[beersk]

I have not read the whole thread so if this is a repeat, just ignore or delete.

I found the place in Australia that sells Brewtan B: http://www.ibrew.com.au/products/brewtan-b

Yep, this has been included in the thread. Not bad to repeat it though I suppose for anyone looking for brewtan B.

[yso191]

I use a reloading scale that weighs in grains.

Denny is a gun guy?  I'm surprised!

[ParanoidAndroid10]

Maybe a way to think about this is: O2 can react and oxidize more than one (likely many) compounds that make up wort. Does brewtan, by itself, work as an antioxidant for all of those oxidation reactions?

I don't doubt that people are seeing positive results with use of Brewtan (I feel that I have seen it in terms of shelf life in my bottled beer) but I very much doubt you will get the same result just using Brewtan vs low dissolved oxygen/SMB.

That's a good way to think about it, but on the other hand, you could say that the oxidation of "compound 1" is 90% responsible for the loss in flavor/IT.  Brewtan prevents this.  The oxidation of compounds 2-200 still occur, but are 10% of the equation.  If you are getting 90% (or whatever % you feel is correct), do you want to put the effort in for that extra 10%.

*For the record, I am neutral in all this.  I have implemented some steps of LODO and use Brewtan.  My last 3 beers are night and day vs years of terrible beer.

Which of the LODO steps did you use?  I tried the SMB, and using yeast/DME to scavenge the oxygen for the mash/sparge water in the brew I've currently got in the FV.

Yeast /dextrose in morning and when I get home, smb, brewtan, cinnamon,  stainless chiller.  No spunding and I biab

Thanks for the info, how much cinnamon do you add, and to what volume?

Here is all my additions.  Salts and minerals not listed as they change batch to batch.  I do 1.75 and 3.25 gal batches.

[denny]

I use a reloading scale that weighs in grains.

Denny is a gun guy?  I'm surprised!

No, I bought it 40 years ago for other purposes.

[Hand of Dom]

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=353


 

Thanks.  I don't see anything about Brewtan here though.

It wasn't in regards to brewtan, it was in regards to you not wanting to preboil your water.

Got it.  I see I'm not the first person to want to take a shortcut!

You might find this interesting.  I followed this approach instead of preboiling on my last batch.

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=355

[hopfenundmalz]

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=353


 

Thanks.  I don't see anything about Brewtan here though.

It wasn't in regards to brewtan, it was in regards to you not wanting to preboil your water.

Got it.  I see I'm not the first person to want to take a shortcut!

You might find this interesting.  I followed this approach instead of preboiling on my last batch.

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=355

I did that for one beer I did. Still need a DO meter (maybe), and a SS Chiller. Need to pull the trigger on those.

[Big Monk]

...Still need a DO meter (maybe)...

A pack of sulfite test strips may be an economic way to gauge your consumption.

[narvin]

You might find this interesting.  I followed this approach instead of preboiling on my last batch.

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=355

Full disclosure, my newest fest bier I did preboil, no sparge, and use both smb in the strike water and polyclar in the whirlpool.  I'm open to anything, but I'm coming at it from a slightly different angle.  I love my beers, but would like to reduce lagering time.  I find that gelatin is not the same as aging.  I blame the polyphenol Boogeyman.

I still have a copper pick up tube.  I'm convinced that it's essential for classic Belgian styles.  But I have seen improvements in conditioning time for this beer.

[Big Monk]

Here is all my additions.  Salts and minerals not listed as they change batch to batch.  I do 1.75 and 3.25 gal batches.

Your SMB doses look to be off high, unless you didn't calculate off your base dose.

[ParanoidAndroid10]

Here is all my additions.  Salts and minerals not listed as they change batch to batch.  I do 1.75 and 3.25 gal batches.

Your SMB doses look to be off high, unless you didn't calculate off your base dose.

I do biab so my dose assumptions could be wrong.

My 3.25 gal batches use 4.5 gallons of water for full mash. That's about 17 liters.  At 60 mg/l that's 1020 mg or 1.02 grams.

[brewinhard]

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=353


 

Thanks.  I don't see anything about Brewtan here though.

It wasn't in regards to brewtan, it was in regards to you not wanting to preboil your water.

Got it.  I see I'm not the first person to want to take a shortcut!

You might find this interesting.  I followed this approach instead of preboiling on my last batch.

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=355

This I find interesting. How long did you let the yeast work for in your water prior to heating it up to strike temp?
And did you make a separate "starter" with the yeast and DME prior to adding it to the strike water or just mix it right in with the strike water itself?

[Big Monk]

Here is all my additions.  Salts and minerals not listed as they change batch to batch.  I do 1.75 and 3.25 gal batches.

Your SMB doses look to be off high, unless you didn't calculate off your base dose.

I do biab so my dose assumptions could be wrong.

My 3.25 gal batches use 4.5 gallons of water for full mash. That's about 17 liters.  At 60 mg/l that's 1020 mg or 1.02 grams.

Your headings confused me. I thought those were your strike volumes.

[Hand of Dom]

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=353


 

Thanks.  I don't see anything about Brewtan here though.

It wasn't in regards to brewtan, it was in regards to you not wanting to preboil your water.

Got it.  I see I'm not the first person to want to take a shortcut!

You might find this interesting.  I followed this approach instead of preboiling on my last batch.

http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=355

This I find interesting. How long did you let the yeast work for in your water prior to heating it up to strike temp?
And did you make a separate "starter" with the yeast and DME prior to adding it to the strike water or just mix it right in with the strike water itself?

I added directly to my water using bakers yeast. I added the night before I brewed. Was probably in there for eleven hours before heating


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[ParanoidAndroid10]

Here is all my additions.  Salts and minerals not listed as they change batch to batch.  I do 1.75 and 3.25 gal batches.

Your SMB doses look to be off high, unless you didn't calculate off your base dose.

I do biab so my dose assumptions could be wrong.

My 3.25 gal batches use 4.5 gallons of water for full mash. That's about 17 liters.  At 60 mg/l that's 1020 mg or 1.02 grams.

Your headings confused me. I thought those were your strike volumes.

Sorry about that.

Btw, does that mean I've been saying batch sizes wrong forever?  I've always said my batch sizes were what ended up in the fermenter or keg.

[Big Monk]

Btw, does that mean I've been saying batch sizes wrong forever?  I've always said my batch sizes were what ended up in the fermenter or keg.

Batch size can mean different things to different people. I typically use the terms Fermentor Volume and Packaged Volume. This way you can plan for your Packaged Volume to be your Fermentor Volume minus any Fermentor Loss.