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Quote from: ynotbrusum on July 28, 2015, 01:36:12 pmI batch sparge for all the reasons stated above. As to setting the grain bed, I use a little rice hulls and a fairly fine crush, then I run off slowly while vorlaufing. Probably just under 50% flow rate. Then when it looks reasonably clear I start collecting pretty close to wide open. Then I put a double strainer on top of my boil kettle and pour the wort through it to catch any husks that might have gotten through. I check my late runnings and they are always above 1.15 or so, so I assume the best as to astringency and pH....YMMV, of course.1.015 is what I think you meant.
I batch sparge for all the reasons stated above. As to setting the grain bed, I use a little rice hulls and a fairly fine crush, then I run off slowly while vorlaufing. Probably just under 50% flow rate. Then when it looks reasonably clear I start collecting pretty close to wide open. Then I put a double strainer on top of my boil kettle and pour the wort through it to catch any husks that might have gotten through. I check my late runnings and they are always above 1.15 or so, so I assume the best as to astringency and pH....YMMV, of course.
Hey gents. I'm new to the forum and wanted to add my input. My experience is almost entirely from what I learned working in the two man, 15 BBL brewery Huske Hardware House in Fayetteville NC. With that said I joined this forum to learn from some experienced home brewers as I jump into the hobby. In our brew house we never allowed the sparge to soak. Perhaps it's my lack of experience but this is actually the first I have heard about it. We also never performed iodine tests. Keep in mind our brew conditions and ingredients never changed. It may take a lot of the intricate science out of brewing when I say this but we would only sparge long enough to hit our target volume in the kettle and be done with it. The end result was always fantastic award winning beer. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Quote from: isaacpball on August 03, 2015, 05:22:41 amHey gents. I'm new to the forum and wanted to add my input. My experience is almost entirely from what I learned working in the two man, 15 BBL brewery Huske Hardware House in Fayetteville NC. With that said I joined this forum to learn from some experienced home brewers as I jump into the hobby. In our brew house we never allowed the sparge to soak. Perhaps it's my lack of experience but this is actually the first I have heard about it. We also never performed iodine tests. Keep in mind our brew conditions and ingredients never changed. It may take a lot of the intricate science out of brewing when I say this but we would only sparge long enough to hit our target volume in the kettle and be done with it. The end result was always fantastic award winning beer. Sent from my SCH-I545 using TapatalkSounds like you're talking about fly sparging, a different process.
Quote from: denny on August 03, 2015, 09:32:54 amQuote from: isaacpball on August 03, 2015, 05:22:41 amHey gents. I'm new to the forum and wanted to add my input. My experience is almost entirely from what I learned working in the two man, 15 BBL brewery Huske Hardware House in Fayetteville NC. With that said I joined this forum to learn from some experienced home brewers as I jump into the hobby. In our brew house we never allowed the sparge to soak. Perhaps it's my lack of experience but this is actually the first I have heard about it. We also never performed iodine tests. Keep in mind our brew conditions and ingredients never changed. It may take a lot of the intricate science out of brewing when I say this but we would only sparge long enough to hit our target volume in the kettle and be done with it. The end result was always fantastic award winning beer. Sent from my SCH-I545 using TapatalkSounds like you're talking about fly sparging, a different process.Ah see this is why I joined the forum. To catch every bit of information I canSent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Topic: Question about batch sparge timing (Read 5871 times)
