[pete b]

I need to build a keggerator and plan on buying a kit to convert a fridge. Maybe 3 taps
Questions:
Is there an advantage of tower vs door taps? I'm thinking I would rather not have it be too big so maybe leaning towards door taps.
Is there a go to fridge here in terms of brand and size?
Do people lager in their keggerators? Is there a sweet spot temperature wise that is cold enough to lager but not too cold a serving temp?

[euge]

The line in the tower (at least mine) doesn't stay as cold as as through the door setup would.

It's warm enough to have to dump a couple oz if it hasn't been pulled frequently.

[BrewArk]

My decision was easy we bought a new fridge when we remodeled the kitchen.  My old fridge became my keggerator after building a floor with redwood to accommodate the slope in the floor over the compressor.

Mine is fairly small with the freezer on the top.  I put the taps on the side, rather than the door for convenience, with the CO₂ under the drip tray.

Temperature is a consideration for the length of your liquid lines when you set up.  I would think that you can serve at lagering temps. without too much issue.  Serving at fermentation temps. can be problematic.

[Joe Sr.]

I put the taps on the side, rather than the door for convenience, with the CO₂ under the drip tray.

Did you encounter anything in the side wall?  Did you need to make sure you didn't hit any lines of any sort?

I'm planning to bring my CO2 in through the side wall but haven't begun yet.  I was assuming I'd need to work carefully to make sure there's nothing in there that can be harmed.

[mainebrewer]

If the fridge has a black wire screen on the back, then that is where the bulk of the coolant lines are. Not all but most.
Work from the inside by using the hole saw with the bit retracted and cut a hold where you want the shank to pass through the side wall.
Just cut the plastic, then take a small screw driver or something similar and probe the insulation between the plastic and the outer metal skin.
If you don't find a coolant line, adjust the hole saw so that the bit protrudes and drill the metal skin from the inside until the bit penetrates the skin.
then go outside and finish the hole from the outside of the fridge. (You'll have a smoother cut this way)
You can google your fridge make and model and usually find a schematic for the coolant lines that are in the walls.

[BrewArk]

I put the taps on the side, rather than the door for convenience, with the CO₂ under the drip tray.

Did you encounter anything in the side wall?  Did you need to make sure you didn't hit any lines of any sort?

I'm planning to bring my CO2 in through the side wall but haven't begun yet.  I was assuming I'd need to work carefully to make sure there's nothing in there that can be harmed.

I looked @ the bottom & it looked like all the coils were all there.  I drilled four holes two for CO₂ lines and two for the shanks.  All I encountered was foam insulation.  Perhaps I was lucky, but it seems to me that walls of my fridge were too thin & have too little access to have any active parts in them.

I wouldn't say the same about the back.  I assume that the wires to the light switch, coldness controller, etc. have to go somewhere.

[pete b]

I found myself in big box store land yesterday and looked at fridges at Lowe's. Between freezers and ledges and such the fridges that appear the right size seem like they wouldn't fit kegs and the co2 canister very well. They had a small chest freezer that seemed like just the ticket. I'm thinking that and an external controller and taps out the side. Does that sound right? Alsoanyone know if that would actually be cheaper torun?

[Stevie]

From what my kill-o-watt has told me in the past, the cost to run a freezer as a keezer is about the same as the prediction that they post on the yellow card.

[pete b]

From what my kill-o-watt has told me in the past, the cost to run a freezer as a keezer is about the same as the prediction that they post on the yellow card.

Which is just $26/year for this one.