[SPAMR]

Thank you all for the help!

[a10t2]

Any estimation on the type of efficiency achieved by using this method? (For projection sake next time)

For 6 gal pre-boil and 5 gal post-boil, three equal runnings with a 15 lb grist would give ~75% lauter efficiency. http://seanterrill.com/batchsparge/

[SPAMR]

Any estimation on the type of efficiency achieved by using this method? (For projection sake next time)

For 6 gal pre-boil and 5 gal post-boil, three equal runnings with a 15 lb grist would give ~75% lauter efficiency. http://seanterrill.com/batchsparge/

When you sparge, how long should the water sit after mixing?

[a10t2]

When you sparge, how long should the water sit after mixing?

No need. Once you're done stirring you can go straight to vorlauf or runoff.

[MDixon]

I kinda scanned the comments, but I vote your crush was too coarse. Ask if the grain can be crushed finer.

[duboman]

All great advice so far, the only add I have is to ensure your hydrometer or refractometer are properly calibrated as well

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Steve Ruch]

I kinda scanned the comments, but I vote your crush was too coarse. Ask if the grain can be crushed finer.

On the batches that I mill at home I get an O G 15% higher than when my LHBS mills the grains.
I usually only have them do it for really big beers, I figure the cost of a little more grain is worth not having to mill a really large batch.

[MDixon]

Motorize that mill.

When I first put a motor on mine the idea was to start the grinding process and to go get a cup of coffee. Turns out mine grinds at about 10 lbs per minute. I dumped in the grain and it was gone. Now I have a 25lb hopper on that puppy.

[denny]

Disclaimer: yesterday was my first time brewing all grain. I have only read about the process, and watched a few contradicting YouTube videos.

In short:
I was hoping to achieve 72% efficiency but ending up hitting only 55%. Thankfully I was originally trying to brew an Imperial IPA, but ended up brewing an IPA instead. 

The process:
15# of grain and 4.5 gallons of water in a 10 gallon SS Brew Tech mash tun.
Strike water was 170*, the grains were steeped for 60 minutes at ~154-149 by the end.
Batch sparged with 3.3 gallons of water which was inserted into the mash tun at 195*
Mixed grains and emptied into the brew kettle.

Any advice on what/where I went wrong?

Next time I am going to try fly sparging since I have the attachment for the mash tun. The only reason I didn't use it last night was because I have t built out the HLT yet...

The #1 cause of poor efficiency is poor crush. It's not due to the batch sparging...I average about 83% batch sparging.

[denny]

Split the sparge in half.  Try to get 1/3 of your total preboil volume from the first runnings, then 1/3 from the first sparge and 1/3 from the second sparge.  The two sparges are the same 1/3 of the total each.

Don't bother....unnecessary.

[denny]

Any estimation on the type of efficiency achieved by using this method? (For projection sake next time)

What temperature do you heat the sparge water to? Is 195* safe to use?

You should experience an increase in efficiency of at least 5-10% with a double sparge.

195 F is perfect sparge temp for batch sparging.  You did good.

I never have, Dave.  MAYBE 2%, but mostly nothing.

[dmtaylor]

You should experience an increase in efficiency of at least 5-10% with a double sparge.

195 F is perfect sparge temp for batch sparging.  You did good.

I never have, Dave.  MAYBE 2%, but mostly nothing.

Hmm... it's worked for me.  The higher efficiency I've seen might be more due to collecting extra wort and boiling longer, though (like 105-120 minutes).  You and I may both be right when you include that additional variable.

[denny]

You should experience an increase in efficiency of at least 5-10% with a double sparge.

195 F is perfect sparge temp for batch sparging.  You did good.

I never have, Dave.  MAYBE 2%, but mostly nothing.

Hmm... it's worked for me.  The higher efficiency I've seen might be more due to collecting extra wort and boiling longer, though (like 105-120 minutes).  You and I may both be right when you include that additional variable.

Yep, that will make a difference.  When I've experimented with multiple sparge additions (quite a few times) I still end up with the same amount of wort as with one addition.

[Indy574]

What is the purpose of higher temp sparge water?  I also do around 170-172F.

[klickitat jim]

What is the purpose of higher temp sparge water?  I also do around 170-172F.

I think of it this way. If you were to squirt some honey on a plate, what would rinse it off better? 155º water, or 170º? Its been said that hotter water may extract astringent tannins from the malt husks though. But its also been said that if your pH is in the proper range, that is not an issue. After all decoction (boiling the malt) doesn't produce a astringent tannin problem. So, I tend to sparge quite hot, like about 190F sparge water, and have found no astringency issues. I can't say that it hugely increases my efficiency, but it does get my preboil wort closer to a boil. So I do it because I can, with no negative effect, and a little saving of time waiting for a boil.

Regarding the original post, assuming the grain was crushed and had sufficient diastatic power, (all we know is it was 15 pounds of grain, 3 of it was flaked oats. We assume the other 12 was base malt, but we've seen folks use nothing but crystal...) assuming all else is well, I would wonder what the pH of the mash was.

Has anyone addressed "efficiency" yet? I assume the OP is talking brew house efficiency, since most people only measure OG of the final wort going into the fermenter. I get right around 72% brew house, or gravity of wort in the fermenter. But my mash efficiency is always right there with Kai Troester's chart. If I mash 1.5 qts per pound I am always right around 1.080. According to my math thats about 85% in the mash tun. I assume I lose a little efficiency in my sparge/lautering, and the rest is equipment hop and trub loss, because im basing my brew house efficiency on the 6 gallons in the fermenter, not the wort in my pump, tubing, grain absorption, hop absorption, and the remaining couple quarts in the bottom of my boil kettel. I'll bet my 75% is more like 82-84% if I measured the full deal.

So, something tells me his low efficiency is probably a combo of math issues and/or unknown pH which is probably too high or possibly too low.