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Author Topic: where did I go wrong  (Read 5152 times)

Offline treyspadoni

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2016, 08:21:41 pm »
When I first started AG brewing the pH of my mash water was an issue. The water in the part of Florida I live in reaches a pH of almost 8. My OGs were always lower than expected. I started using pH stabilizer and that solve my problem.


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RPIScotty

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2016, 04:03:24 am »
When I first started AG brewing the pH of my mash water was an issue. The water in the part of Florida I live in reaches a pH of almost 8. My OGs were always lower than expected. I started using pH stabilizer and that solve my problem.


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Water pH really isn't an indicator of how your brewing water will perform.

Offline blair.streit

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where did I go wrong
« Reply #17 on: June 02, 2016, 05:03:14 am »
When I first started AG brewing the pH of my mash water was an issue. The water in the part of Florida I live in reaches a pH of almost 8. My OGs were always lower than expected. I started using pH stabilizer and that solve my problem.


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Water pH really isn't an indicator of how your brewing water will perform.
Nope. My water pH is 9.2 but my Residual Alkalinity is low enough that I only add ~2mL of lactic acid even in paler beers.

You really need to use a calculator like Bru'n Water or Brewer's Friend to see the full picture with mash pH (including your grain bill).

RPIScotty

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #18 on: June 02, 2016, 06:01:05 am »
When I first started AG brewing the pH of my mash water was an issue. The water in the part of Florida I live in reaches a pH of almost 8. My OGs were always lower than expected. I started using pH stabilizer and that solve my problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Water pH really isn't an indicator of how your brewing water will perform.
Nope. My water pH is 9.2 but my Residual Alkalinity is low enough that I only add ~2mL of lactic acid even in paler beers.

You really need to use a calculator like Bru'n Water or Brewer's Friend to see the full picture with mash pH (including your grain bill).

Martin just released a revised and streamlined free version of Brun Water. It is aimed at simplifying the structure of the free version to be more inviting and user friendly for newcomers to water adjustment.

Check it out.

Offline scarecrow

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2016, 08:57:06 pm »
So I think I realized where I made a mistake last time after brewing today. When I added my 154 degree water to start my mash I don't think I contemplated for the loss of temp as the water and grains mixed. Today while brewing I almost made the same mistake and checked the temp to see it had dropped from my 154 to a 132 within 30 minutes. So after talking with a friend who all grains he told me to throw the entire mash into my boil kettle and raise the temp back to 154 then pour it back into my mash tun. My question for you guys is how do you maintain that mash temp in the mash cooler? My SG for this latest batch which is a Kolsch is a 1.058 according to the recipe it should of been a 1.048 but Ill take it as that means more sugars. Does this sound about right?

Offline Stevie

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where did I go wrong
« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2016, 09:19:29 pm »
You need to heat your strike water to your "strike" temp, not your mash temp. This temp will vary based on amount of grain and thickness of mash. Calculators exist online, and formulas can be found in how to brew.

As for keeping temp, I loose 1-2 degrees over the span of a 60-90 minute mash in my coolers. Don't open the lid and you won't need to worry.

Offline natebrews

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2016, 09:24:13 pm »
You shouldn't have to maintain a mash if it is in a cooler.  You will have to bring your strike water up high enough to compensate for the grain and cooler being colder.  When I use my cooler (10g igloo) I bring my strike water up to mash temp + some and use 4gal of strike water.  The amount of the  "+ some" depends on how cold the other things are.  This time of year (in new england), I can use strike water at 162 to get a mash temp of 152.  In the winter, I have to have my strike water closer to 170 to get the same result. 

After mixing the stuff together in the cooler, I check the temp and then adjust with hot/cold water to get where I need to be.  After doing it enough of them, you will be able to pretty reliably guess within a couple degrees. 

Once things are mixed and at the right temp, I put the top on the cooler and might see 2 deg F change in 90 minutes.  The cooler certainly shouldn't be losing 10s of degrees. 

Remember, you have to compensate for the thermal mass of the grain and the cooler too (unless you pre-heat it). 
Risk of failure should be no deterrent to trying.

Offline juggabrew303

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2016, 09:40:52 pm »
Agree with the two previous post.  IMO, focus on learning the process and your equipment to dial in these calculations.  This being your first couple batches, PH shouldn't be a priority at this point.  My $.02


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Offline scarecrow

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2016, 12:33:09 pm »
You need to heat your strike water to your "strike" temp, not your mash temp. This temp will vary based on amount of grain and thickness of mash. Calculators exist online, and formulas can be found in how to brew.

As for keeping temp, I loose 1-2 degrees over the span of a 60-90 minute mash in my coolers. Don't open the lid and you won't need to worry.
I found an app for arrow water calculating it ask for mask thickness, how do I figure this out if I have 8lbs of grains?

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Offline Stevie

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #24 on: August 22, 2016, 12:45:40 pm »
Mash thickness ranges from 1-2 qts per pound traditionally. Many will play with varying thicknesses and settle where they feel they get the best performance.  I like 1.7 qts per pound. BIAB and no sparge Brewers may use a much thinner mash.

I'd start at 1.5 and see what you think.

Offline scarecrow

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #25 on: August 22, 2016, 03:02:02 pm »
Mash thickness ranges from 1-2 qts per pound traditionally. Many will play with varying thicknesses and settle where they feel they get the best performance.  I like 1.7 qts per pound. BIAB and no sparge Brewers may use a much thinner mash.

I'd start at 1.5 and see what you think.
Thanks for the help.

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Offline brewinhard

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #26 on: August 22, 2016, 04:18:33 pm »

After mixing the stuff together in the cooler, I check the temp and then adjust with hot/cold water to get where I need to be.  After doing it enough of them, you will be able to pretty reliably guess within a couple degrees. 


I usually err on a degree or two hotter than what specific mash temp I am shooting for.  It is always easier to cool down a mash with a couple ice cubes/gentle stirring vs heating up a "cooler"...

Offline HoosierBrew

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #27 on: August 22, 2016, 04:25:19 pm »
I usually err on a degree or two hotter than what specific mash temp I am shooting for.  It is always easier to cool down a mash with a couple ice cubes/gentle stirring vs heating up a "cooler"...


^^ No joke.
Jon H.

Offline brewinhard

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2016, 05:17:23 pm »
Got the ice cube trick from you and Denny here!  I make mine with distilled water so as not to offset the pH too much. Works great.

Offline HoosierBrew

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Re: where did I go wrong
« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2016, 05:18:56 pm »
Got the ice cube trick from you and Denny here!  I make mine with distilled water so as not to offset the pH too much. Works great.


Nice. I make RO cubes. Same idea !
Jon H.