[jeeyeop]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of finally investing in a keg system, but I wanted to make sure I got all the pieces and of good quality as well! Any opinions/comments are greatly appreciated! I was going to go for a simple 5 gallon single keg system:

Northern Brewer has a $50 off $250+ purchase so I was going to get a most of the pieces from there:

- Keg: http://www.northernbrewer.com/draft-brewer-reconditioned-ball-lock-keg
     I figured a used pepsi keg wouldn't make much difference. $99

- Gas connector: http://www.northernbrewer.com/gas-connector-kit-bl-ball-lock-version

- Beverage line: http://www.northernbrewer.com/foam-free-tubing-kit-bl-ball-lock-version
     for both of the connections, anyone have any input? I was only going to purchase these 2 since they were      already on this site, but I'm not sure if there are higher quality ones out there that make a significant difference. both lines $27 total

- CO2 tank: http://www.northernbrewer.com/co2-cylinder-5-empty
     it's just a simple 5lb tank for $99 new. Should i think of getting a larger size if I want to expand, or for any other reason? Also, should I look for a used one elsewhere?

-CO2 regulator. Here's where I have the most questions. I've heard pretty negative things about the regulators on NorthernBrewer so I thought I'd get something from Micro Matic.

Now they carry co2 regs, nitro regs, and co2/nitro regs. Can a normal co2 reg not be used with beer gas? Also, if I eventually want to play with nitro/co2 mixes, can a co2/nitro reg handle that AND 100% co2 tanks?

I was also thinking of getting a dual primary or a double gauge. But I've heard it's actually better to get a single primary double gauge and just add additions later on so I won't be limited to 2 kegs maximum.

Right now I'm eyeing http://www.micromatic.com/beer-regulators/primary-beer-co2-regulators
(the premium primary double gauge regulator. Any input?



On a slightly related note, preparing for my future first kegging:
1) If I fill a keg only halfway before carbing, do I need to adjust pressure somehow?
2) will trub in a keg affect the pour/carbonation?
3) at first I'll be carbing at room temperature. I've heard I'll have to lower carbonatio nas a result to reduce excessive foaming since I won't absorb as much co2 in a warmer temp. Anyone have a good resource for room temperature carbing/force carbing?


As usual, thanks a lot for any insight you can share!





trub

[Stevie]

I don't have the time to go over your entire post, but DO NOT pay $100 for a used keg. That price is absolute horse crap. Look at the kegs from Adventures in Homebrewing or the new kegs from MoreBeer.

[tommymorris]

Don't buy an empty co2 tank for $99 either. It's worth $50. Furthermore, where will you fill that tank? There are 2 options; paintball place may fill. Welding supply will exchange. Don't buy a new tank just to exchange for an old one. The welding suppliers (airgas, nexair) will sell a used one full of co2 for around $50.

[jeeyeop]

appreciate all the responses so far!

for the co2 tank, will the ones I buy from suppliers be any different in fittings/etc from the ones on the homebrewing sites?

as for the kegs. they do seem cheaper on AIH, but can anyone tell me if there's any difference between the draft brewers ball lock keg/ corny ball lock kegs/ other ball locks? thanks!

[tommymorris]

I can address a few of your other questions.

1. You don't need to anything special when filling a keg half way. The regulator will fill the empty volume with co2 at your pressure set point. You will need to purge more when you first fill. You want to get all the oxygen out.

2. Excessive trub can clog the dip tube. You need a lot of trub to clog it. Otherwise more trub just means cloudier beer.

3. When force carbing pick the amount of co2 you want in your beer (probably 2.3-2.5 volumes). Use the chart at link below to get the correct pressure set point for the current temperature. When you move the keg to the fridge look up new set point for new temp (but same volume of co2).

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

Look into kegconnection.com and beverageelements.com. Both have good deals for keg setups. Much better than northernbrewer. Look at keg kit 3 from beverage elements. It's a much better deal than NB.

[tommymorris]

appreciate all the responses so far!

for the co2 tank, will the ones I buy from suppliers be any different in fittings/etc from the ones on the homebrewing sites?

as for the kegs. they do seem cheaper on AIH, but can anyone tell me if there's any difference between the draft brewers ball lock keg/ corny ball lock kegs/ other ball locks? thanks!

re: co2 tanks. The ones from airgas and nexair have the same fittings as from homebrew shops.  Airgas/nexair sell to all the restaurants in town. The sell food grade co2. They sell to the paint ball and fire extinguisher stores also. They sell steel and aluminum tanks. Ask Aluminum. They may not have any in stock that day but Aluminum is much lighter.

Re: kegs. There are 2 types of legs.  Coke (pin lock) and Pepsi (ball lock). Ball lock is more popular with brewers. AIH sells some Coke legs reconfigured as ball locks. The Coke kegs are shorted and fatter; 9" diameter versus 8.5".   AIH has lots of choices. Most of the other differences are handle type and origin. Some are better quality than others. NSF certified is a good quality indicator.

[homoeccentricus]

As to half way filled kegs, also look here: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=25547.msg328969#msg328969

[lenphallock]

You'll need higher PSI at room temp. See charts.


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[SJIhomebrewjim]

Hello - I have a somewhat relative question. - I am a new kegger and have over-carbonated my beer. Can I fix that?

[tommymorris]

Hello - I have a somewhat relative question. - I am a new kegger and have over-carbonated my beer. Can I fix that?

Yes. Take the keg out of the fridge and set it in the house somewhere 60-75 degrees. Pull the pressure relief valve. Keep pulling every few hours for a few days until the beer is flat (no more gas escapes when you pull the valve). Then put the beer back in the fridge and start over. Carb slowly. Set the pressure to 11PSI and wait 1-2 weeks to carb.