[santoch]

Yes...outside of some grain dust somehow getting into my fermenter or keg, I've never used a wild strain.

As Narvin mentioned, wild yeast and bacteria are everywhere in our environment (leave an open container of autoclaved wort out and watch what happens).  Wild yeast and bacteria ride on house dust.  Wild yeast and bacteria counts increase as the ambient temperature rises, which is why brewing was traditionally limited to the cooler months in places like Germany.  Elevated microflora counts are also the reason why I avoid working with my bank during the summer.

+1

You should consider getting a beergun or an old school CPBF and bottling directly off the kegs, or simply use the Mike McDole method of a bottling wand inserted into a cobra tap.  Either way, you need to ensure that anything touching your beer (bottles, caps, the lines, etc) and also the things touching the things touching your beer (like your hands, the capper surface, the table top, etc) are thoroughly sanitized before the beer touches it.  I basically assume that everything has wild yeast on it, and there is always an invisible slow 'rainfall' of wild yeast while I have any kind of beer or equipment out for use.  Open taps have beer in them, admit it or not.  Bottling out of a clean line will prevent wild yeast from getting in and taking root.

[troybinso]

Are you using Star San as your only sanitizer?  Star San does not kill wild yeast.

How does Star San differentiate between wild yeast and "domesticated" yeast? Or better put, how does wild yeast avoid being killed off by Star San?

[S. cerevisiae]

How does Star San differentiate between wild yeast and "domesticated" yeast? Or better put, how does wild yeast avoid being killed off by Star San?

Star San does not kill domesticated yeast either (it also does not kill mold).  It's just that domesticated yeast is  less of a threat than wild yeast.

Star San belongs to a class of sanitizers known as acid-anionic sanitizers.  Acid-anionic sanitizers were primarily formulated to kill bacteria in food processing environments, especially pathogens.  Brewers wrongly believe that the phosphoric acid in Star San is the active ingredient.  The role of phosphoric acid in Star San is to lower the pH of the solution in order to increase the effectiveness of the surfactant, which is dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid.  Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid is attracted to cells that have a positive charge.  The surfactant enters the cell wall and wreaks havoc on cellular activity.  The problem here is that yeast and mold cells are negatively charged.  The main deterrent that Star San provides for yeast and mold is its low pH; however, it is only able to weaken yeast and mold cells.  If a home brewer wants to achieve high levels of non-selective vegetative cell elimination, then the home brewing sanitizers of choice are the oxidizing halogens iodophor and chlorine bleach (plus vinegar).

[flbrewer]

So should I assume an infection and use iodophor one time? Or should I just carry on use the RO water?

[S. cerevisiae]

You should change one variable at a time.   A wild yeast infection appears to be more likely than a water problem based on your description.  Given your location, you need something more broad spectrum than Star San because you are more than likely dealing with elevated microflora counts year-round.   

[rcemech]

S. cerevisiae, could you provide your process for sanitization for your equipment, including the recipe (ratios) for your sanitizer that you mentioned above?

[S. cerevisiae]

S. cerevisiae, could you provide your process for sanitization for your equipment, including the recipe (ratios) for your sanitizer that you mentioned above?

A no-rinse bleach and vinegar-based sanitizer can be made using 1oz of bleach and 1oz of vinegar per 5 gallons of water as long as one's water is not highly buffered into the alkaline range.  I use a 12.5 ppm titratable iodine solution when using BTF Iodophor.  I know that 12.5 ppm titratable iodine sounds incredibly scientific, but directions for 12.5 and 25 ppm are on the bottle.

I am a soaker.   My gear soaks while I am brewing.  That way I can be assured that my gear has had adequate time with the sanitizer to ensure efficacy.  I clean all of my gear immediately after use.

[klickitat jim]

S. cerevisiae, could you provide your process for sanitization for your equipment, including the recipe (ratios) for your sanitizer that you mentioned above?

A no-rinse bleach and vinegar-based sanitizer can be made using 1oz of bleach and 1oz of vinegar per 5 gallons of water as long as one's water is not highly buffered into the alkaline range.  I use a 12.5 ppm titratable iodine solution when using BTF Iodophor.  I know that 12.5 ppm titratable iodine sounds incredibly scientific, but directions for 12.5 and 25 ppm are on the bottle.

I am a soaker.   My gear soaks while I am brewing.  That way I can be assured that my gear has had adequate time with the sanitizer to ensure efficacy.  I clean all of my gear immediately after use.

No rinse? How would 6ml bleach, 6ml vinegar (assuming old fashioned white vinegar) in a gallon of distilled,  in a spray bottle work? Just enough for surface contact, and let it air dry?

[rcemech]

S. cerevisiae, could you provide your process for sanitization for your equipment, including the recipe (ratios) for your sanitizer that you mentioned above?

A no-rinse bleach and vinegar-based sanitizer can be made using 1oz of bleach and 1oz of vinegar per 5 gallons of water as long as one's water is not highly buffered into the alkaline range.  I use a 12.5 ppm titratable iodine solution when using BTF Iodophor.  I know that 12.5 ppm titratable iodine sounds incredibly scientific, but directions for 12.5 and 25 ppm are on the bottle.

I am a soaker.   My gear soaks while I am brewing.  That way I can be assured that my gear has had adequate time with the sanitizer to ensure efficacy.  I clean all of my gear immediately after use.

I'm guessing that the chlorine levels from the bleach are small enough, especially after wort is added, that you don't get any off flavors from it?

I have hard water here in FL. Buying enough RO water on a regular basis for this wouldn't be practical.

Any other suggestions? I'm always looking to improve my processes. I've been using starsan for years with good luck, but I'm open to change if it's practical and it improves microbiological stability.

[a10t2]

I've been using starsan for years with good luck,

I think you answered your own question.

[rcemech]

I've been using starsan for years with good luck,

I think you answered your own question.

I know, but I was hoping that there might be some insight into other products or methods worth exploring.

[Stevie]

Isn't mixing bleach with any acid a basic no-no?

[klickitat jim]

Isn't mixing bleach with any acid a basic no-no?

According to the google, yes

[a10t2]

Isn't mixing bleach with any acid a basic no-no?

Adding pretty much anything directly to an acid is a no-no. Dissolving acid in a dilute bleach solution is OK. I'd still do it outside or under a hood just in case.

[Stevie]

Isn't mixing bleach with any acid a basic no-no?

Adding pretty much anything directly to an acid is a no-no. Dissolving acid in a dilute bleach solution is OK. I'd still do it outside or under a hood just in case.

Right, but isn't bleach and an acid particularly bad due to the fumes. Sure, others may cause violent results too, but bleach and acid is something my mom taught me when I was a kid.  I guess the danger is greatly reduced when diluted as you mentioned.