[pete b]

380 American, 300 german.

?

[pete b]

You definitely don't need any foam enhancers with wheat malt. Rather than a decocotion you might try doughing in at 111 for a ferulic acid rest for 20 min especially if you like clove"y" character. It's not a "must do" step, but I think it may add more than a decocotion.

Personal preference for me but I prefer 150-152 sac rest for mine. I don't think you will find the beer suffer5s from any lack of body by doughing in at 150 and I think you may find the beer a bit more quaffable doing your sac rest at that temp.

My personal favorite wheat beer yeast is WLP380 hefeweizen IV. It gives a nice balance of clove and banana. If you are more interested in clove, as my personal preference is, start the fermentation at as low as 58 degrees (you are best off doing a starter) and after 48 hours of that temp raise to 64 for a few days then finish out at 68. If banana is more you deal start out at 64 for 48 hours. Fermenting higher than this could result in an unbalanced "banana bomb", which I personally don't care for. I like the balance of spicy phenolics to blend with the banana"y" isoamyl acetate.

I do prefer the clove and only like the banana when its balanced. I was reading about the ferulic acid rest and might try it. I'm brewing it tonight so the yeast is not a choice this time but I'll definitely be brewing more Wheaties.

[pete b]

60-65% wheat and or dark wheat, Munich , melanoidin make up rest. I prefer the malty Dunkelweizen over hefeweizen. 380 American, 300 german.

Dunkelweizen is definitely on the docket.

[pete b]

You definitely don't need any foam enhancers with wheat malt.

This is a good example of how we learn. I bet I've read that a dozen times but since I haven't done much brewing with wheat it hasn't stuck. I bet I never forget now. In fact tomorrow I'll probably reply to another poster how you don't need a head enhancer with wheat beers as if I've known that forever.

[Wort-H.O.G.]

380 American, 300 german.

?

white labs yeast. They're both German yeast; fingers and brain not working together this early. 320 is the American version. I prefer 300 just because I can balance out the clove and banana as I like. 380 is really all clove dominant.


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[pete b]

380 American, 300 german.

?

white labs yeast
Gotcha, didn't click. I'd say that it looked like a cricket score except that those are two countries with the good sense not to play cricket.


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[euge]

I like traditional hefeweizens so prefer the German style route. My malt bill is 30% pils and 70% wheat malt. Noble hops. Decoction and a 90 minute boil. In a pinch WB-06 over Munich dry yeast but only because I get too much phenolic character from the Munich. Stick to liquid yeast. Plan on drinking it young for best results IMO.

[reverseapachemaster]

If you want something more substantial a wheatwine is an option.

[pete b]

I like traditional hefeweizens so prefer the German style route. My malt bill is 30% pils and 70% wheat malt. Noble hops. Decoction and a 90 minute boil. In a pinch WB-06 over Munich dry yeast but only because I get too much phenolic character from the Munich. Stick to liquid yeast. Plan on drinking it young for best results IMO.

I am very skilled at drinking my beer young. Why the long boil for this style? I know pilsner malt has a lot of DMS precursors but I'm doing less than 50% pils. Does the wheat have the same issue?

[pete b]

If you want something more substantial a wheatwine is an option.

Not what I'm looking for now, but someday.

[hopfenundmalz]

380 American, 300 german.

?

white labs yeast. They're both German yeast; fingers and brain not working together this early. 320 is the American version. I prefer 300 just because I can balance out the clove and banana as I like. 380 is really all clove dominant.


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Both German origin, but the 320 is the Zum Uerige altbier yeast that was carried back to Widmer, and after makeing the Widmer Hefe for all those years is very powdery. Not a clove producer, lacking the POF gene. Zum Ueriges yeast is the Wyeast 1007 = WLP-036, which is a very clean top fermenter.

[euge]

I like traditional hefeweizens so prefer the German style route. My malt bill is 30% pils and 70% wheat malt. Noble hops. Decoction and a 90 minute boil. In a pinch WB-06 over Munich dry yeast but only because I get too much phenolic character from the Munich. Stick to liquid yeast. Plan on drinking it young for best results IMO.

I am very skilled at drinking my beer young. Why the long boil for this style? I know pilsner malt has a lot of DMS precursors but I'm doing less than 50% pils. Does the wheat have the same issue?

That is a good question! I don't know. As far as the boil is concerned it could be less but I always wait until I see a good break before I add any first addition of hops. Usually that takes 20-30 minutes for me then I start the clock for the hops.

[rckymtnskibum]

First post, but I have been stalking the forums for a little time, but I wanted to ask about everyone's take of adding rice hulls to the mash? I know most people have mentioned malted wheat, but some have mentioned flaked wheat, so I wanted to pose the question as to what percentage of wheat (flaked or otherwise) that you would consider adding rice hulls to firm up the grain bed?

Second question sorry. For those who have high percentages of wheat in the grain bill are you adding yeast nutrients to your mash/fermentation? I am unclear as to the composition of wheat to barley inregards to FAN, protiens, etc.

I tried a wheat for our first all grain and it was not very good, and that probably caused me to avoid it for a couple years, but I am re-attacking they style because its one of my wife and my favorite summer styles. Thanks for all your help!

[euge]

I don't bother using them- ever.

[brewerbrandon]

I do 60/40 Pilsen and white wheat. I really like 3068. I also like a ferulic acid rest at 111 for a really pronounce banana/ cllove flavor and aroma.