[coolman26]

Yes, when I'm finished brewing I run cold rinse water through the system to get the major crud out. I then heat my diy pbw mix to about 180 and recirculate. Cleans the lines, CFC, pump, and kettle whirlpool fittings. I run for 10-15 minutes while putting other stuff away. I then rinse it well with hot tap and put away. My process anyway. 


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[fmader]

Thanks for all of the advice. I ended up going with the Chugger that is comparable to the March 315 except it has a stainless steel head. It just seemed logical since it was $30 cheaper than the March with a plastic head. I didn't read a bad review on it. Regardless of it being stainless, I am still going to mount it similar to how Martin has his mounted. I will add shut offs to both sides and utilize stainless quick disconnects for the hoses attachments.

[metron-brewer]

I use type same cleaning process except I then use an air compressor to blow out all the lines. I installed QD's on either side of the pump to remove hoses and blow the pump out as well.

[mabrungard]

In order to clean these guys, do you just load the brew kettle up with some oxi-clean solution and just pump it through then rinse it with water the same way?

I only occasionally perform a hot PBW circulation for my pump and piping. Remember, this is hot-side equipment in my case and I don't worry about sanitary conditions on the hot side. However, I do worry about crud. The pump is well-rinsed and drained after every brew session.

[BFBC]

Is it beneficial to have a ball valve on the outlet side to regulate flow?

Yes, on that side you can decrease flow with no problem. You can even shut the flow off and not damage the pump.

Deadheading these pumps is generally not recommended, especially for any extended period.

[mabrungard]

Deadheading a centrifugal pump for minutes at a time, is perfectly OK. It will not damage the pump in any way. The only way to damage the pump by deadheading is to do it long enough so that the liquid in the volute heats to the point of boiling. That will take a while.

[BFBC]

Deadheading a centrifugal pump for minutes at a time, is perfectly OK. It will not damage the pump in any way. The only way to damage the pump by deadheading is to do it long enough so that the liquid in the volute heats to the point of boiling. That will take a while.

Very true.  But, the very best way to make that scenario happen is to forget you closed the valve.  Ask me how I know!

[hopfenundmalz]

Is it beneficial to have a ball valve on the outlet side to regulate flow?

Yes, on that side you can decrease flow with no problem. You can even shut the flow off and not damage the pump.

Deadheading these pumps is generally not recommended, especially for any extended period.

Sure, you are putting energy into the fluid that is in the pump head, it will heat up, then bad things can happen. How long did it take in your experience? As a note, I have been shutting the out put off for a short period if I am moving the output hose from one vessel to the next, no problems doing that. Been doing it on my March pump for over a dozen years.

As a guy who worked on some positive displacement hydraulic pumps, well, those have pressure relief valves for a reason. Even then you did not want to stay in pressure relief for too long, as the fluid was returned to the pump reservoir, and it would cause the oil temp to go up. Bad things could happen. Short periods no problem. The loud hiss you might remember when you had an older car at full lock was the power steering pressure relief valve doing its thing.

[BFBC]

Is it beneficial to have a ball valve on the outlet side to regulate flow?

Yes, on that side you can decrease flow with no problem. You can even shut the flow off and not damage the pump.

Deadheading these pumps is generally not recommended, especially for any extended period.

Sure, you are putting energy into the fluid that is in the pump head, it will heat up, then bad things can happen. How long did it take in your experience? As a note, I have been shutting the out put off for a short period if I am moving the output hose from one vessel to the next, no problems doing that. Been doing it on my March pump for over a dozen years.

As a guy who worked on some positive displacement hydraulic pumps, well, those have pressure relief valves for a reason. Even then you did not want to stay in pressure relief for too long, as the fluid was returned to the pump reservoir, and it would cause the oil temp to go up. Bad things could happen. Short periods no problem. The loud hiss you might remember when you had an older car at full lock was the power steering pressure relief valve doing its thing.

Fortunately it was not on my brew system, but a small (CF 2 hp) pump at work.  I would estimate it took 1/2 an hour to overheat the pump and another 1/2 hour to fail the pump completely (frozen impeller).  Hard to say, as everyone was distracted with a more urgent mechanical failure at the time.

I will say that our procedures discourage the practice, even for a few minutes, as we have experienced hammered pipes (valve closed too quickly), and faster bearing, impeller, seal and motor failures on pumps that have been deadheaded frequently.  Not too surprising, as DHing puts you on the max pressure curve almost immediately.

All of our mission critical pumps are fully automated and none of the control systems allow DHing.  The operator has to clear the alarm, or bypass the pump within a couple of minutes in most cases, before a full shutdown occurs.

My industrial stories aside, I think the average brewer is completely safe to DH for a few minutes.  As mentioned, though, things happen and a forgotten pump can and will fail eventually.  My work experiences make me avoid the practice at home,  I suppose.

[hopfenundmalz]

Is it beneficial to have a ball valve on the outlet side to regulate flow?

Yes, on that side you can decrease flow with no problem. You can even shut the flow off and not damage the pump.

Deadheading these pumps is generally not recommended, especially for any extended period.

Sure, you are putting energy into the fluid that is in the pump head, it will heat up, then bad things can happen. How long did it take in your experience? As a note, I have been shutting the out put off for a short period if I am moving the output hose from one vessel to the next, no problems doing that. Been doing it on my March pump for over a dozen years.

As a guy who worked on some positive displacement hydraulic pumps, well, those have pressure relief valves for a reason. Even then you did not want to stay in pressure relief for too long, as the fluid was returned to the pump reservoir, and it would cause the oil temp to go up. Bad things could happen. Short periods no problem. The loud hiss you might remember when you had an older car at full lock was the power steering pressure relief valve doing its thing.

Fortunately it was not on my brew system, but a small (CF 2 hp) pump at work.  I would estimate it took 1/2 an hour to overheat the pump and another 1/2 hour to fail the pump completely (frozen impeller).  Hard to say, as everyone was distracted with a more urgent mechanical failure at the time.

I will say that our procedures discourage the practice, even for a few minutes, as we have experienced hammered pipes (valve closed too quickly), and faster bearing, impeller, seal and motor failures on pumps that have been deadheaded frequently.  Not too surprising, as DHing puts you on the max pressure curve almost immediately.

All of our mission critical pumps are fully automated and none of the control systems allow DHing.  The operator has to clear the alarm, or bypass the pump within a couple of minutes in most cases, before a full shutdown occurs.

My industrial stories aside, I think the average brewer is completely safe to DH for a few minutes.  As mentioned, though, things happen and a forgotten pump can and will fail eventually.  My work experiences make me avoid the practice at home,  I suppose.

My hoses are thermoplastic, so those are compliant. Ball valves vs butterfly valves. A March pump has 1\25 HP, but less fluid in the head.

Yeah, I can see where this a case where Homebrew practice does not translate to Commercial practice.

[Philbrew]

Yes, when I'm finished brewing I run cold rinse water through the system to get the major crud out. I then heat my diy pbw mix to about 180 and recirculate. Cleans the lines, CFC, pump, and kettle whirlpool fittings. I run for 10-15 minutes while putting other stuff away. I then rinse it well with hot tap and put away. My process anyway. 


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Coolman,
That sounds like good process that I could use.  Approximately how much pbw do you put into how much water in what size kettle?

[bengelbrau]

I like to run the first five or six gallons of hot water from the chiller into an old aluminum pot with about a scoop of Oxyclean in it. When I've pumped the wort into the fermentation vessel, I put the chiller into the oxy pot and recirculate while I take care of the carboy and clean up. Then I pump the oxy water into the boil kettle to clean it, and pump that into the toilet with the hose through a window. About every other brew, I take some BKF to the kettle, and pump the rinse water into the toilet.  Minimal lifting, which is good for my old bones. A bit of clean water goes through the hoses and pump head so it's ready for the next time.

[coolman26]

Yes, when I'm finished brewing I run cold rinse water through the system to get the major crud out. I then heat my diy pbw mix to about 180 and recirculate. Cleans the lines, CFC, pump, and kettle whirlpool fittings. I run for 10-15 minutes while putting other stuff away. I then rinse it well with hot tap and put away. My process anyway. 


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Coolman,
That sounds like good process that I could use.  Approximately how much pbw do you put into how much water in what size kettle?

Sorry for the delay.  I think my scoop is 4 oz. I use 2 oz/5g of water.  Usually it's one scoop (4oz) for 10g.   My BK is 25 gallons and I usually heat up 10 gallons.  I use the hot PBW when I'm finished to soak kegs overnight.  I generally have a few that need to soak.  I vary my amount of cleaning water depending on my keg cleaning needs.  There isn't a lot of gunk in it after my initial water rinse.  It surprises me though what I get after the hot recirculation.  I also make sure to open and close the ball valves while I'm doing this.  Some crud can get lodged around the ball.  I break down my 3 piece ball valves about every 3rd or 4th brew session.  They can get some build up in there believe it or not. 

[smkranz]

This might seem like a silly question, but I want to make sure before I buy all the wrong fittings or have to buy more fittings... In order to clean these guys, do you just load the brew kettle up with some oxi-clean solution and just pump it through then rinse it with water the same way?

Pretty much.  I have both a March 815 pump and a Chugger with a stainless head, and they both work equally well.  I recirculate a hot PBW solution through the pump and plate chiller to clean them after each batch.  But it's a good idea to take the head off the pump once in awhile to inspect and clean the gasket and impeller.  There is also a small nylon washer in there that can wear out...it's called a thrust washer.  Good idea to keep a few on hand.

[davidw]

Well now, Steve, you would be the person to ask! The March 815 looks exactly like the Chugger on the More Beer site. Are they the same pump? I have a March and was thinking about replacing the poly head with a SS one for no other reason than I have a stainless steel fetish!

With that said, I think I have had the head off my March once in 15+ years when a mash of german wheat has so much protein it clogged things up and I had to stop, disassemble, clean out the gunk, add some more rice hulls and proceed. I run a little hot water through the pump after mashing for no other reason than to prevent the sugars from drying out and sticking things up. Knock on wood, never had any issues.