer and need to quickly put it on tap.  I have found they really do not "strip out" to any significant degree flavor and aroma. I produce only big beers.  I find that I prefer to let them sit for several months to properly mature.  At the point they become drinkable, then I can transfer from keg to keg and rack off the remaining sediment.  Turns out to be less work than filtering, tho not quite as crystal clear, close enough and acceptable. Also less air exposure for oxidation.   If I had to rush these beers to public consumption, I would then filter. 

Now if I produced IPA's (which I haven't done in 10 years), I might be tempted to filter them just to get them crystal clear and on tap ASAP before the hops fizzle out.     

More about selecting filters please

[majorvices]

. 

Now if I produced IPA's (which I haven't done in 10 years), I might be tempted to filter them just to get them crystal clear and on tap ASAP before the hops fizzle out.     

That's kind of the kicker - filtering or fining IPAs will remove some of the hop aroma. Best to just drink them hazy.

[HoosierBrew]

That's kind of the kicker - filtering or fining IPAs will remove some of the hop aroma. Best to just drink them hazy.

Yep.

[Rattlesnake44]

No kettle finings, no keg finings. Cold crashed for 48 hours ish, then racked to the keg where it was kept at 41F for another 4 days. Couldn't help myself and had to try it. This is my Arrogant Bastard clone. Taste is pretty spot on even though I didn't get to try the Dry English yeast recommended and went with WLP 001 instead.
Not too hazy, doesn't really bother me. But if I was serving to friends and family I'd like it to be more clear I guess. I'm going to try either Whirlfloc or even gelatin in the keg on my next batch I think.
Thank you for all the info guys!
Cheers.

[Wort-H.O.G.]

No kettle finings, no keg finings. Cold crashed for 48 hours ish, then racked to the keg where it was kept at 41F for another 4 days. Couldn't help myself and had to try it. This is my Arrogant Bastard clone. Taste is pretty spot on even though I didn't get to try the Dry English yeast recommended and went with WLP 001 instead.
Not too hazy, doesn't really bother me. But if I was serving to friends and family I'd like it to be more clear I guess. I'm going to try either Whirlfloc or even gelatin in the keg on my next batch I think.
Thank you for all the info guys!
Cheers.

looks good. what did you use for that color?

[Rattlesnake44]

1.5 lbs of Special B gave it a nice reddish brown glow.

[HoosierBrew]

1.5 lbs of Special B gave it a nice reddish brown glow.

Basically the same recipe I use.  Good stuff.  Looks nice !

[Wort-H.O.G.]

i like the looks of the recipe. i'd like to give it a shot with wlp007 and finish up 1.010ish range and see how that comes off.