[S. cerevisiae]

Does anyone own an Ss Brew Tech Brewbucket?  I am wondering how difficult it is to sanitize the valve assembly.

[rabeb25]

I have a few, no issues for me... but I am guessing you may have issues 

[narcout]

I have one as well (the version with the thermowell) and have had no issues sanitizing the valve assembly. 

I soak it in an Iodophor solution while opening/closing the valve a few times prior to filling the fermentor with wort.  When it's time to rack to the serving keg, I spray Iodophor solution up into the valve and all around the valve exterior.  I think I've run about 10 batches through it so far.

I have never done it, but I understand that the valve can also be fully disassembled for cleaning if desired (someone posted pictures of this on another forum).  It can also be boiled.

Given what you have stated in other threads, I don't think you actually care about this, but here's a thread I started that shows how to rig up a gas post to a drilled stopper so that one do a closed loop transfer into a CO2 purged keg.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=20241.0

The o-rings that are used to attach the racking arm to the inside of the ball valve are small and pretty fragile.  You may want to order some extras right off the bat (you can probably get a bag of 100 of them from McMaster Carr for less than you can buy a replacement set from the manufacturer).  My experience has been that if you direct the initial runoff into a collection jar it will start to run clear right after you get enough for a hydrometer reading.  It can then be re-directed into the serving keg without the need to ever rotate the valve/racking arm assembly out of the trub.

I'm happy with the fermentor and would buy it again. 

[S. cerevisiae]

Thanks for sharing your experience with the Brewbucket.  I have avoided fermentation vessels (FV) with non-sanitary valves due to the difficulty of keeping them clean.  However, it appears that Ss Brew Tech has thought this design through.

By the way, I am not anti-purge.  It's just that I believe home brewers are too paranoid about O₂ pickup when racking from a primary FV.

[brulosopher]

By the way, I am not anti-purge.  It's just that I believe home brewers are too paranoid about O₂ pickup when racking from a primary FV.

Amen!!

My concern with metal FVs is their weight, PET carboys and plastic buckets are light enough for my fat ass to move in/out of chest freezers.

[toby]

By the way, I am not anti-purge.  It's just that I believe home brewers are too paranoid about O₂ pickup when racking from a primary FV.

Amen!!

My concern with metal FVs is their weight, PET carboys and plastic buckets are light enough for my fat ass to move in/out of chest freezers.

At my age, the concern is more the weight distribution than the raw weight (and being able to maintain proper lifting technique so I don't throw out my back).  Currently that's just easier with better bottles and brew haulers.  I am looking forward to the day I can engineer a workable conical setup that can be managed with pumps.  Have a few other upgrades to budget before that though.

[beersk]

By the way, I am not anti-purge.  It's just that I believe home brewers are too paranoid about O₂ pickup when racking from a primary FV.

Amen!!

My concern with metal FVs is their weight, PET carboys and plastic buckets are light enough for my fat ass to move in/out of chest freezers.

Yeah, ya fatty...

I've been using a plastic bucket again lately. I still enjoy fermenting in cornie kegs though. If I were a full 5 gallon batch brewer, I think I'd invest in some 10 gallon cornie kegs and ferment in those. Heavy, sure, but moving beer under co2 pressure is the shiznit.

[narcout]

If I were a full 5 gallon batch brewer, I think I'd invest in some 10 gallon cornie kegs and ferment in those. Heavy, sure, but moving beer under co2 pressure is the shiznit.

The only issue I've had fermenting in 10 gallon cornie kegs is that the liquid out dip tube can get clogged if there is too much hop material in the fermentor.  I bought an extra liquid out tube and cut a half inch off it, but I switched to the brew bucket before I even tried it out.

The only other downside is that they are kind of difficult to clean.  I've been meaning to put one or both of them back in service, but they're pretty dirty and I just haven't had the motivation to clean them. 

[beersk]

If I were a full 5 gallon batch brewer, I think I'd invest in some 10 gallon cornie kegs and ferment in those. Heavy, sure, but moving beer under co2 pressure is the shiznit.

The only issue I've had fermenting in 10 gallon cornie kegs is that the liquid out dip tube can get clogged if there is too much hop material in the fermentor.  I bought an extra liquid out tube and cut a half inch off it, but I switched to the brew bucket before I even tried it out.

The only other downside is that they are kind of difficult to clean.  I've been meaning to put one or both of them back in service, but they're pretty dirty and I just haven't had the motivation to clean them. 

Well, you need to bend the diptube up so it gives you a 1/2 gallon or so of dead space. This is what I did with my 5 gallon keg fermenters. They are a pain to clean, this is true. The bucket I've been using is nice, but I need to be really careful when cleaning so as to not scratch it, even the slightest. That makes me nervous. And the lid is a pain to get off, even with a tool. It sucks back sanitizer from the air lock when pushing down on the lid. That's annoying.
Need a 10 gallon keg! Plus it's so easy to take a gravity reading, pressurize, and not have to ever worry about oxidation. I love that about fermenting in kegs. Lessens my stress level.

[beersk]

I have one as well (the version with the thermowell) and have had no issues sanitizing the valve assembly. 

I soak it in an Iodophor solution while opening/closing the valve a few times prior to filling the fermentor with wort.  When it's time to rack to the serving keg, I spray Iodophor solution up into the valve and all around the valve exterior.  I think I've run about 10 batches through it so far.

I have never done it, but I understand that the valve can also be fully disassembled for cleaning if desired (someone posted pictures of this on another forum).  It can also be boiled.

Given what you have stated in other threads, I don't think you actually care about this, but here's a thread I started that shows how to rig up a gas post to a drilled stopper so that one do a closed loop transfer into a CO2 purged keg.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=20241.0

The o-rings that are used to attach the racking arm to the inside of the ball valve are small and pretty fragile.  You may want to order some extras right off the bat (you can probably get a bag of 100 of them from McMaster Carr for less than you can buy a replacement set from the manufacturer).  My experience has been that if you direct the initial runoff into a collection jar it will start to run clear right after you get enough for a hydrometer reading.  It can then be re-directed into the serving keg without the need to ever rotate the valve/racking arm assembly out of the trub.

I'm happy with the fermentor and would buy it again. 

Damn, I missed this. That's awesome that the closed loop works. The gas from the keg releases into the fermenter which pushes the beer into the keg. Great idea.

[andrhamm]

The o-rings that are used to attach the racking arm to the inside of the ball valve are small and pretty fragile.  You may want to order some extras right off the bat (you can probably get a bag of 100 of them from McMaster Carr for less than you can buy a replacement set from the manufacturer).

Do you happen to know the part number for those replacement O-rings? Thanks

[BairsBrewing]

I have one and I love it.  Also had issues with the o-rings and they sent me out some replacements as well as some new ones that they are testing.  They also sent me some replacements for the racking arm, all at no cost, and responded to my email only 30 minutes after sending it; on a Sunday!  Definitely a great product, very easy to clean and sanitize.  Follow the instructions for preparation of the vessel to the letter. I've done three batches so far and plan to buy a second as soon as possible.  Just remember to remove the airlock if you are taking a gravity sample or you will suck in your airlock water.

[narcout]

Do you happen to know the part number for those replacement O-rings? Thanks

I'm sorry; I don't (ended up just ordering some replacements from the manufacturer).  They are 8.5 mm x 1 mm Buna N 70 0-rings if that helps.  I've also found that I only need to use one even though the racking arm has grooves for two.

Also had issues with the o-rings and they sent me out some replacements as well as some new ones that they are testing.  They also sent me some replacements for the racking arm, all at no cost, and responded to my email only 30 minutes after sending it; on a Sunday!

My experience with their customer service was also very positive.

[BairsBrewing]

I also only use the larger o-ring on the outside and not the inside, even with the different o-rings they still pinch out from under the nut. So far no scoring on the inside, mainly because the nut is quite smooth.

[narcout]

I recently ordered new silicone feet for my brewbucket (the feet they use now are of a better quality than the ones that came with the older brewbuckets), and they included a free lid blow off barb. 

The feet I ordered cost $6.95, and the part they threw in for free sells for $17.50 on their website.

Every interaction I've had with this company has been awesome, and this isn't the first time I've received something extra with my order.