[HoosierBrew]

Great looking pictures, Keith. And I like IPAs best that look like that, too. But that kolsch pic is just crazy -  I want a large quantity of that.

[majorvices]

One of the most important steps in getting clear beer is nailing your ph and getting a good hot break. Also, though perhaps less important, chilling fast enough to get a good cold break. If your pH is off you may never see really clear beer unless you age it for a very long time.

I do not filter but I do use kettle finings (whirlflock or irish moss) and tank finings. I really like BioFine clear. It works really fast and leaves the beer very bright in about 48 hours. If you find your "sweet spot" it doesn't strip too much aroma out of your beers, though that said, I never fine dry hopped beers.

In my case I run a brewery and I can attest that usually I fine with about 500 mil per 30 bbls in the primary fermentor after a week of cold crashing and in about 48 hours I can rack clear beer to the BBT. Occasionally I may have to find again in the BBT but usually it is not necessary. The key is to be sure it is mixed with the beer needed fined thoroughly.

Just curious how you mix 500ml of biofine in your fermenter. What I do is have biofine in my BBT and then I transfer from the fermenter to the BBT. I also use whirlfloc in my kettle also get good hot break, it looks like cottage cheese floating in the boil kettle.

First harvest and dump yeast.  Take a clean, sani and purged 1/4 bbl keg. Take a keg filler and open the keg and pour biofine in the opening. Then, after beer is cold (I lager in FV for at least a week) attach keg via the racking port. Fil keg till about 3/4 full with beer off FV. Shake, then with a pressure of about 30 psi and racking arm pointed UP blow the keg beer/biofine solution back into the fermentor. After it is all blown up close port, recharge keg to 30 psi and open port again to blow large bubbles into FV. Repeast at least once more. In 48 hours you beer will be almost crystal clear. Sometime I have to fine again in BBT.

[majorvices]

Great looking pictures, Keith. And I like IPAs best that look like that, too. But that kolsch pic is just crazy -  I want a large quantity of that.

Thanks. 1st two were Yellowhammer beers (Rebellion and IPA) but the last is Homebrew fined with a little gelatin. Lagered for only 10 days.

[boulderbrewer]

One of the most important steps in getting clear beer is nailing your ph and getting a good hot break. Also, though perhaps less important, chilling fast enough to get a good cold break. If your pH is off you may never see really clear beer unless you age it for a very long time.

I do not filter but I do use kettle finings (whirlflock or irish moss) and tank finings. I really like BioFine clear. It works really fast and leaves the beer very bright in about 48 hours. If you find your "sweet spot" it doesn't strip too much aroma out of your beers, though that said, I never fine dry hopped beers.

In my case I run a brewery and I can attest that usually I fine with about 500 mil per 30 bbls in the primary fermentor after a week of cold crashing and in about 48 hours I can rack clear beer to the BBT. Occasionally I may have to find again in the BBT but usually it is not necessary. The key is to be sure it is mixed with the beer needed fined thoroughly.

Just curious how you mix 500ml of biofine in your fermenter. What I do is have biofine in my BBT and then I transfer from the fermenter to the BBT. I also use whirlfloc in my kettle also get good hot break, it looks like cottage cheese floating in the boil kettle.

First harvest and dump yeast.  Take a clean, sani and purged 1/4 bbl keg. Take a keg filler and open the keg and pour biofine in the opening. Then, after beer is cold (I lager in FV for at least a week) attach keg via the racking port. Fil keg till about 3/4 full with beer off FV. Shake, then with a pressure of about 30 psi and racking arm pointed UP blow the keg beer/biofine solution back into the fermentor. After it is all blown up close port, recharge keg to 30 psi and open port again to blow large bubbles into FV. Repeast at least once more. In 48 hours you beer will be almost crystal clear. Sometime I have to fine again in BBT.

Good to know. Thanks!

[majorvices]

One of the most important steps in getting clear beer is nailing your ph and getting a good hot break. Also, though perhaps less important, chilling fast enough to get a good cold break. If your pH is off you may never see really clear beer unless you age it for a very long time.

I do not filter but I do use kettle finings (whirlflock or irish moss) and tank finings. I really like BioFine clear. It works really fast and leaves the beer very bright in about 48 hours. If you find your "sweet spot" it doesn't strip too much aroma out of your beers, though that said, I never fine dry hopped beers.

In my case I run a brewery and I can attest that usually I fine with about 500 mil per 30 bbls in the primary fermentor after a week of cold crashing and in about 48 hours I can rack clear beer to the BBT. Occasionally I may have to find again in the BBT but usually it is not necessary. The key is to be sure it is mixed with the beer needed fined thoroughly.

Just curious how you mix 500ml of biofine in your fermenter. What I do is have biofine in my BBT and then I transfer from the fermenter to the BBT. I also use whirlfloc in my kettle also get good hot break, it looks like cottage cheese floating in the boil kettle.

First harvest and dump yeast.  Take a clean, sani and purged 1/4 bbl keg. Take a keg filler and open the keg and pour biofine in the opening. Then, after beer is cold (I lager in FV for at least a week) attach keg via the racking port. Fil keg till about 3/4 full with beer off FV. Shake, then with a pressure of about 30 psi and racking arm pointed UP blow the keg beer/biofine solution back into the fermentor. After it is all blown up close port, recharge keg to 30 psi and open port again to blow large bubbles into FV. Repeast at least once more. In 48 hours you beer will be almost crystal clear. Sometime I have to fine again in BBT.

Good to know. Thanks!

BTW you may need more or less Biofine depenidng on your yeast.

[boulderbrewer]

Yep, I started low and worked my way up to get where I want. Now if I could get wort to ferment in one day and clear so I can carb the next day and package the third day. 

[curtism1234]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was getting ready to use gelatin for the first time to try to clear my tripel. I think I'll hold off on that and try it on a different style.

[majorvices]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was getting ready to use gelatin for the first time to try to clear my tripel. I think I'll hold off on that and try it on a different style.

Just curious, why? I think gelatin is the perfect thing to try to clear a triple. Belgian yeasts are often difficult to clear without fining.

[Thirsty_Monk]

Yep, I started low and worked my way up to get where I want. Now if I could get wort to ferment in one day and clear so I can carb the next day and package the third day. 

Are you talking root beer?

[Thirsty_Monk]

One of the most important steps in getting clear beer is nailing your ph and getting a good hot break. Also, though perhaps less important, chilling fast enough to get a good cold break. If your pH is off you may never see really clear beer unless you age it for a very long time.

I do not filter but I do use kettle finings (whirlflock or irish moss) and tank finings. I really like BioFine clear. It works really fast and leaves the beer very bright in about 48 hours. If you find your "sweet spot" it doesn't strip too much aroma out of your beers, though that said, I never fine dry hopped beers.

In my case I run a brewery and I can attest that usually I fine with about 500 mil per 30 bbls in the primary fermentor after a week of cold crashing and in about 48 hours I can rack clear beer to the BBT. Occasionally I may have to find again in the BBT but usually it is not necessary. The key is to be sure it is mixed with the beer needed fined thoroughly.

Just curious how you mix 500ml of biofine in your fermenter. What I do is have biofine in my BBT and then I transfer from the fermenter to the BBT. I also use whirlfloc in my kettle also get good hot break, it looks like cottage cheese floating in the boil kettle.

First harvest and dump yeast.  Take a clean, sani and purged 1/4 bbl keg. Take a keg filler and open the keg and pour biofine in the opening. Then, after beer is cold (I lager in FV for at least a week) attach keg via the racking port. Fil keg till about 3/4 full with beer off FV. Shake, then with a pressure of about 30 psi and racking arm pointed UP blow the keg beer/biofine solution back into the fermentor. After it is all blown up close port, recharge keg to 30 psi and open port again to blow large bubbles into FV. Repeast at least once more. In 48 hours you beer will be almost crystal clear. Sometime I have to fine again in BBT.

Thanks for sharing.

[HoosierBrew]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was getting ready to use gelatin for the first time to try to clear my tripel. I think I'll hold off on that and try it on a different style.

Just curious, why? I think gelatin is the perfect thing to try to clear a triple. Belgian yeasts are often difficult to clear without fining.

I bet he's referring to my post on not fining most Belgian beers, Keith. It's just personal preference - I've fined a few Belgians with gelatin and found that it dropped more of the yeast character than I liked, especially saison. I normally use whirlfloc and crash them after fermentation, and call it good.

[majorvices]

I wouldn't fine a saison, but a tripel? You want that to be brilliantly clear and I don't find most belgian strains like to drop brilliantly clear without some help or a lot of age. Personally, I like my tripels very fresh.

[HoosierBrew]

Yep, agreed on tripel.

[curtism1234]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was getting ready to use gelatin for the first time to try to clear my tripel. I think I'll hold off on that and try it on a different style.

Just curious, why? I think gelatin is the perfect thing to try to clear a triple. Belgian yeasts are often difficult to clear without fining.

I bet he's referring to my post on not fining most Belgian beers, Keith. It's just personal preference - I've fined a few Belgians with gelatin and found that it dropped more of the yeast character than I liked, especially saison. I normally use whirlfloc and crash them after fermentation, and call it good.

Yeah, that's what I was referring to. But I see the posts today that say to.

I'll think about it - I was wanting to bottle this weekend. This is the 1st Tripel I've made and the sample I drew last night was very good. If I choose not too, I can always clear the next batch of Tripel and use that as a comparison of both clarity and yeast character. It's a small batch and I'm pretty much the only one who drinks it.

Thanks

[morticaixavier]

I'm glad I read this thread. I was getting ready to use gelatin for the first time to try to clear my tripel. I think I'll hold off on that and try it on a different style.

Just curious, why? I think gelatin is the perfect thing to try to clear a triple. Belgian yeasts are often difficult to clear without fining.

I bet he's referring to my post on not fining most Belgian beers, Keith. It's just personal preference - I've fined a few Belgians with gelatin and found that it dropped more of the yeast character than I liked, especially saison. I normally use whirlfloc and crash them after fermentation, and call it good.

Yeah, that's what I was referring to. But I see the posts today that say to.

I'll think about it - I was wanting to bottle this weekend. This is the 1st Tripel I've made and the sample I drew last night was very good. If I choose not too, I can always clear the next batch of Tripel and use that as a comparison of both clarity and yeast character. It's a small batch and I'm pretty much the only one who drinks it.

Thanks

you can still bottle. it will clarify with time in the bottle just as well as in the bucket, quicker even as there is less distance for the haze to fall.