[blatz]

The only question I have is, when transferring from the dry-hopping keg to the serving keg, are you using an autosiphon or something to leave the additional sediment behind (in the dry hopping keg)?  Theoretically, there shouldn't be much, but with the yeasts we are using plus with the amount of dry hops, I expect there to be, well...more than I expect.  I suppose you could hacksaw a dip tube on one of them...

I do a closed transfer by jumping the beer from liquid connection to liquid connection (with an unconnected gas QD on the recipient to release the pressure , pushing with CO2 at about 4PSI.  if you pay attention and watch the line once the transfer is almost done, you can stop the flow by pulling one of the QD connections.  The SureScreens block a LOT of gunk and I usually have very little come over to the serving keg unless I get distracted. 

[blatz]

a different way of doing this is what Gordon Strong mentioned in his book - gently (GENTLY) tile the keg on its side after crashing, prop the bottom of the keg up about an inch and transfer the beer out via the gas dip tube to the fresh keg.

forgot to mention above that I always crash my kegs for 48 hours before transferring to compact the sludge.

[coolman26]

Dry hop #2 is done in a CO2 purged dry hopping keg.  I use a double screen over the dip tube.  I fill keg with star san, push it out with CO2.  Open lid, add dry hops to keg (free, not bagged).  Rack from fermenter onto hops.  Purge head space with CO2 again.  Let it sit for 2-3 days and then jump it from the dry hop keg to a serving keg.  Leaves all the hop material behind.  This is the strategy I use for the dry hop keg - it takes a time or two to get a process down, but once you do, it works great: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

I do this as well, although I use a surescreen which works fine.

I go back and forth of whether to purge again after adding the dry hops to the sanitized then purged keg and rack the beer on top, or just add the hops to the keg after racking.

Any problems with the Surescreen clogging?  I used some stainless screen I had, but it let quite a bit transfer to my serving keg.


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[narcout]

if you pay attention and watch the line once the transfer is almost done, you can stop the flow by pulling one of the QD connections.

I do that as well.  At the beginning of the transfer, I also run the first few ounces into a pitcher rather than the receiving keg. 

[pinnah]

VIPA/NEIPA refers to the juicier, heavier mouthfeel, less-bitter hop-forward beers (typically cloudy in appearance) produced by breweries such as Trillium, Foley, Alchemist, Hill Farmstead, Treehouse, Singlecut and others (but most say pioneered by Alchemist) that focus on a balance of the right fruity (typically stone and tropical fruit) esters AND hop aroma.  Essentially, these amount to IPA's that are more dependent on yeast strain and behavior for the final flavor profile, as opposed to a true West Coast which has more of a focus on pure hop aroma, neutral, non-estery yeast strain, often better clarity, with a firmer, lingering bitterness. 

What do you guys say, should I be writing style guidelines or what?

Yes!    Thanks for the excellent explanation. .... I think I might be making VIPA at my house and not even know it- 

[pinnah]

What about this dryhopping prior to the end of fermentation?

Doesn't that lessen the dry hop charge because the yeast take down the effect and additionally hop goodness is blown out?

Do people do this only to eliminate the effects of potential oxidation from dryhopping?

[blatz]

Any problems with the Surescreen clogging?  I used some stainless screen I had, but it let quite a bit transfer to my serving keg.

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knock on wood, have never had it happen (my backup plan is always to use Gordon's process if it did happen).

when I first started doing this method about a year ago, I wanted to see how much I lost to dryhopping - I strained (though did not press the liquid out of the hop matter) the contents remaining in the keg and found I really only lost about 12-16oz of liquid, the same as if I didn't dryhop.

of course, you do lose a bunch that is absorbed by the hops, but I am okay with that I guess - a small bit of sacrifice for an optimal method for me.

[blatz]

What about this dryhopping prior to the end of fermentation?

Doesn't that lessen the dry hop charge because the yeast take down the effect and additionally hop goodness is blown out?

Do people do this only to eliminate the effects of potential oxidation from dryhopping?

Brynildson adds the first charge at about 1 Plato prior to reaching final target, feels that the CO2 off gasing scrubs the O2 off the hops, but is not so effervescent as to remove all the volatiles. 

I've tried it but will need to experiment more.  My biggest challenge is in the timing - work gets in the way of my dryhopping schedule sometimes.

[HoosierBrew]

What about this dryhopping prior to the end of fermentation?

Doesn't that lessen the dry hop charge because the yeast take down the effect and additionally hop goodness is blown out?

Do people do this only to eliminate the effects of potential oxidation from dryhopping?

Personally I'm not a believer in the dry hopping itself causing oxidation, more the beer's exposure to outside air. But some people dry hop as krausen winds down to push out any oxygen (along with some hop aromas). And some do it because there are compounds formed from dry hopping in the presence of yeast that some find desireable. I dry hop crashed, clear beer to greatly reduce the loss of aroma to yeast absorption, then yeast dropping out. Lots of ways to get there.

[pinnah]

And some do it because there are compounds formed from dry hopping in the presence of yeast that some find desireable.

Interesting. Any info on what these desirable traits might be?

[hopfenundmalz]

What about this dryhopping prior to the end of fermentation?

Doesn't that lessen the dry hop charge because the yeast take down the effect and additionally hop goodness is blown out?

Do people do this only to eliminate the effects of potential oxidation from dryhopping?

Brynildson adds the first charge at about 1 Plato prior to reaching final target, feels that the CO2 off gasing scrubs the O2 off the hops, but is not so effervescent as to remove all the volatiles. 

I've tried it but will need to experiment more.  My biggest challenge is in the timing - work gets in the way of my dryhopping schedule sometimes.

You also get biotransformantions of certain hop compounds.

The O2 is scrubed or used by the yeast.

You can always dry hop again when the yeast have been crashed.

[denny]

And some do it because there are compounds formed from dry hopping in the presence of yeast that some find desireable.

Interesting. Any info on what these desirable traits might be?

Personally, I've found undesirable effects from dry hopping with yeast present.

[HoosierBrew]

And some do it because there are compounds formed from dry hopping in the presence of yeast that some find desireable.

Interesting. Any info on what these desirable traits might be?

Personally, I've found undesirable effects from dry hopping with yeast present.

I agree. I know some brewers feel differently.

Pinnah, this article gets into some of the biotransformations of yeast on hops without going too technical :

http://allaboutbeer.com/article/flavor-hops/

[BurghBeezer]

And some do it because there are compounds formed from dry hopping in the presence of yeast that some find desireable.

Interesting. Any info on what these desirable traits might be?

Personally, I've found undesirable effects from dry hopping with yeast present.

I agree. I know some brewers feel differently.

Pinnah, this article gets into some of the biotransformations of yeast on hops without going too technical :

http://allaboutbeer.com/article/flavor-hops/

I have dry-hopped a lot on day 3, 4 or 5 of fermentation with no negatives perceived.  I would think the same oils are there in presence of fermenting yeast in a big whirlpool hopped beer as in dry-hopped during fermentation.

I will say that I often am more generous on dry-hop quantities if my only dry-hop is during active fermentation, but I've been doing a lot of split dry-hops; where I put the first addition during fermentation and the second once kegged.

It is interesting the different 'results' we get doing seemingly the same thing.

That link HoosierBrew posted has a lot of the information Stan mentioned during BeerSmith podcast #52 that I listened to the other day.  http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/12/26/for-the-love-of-hops-with-stan-hieronymus-beersmith-podcast-52/

I liked the mention of bravo hops bringing out unique character of some hops, because I've used it to dry-hop several times mixed with other hops and always have been pleased by the results.  Like a lot of hops it's not that interesting in a single hop beer, but mixes well.

[HoosierBrew]

I have dry-hopped a lot on day 3, 4 or 5 of fermentation with no negatives perceived.  I would think the same oils are there in presence of fermenting yeast in a big whirlpool hopped beer as in dry-hopped during fermentation.

I will say that I often am more generous on dry-hop quantities if my only dry-hop is during active fermentation, but I've been doing a lot of split dry-hops; where I put the first addition during fermentation and the second once kegged.

It is interesting the different 'results' we get doing seemingly the same thing.

Yeah, the same oils are there in a whirlpool as are there for dry hopping during fermentation. What we're talking about is the difference in hop character between beers dry hopped during fermentation and those dry hopped after crashing and/or fining the yeast out of suspension. Dry hopping in the presence of yeast can cause biotransformations of hop compounds into slightly different hop character - some like it more, some less than others. Nobody's right or wrong, we all just have our own preference.