[Phil_M]

I even bought some new equipment yesterday, a little more to purchase before I think I can do it properly.

I have made English beers that were too clean in the past, when I did too much like fermenting a lager on the cold side. The British breweries I have toured were not all that modern.

Exactly, it's pretty straightforward to recreate their mashing methods at home. The trick is fermenting. Burton unions, Yorkshire Squares, etc. I've got an idea for a stainless "Yorkshire Circle" fermenter that I may see if Spike Brewing is willing to build for me...

[hopfenundmalz]

I even bought some new equipment yesterday, a little more to purchase before I think I can do it properly.

I have made English beers that were too clean in the past, when I did too much like fermenting a lager on the cold side. The British breweries I have toured were not all that modern.

Exactly, it's pretty straightforward to recreate their mashing methods at home. The trick is fermenting. Burton unions, Yorkshire Squares, etc. I've got an idea for a stainless "Yorkshire Circle" fermenter that I may see if Spike Brewing is willing to build for me...

The unions and squares are needed for high oxygen requirement yeast strains, such as those from Yorkshire (WY-1469). Others do fine with open fermentation (WLP 022). There are those that are used in conicals by the brewery (WLP-002/Wyeast 1968). As Mark would say, know the yeast you are using and what makes it perform.

[dilluh98]

The unions and squares are needed for high oxygen requirement yeast strains, such as those from Yorkshire (WY-1469). Others do fine with open fermentation (WLP 022). There are those that are used in conicals by the brewery (WLP-002/Wyeast 1968). As Mark would say, know the yeast you are using and what makes it perform.

Amen to that. There are times when I want to quit futzing around with a bunch of ale strains and just pick one that's fairly versatile, know how it performs under every condition I brew, and use that information to brew a whole span of ale styles. WLP007 might be that strain if I ever decided to go that route. Quite clean at the lower end and nice English character at higher temps. Relatively easy to work with, too.

And sorry for severely derailing this Brewtan B train.

[Phil_M]

The unions and squares are needed for high oxygen requirement yeast strains, such as those from Yorkshire (WY-1469). Others do fine with open fermentation (WLP 022). There are those that are used in conicals by the brewery (WLP-002/Wyeast 1968). As Mark would say, know the yeast you are using and what makes it perform.

Amen to that. There are times when I want to quit futzing around with a bunch of ale strains and just pick one that's fairly versatile, know how it performs under every condition I brew, and use that information to brew a whole span of ale styles. WLP007 might be that strain if I ever decided to go that route. Quite clean at the lower end and nice English character at higher temps. Relatively easy to work with, too.

And sorry for severely derailing this Brewtan B train.

This forum flourishes on derailments! Seems to be how we learn...

My "Yorkshire circle" idea is tailored to yeast that demand a lot of O₂, yes. Everyone has different aspects of the hobby that keep them going. I've been playing around with this idea for a while, hoping to put it into practice soon. While I don't intend to brew these beers using true low oxygen methods, the brewtan b/low O₂ discussions on here have helped me tweak my ideas some.

[Philbrew]

So, Brewtan B finally arrived from Australia.  Is the recommended dose still?

1/4 tsp. per 5 gal. in your strike water.

1/2 tsp. mixed in a slurry 15 min. before end of boil, before any other finings you might use.

Also, does Brewtan have any affect on mash PH?

[HoosierBrew]

So, Brewtan B finally arrived from Australia.  Is the recommended dose still?

1/4 tsp. per 5 gal. in your strike water.

1/2 tsp. mixed in a slurry 15 min. before end of boil, before any other finings you might use.

Also, does Brewtan have any affect on mash PH?

Yeah, 1/4 tsp per 5 gallons of all water including sparge, and the 1/2 tsp slurry @ 15. Denny posted and I believe Joe said in the podcast that there is no effect on pH.  I don't account for any influence on pH.

[Village Taphouse]

The one mod they made was the sparge water (or at least I wasn't doing that originally).  So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.  I know it's going to be awhile before you used it and then sample the beer you used it in, but please let the board know your impressions when you taste the brewtan beers.  There still doesn't seem to be any hard-leaning opinions.

[denny]

The one mod they made was the sparge water (or at least I wasn't doing that originally).  So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.  I know it's going to be awhile before you used it and then sample the beer you used it in, but please let the board know your impressions when you taste the brewtan beers.  There still doesn't seem to be any hard-leaning opinions.

Yeah, I had originally missed that Joe said to add to sparge water.  The EB brewtan beers should be done around mid Dec.  I don't really expect any initial tasting results before the first of the year.

[HoosierBrew]

So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Yeah, that's what I've been going with since the podcast. Gonna keg a couple batches done that way in the next week or two. Curious to see if I see any difference to the first few. +1 to everybody posting their results/impressions.

[beersk]

So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Yeah, that's what I've been going with since the podcast. Gonna keg a couple batches done that way in the next week or two. Curious to see if I see any difference to the first few. +1 to everybody posting their results/impressions.

I kegged a pale ale last week, which was the first of the Brewtan beers I did with the addition to the sparge water as well, and the beer tasted REALLY bright and amazingly good. Maybe I was imagining it, I'll see in a couple weeks when I tap it.

[denny]

So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Yeah, that's what I've been going with since the podcast. Gonna keg a couple batches done that way in the next week or two. Curious to see if I see any difference to the first few. +1 to everybody posting their results/impressions.

I kegged a pale ale last week, which was the first of the Brewtan beers I did with the addition to the sparge water as well, and the beer tasted REALLY bright and amazingly good. Maybe I was imagining it, I'll see in a couple weeks when I tap it.

Good to know!  Looks like we'll end up with 13 brewers for the experiment, each having multiple blind tasters.  I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

[The Beerery]

So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Yeah, that's what I've been going with since the podcast. Gonna keg a couple batches done that way in the next week or two. Curious to see if I see any difference to the first few. +1 to everybody posting their results/impressions.

I kegged a pale ale last week, which was the first of the Brewtan beers I did with the addition to the sparge water as well, and the beer tasted REALLY bright and amazingly good. Maybe I was imagining it, I'll see in a couple weeks when I tap it.

With or without other low oxygen methods?

[beersk]

So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Yeah, that's what I've been going with since the podcast. Gonna keg a couple batches done that way in the next week or two. Curious to see if I see any difference to the first few. +1 to everybody posting their results/impressions.

I kegged a pale ale last week, which was the first of the Brewtan beers I did with the addition to the sparge water as well, and the beer tasted REALLY bright and amazingly good. Maybe I was imagining it, I'll see in a couple weeks when I tap it.

With or without other low oxygen methods?

This one was actually done without preboiling, but I siphoned my strike and sparge water in and mashed with a foil mash cap, if I recall correctly. So basically no, not low oxygen brewed. I wanted to see how I'd feel about it with just the Brewtan.
I wasn't even thinking about the Brewtan when I tasted it, it just tasted amazingly good when I sampled it. So who knows if it was because of the Brewtan or just the recipe...

[denny]

This one was actually done without preboiling, but I siphoned my strike and sparge water in and mashed with a foil mash cap, if I recall correctly. So basically no, not low oxygen brewed. I wanted to see how I'd feel about it with just the Brewtan.
I wasn't even thinking about the Brewtan when I tasted it, it just tasted amazingly good when I sampled it. So who knows if it was because of the Brewtan or just the recipe...

That's why I think it will be interesting to have 50+ tasters evaluating different beers.

[Philbrew]

The one mod they made was the sparge water (or at least I wasn't doing that originally).  So now I go with ¼ tsp in the mash (5 gallons of strike water) plus about 1/8th tsp in the 3 gallons of sparge water and then the ½ tsp mixed with water and added about 15 minutes before the end of the boil.  I know it's going to be awhile before you used it and then sample the beer you used it in, but please let the board know your impressions when you taste the brewtan beers.  There still doesn't seem to be any hard-leaning opinions.

I do full volume BIAB in the kettle, so no sparge water.
I'm also going to do some LODO things in the first batch with Brewtan so it will be hard to separate improvements, if any.