Author Topic: All Grain Brewing Instruction  (Read 816 times)

Offline BrewBama

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All Grain Brewing Instruction
« on: August 17, 2015, 12:16:11 AM »
I continue to read and re-read instruction on homebrewing to hone my skill.  I am at about 30 all grain batches to date and I simply want to ensure I improve as I go.  Tonight I read this from a very popular homebrew publication:

"Recirculation

The aim of recirculation is to draw some wort off from the bottom of the grain bed and return it to the top. Once enough wort has been recirculated in this way, the wort clears up substantially. To recirculate manually, open the spigot to the mash/lauter tun slightly and slowly collect wort in a beer pitcher or similar vessel. Keep a timer running and collect wort at a rate that would fill the pitcher in about 5 minutes. Once full, gently pour the pitcher back on top of the grain bed. Repeat this until the wort looks clearer or 20 minutes have passed. Some homebrew rigs allow you to recirculate using a pump.

Wort Collection

Once recirculation is finished, it's time to start collecting wort. To do this, slowly open the valve on your mash/lauter tun and let the wort start trickling in to the kettle. If your lauter tun is not positioned above the kettle, you can let the wort flow into a pitcher and then pour wort into the kettle. Collect the wort at a rate such that takes about 60–90 minutes to collect the entire volume. To do this, keep the dip stick in the kettle and check on it every few minutes. Write down the time you start collecting wort and the time you cross the 1-gallon mark, 2-gallon mark, 3-gallon mark, etc."

I definitely do not run off that slow to recirculate or collect wort.  Should I?  Will it improve the quality of my brew? Does this apply to fly sparge, batch sparge, and no sparge equally?  What say you?
“From man’s sweat and God’s love, beer came into the world.” — St. Arnold

Brewed in the Tennessee Valley. Rocket City — Huntsville AL

Offline tommymorris

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All Grain Brewing Instruction
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2015, 12:28:14 AM »
I continue to read and re-read instruction on homebrewing to hone my skill.  I am at about 30 all grain batches to date and I simply want to ensure I improve as I go.  Tonight I read this from a very popular homebrew publication:

"Recirculation

The aim of recirculation is to draw some wort off from the bottom of the grain bed and return it to the top. Once enough wort has been recirculated in this way, the wort clears up substantially. To recirculate manually, open the spigot to the mash/lauter tun slightly and slowly collect wort in a beer pitcher or similar vessel. Keep a timer running and collect wort at a rate that would fill the pitcher in about 5 minutes. Once full, gently pour the pitcher back on top of the grain bed. Repeat this until the wort looks clearer or 20 minutes have passed. Some homebrew rigs allow you to recirculate using a pump.

Wort Collection

Once recirculation is finished, it's time to start collecting wort. To do this, slowly open the valve on your mash/lauter tun and let the wort start trickling in to the kettle. If your lauter tun is not positioned above the kettle, you can let the wort flow into a pitcher and then pour wort into the kettle. Collect the wort at a rate such that takes about 60–90 minutes to collect the entire volume. To do this, keep the dip stick in the kettle and check on it every few minutes. Write down the time you start collecting wort and the time you cross the 1-gallon mark, 2-gallon mark, 3-gallon mark, etc."

I definitely do not run off that slow to recirculate or collect wort.  Should I?  Will it improve the quality of my brew? Does this apply to fly sparge, batch sparge, and no sparge equally?  What say you?
Those sounds like fly sparge times. Batch sparge goes as fast as your equipment and grain bill will allow with out a stuck sparge.

Offline BrewingRover

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Re: All Grain Brewing Instruction
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2015, 11:54:31 AM »
This is for fly sparging. This guy (or gal, the article isn't signed) is making things a lot harder than they need to be.
https://byo.com/newbrew/all-grain

Check out Denny's site for a more pragmatic approach.
http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
It's such a fine line between stupid and clever.

Offline kramerog

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Re: All Grain Brewing Instruction
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2015, 02:04:43 PM »


"Recirculation

The aim of recirculation is to draw some wort off from the bottom of the grain bed and return it to the top. Once enough wort has been recirculated in this way, the wort clears up substantially. To recirculate manually, open the spigot to the mash/lauter tun slightly and slowly collect wort in a beer pitcher or similar vessel. Keep a timer running and collect wort at a rate that would fill the pitcher in about 5 minutes. Once full, gently pour the pitcher back on top of the grain bed. Repeat this until the wort looks clearer or 20 minutes have passed. Some homebrew rigs allow you to recirculate using a pump.

Recirculation applies to both batch and fly sparging.  Recirculation can be skipped as in BIAB (boil? in a bag), but there are downsides.  There is no reason to recirculate at such a slow flow rate except  to avoid a stuck mash and to recirculate for that long.

Offline BrewBama

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Re: All Grain Brewing Instruction
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2015, 12:41:58 AM »
This is for fly sparging. This guy (or gal, the article isn't signed) is making things a lot harder than they need to be.
https://byo.com/newbrew/all-grain

Check out Denny's site for a more pragmatic approach.
http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
I agree. I have used Denny's info as a base for all my all grain brews....but I continue to read...
“From man’s sweat and God’s love, beer came into the world.” — St. Arnold

Brewed in the Tennessee Valley. Rocket City — Huntsville AL