[kgs]

RPIScotty, we're very similar in our brewing behavior (small batches, no interest in "going big") and I agree on 2.5 to 3 gallon kegs. Should you ever step up in size, they'll still be useful, and since you fill them with CO2, you don't need to worry about too much headspace for even smaller batches. Just don't do what I did and buy three different small kegs, as their parts may be slightly different. :-/  All three kegs have worked out great, though.

If your local CO2 source only offers exchange versus filling, then there is no point to buying a tank, so research that question first. I bought a new 5-lb CO2 tank after researching the local options. It's only a little taller than my tallest small keg. I'm a little OCD about owning "my" gear when it comes to gases so I prefer to have my own tank and have it filled (I don't exchange my propane tank, either, after hassling with a couple of bad tanks 15 years ago or so). The local stores fill by weight, and they also won't fill paintball tanks, so that wrapped up my options pretty neatly. It's on my "git list" to buy a second tank. I am thinking of a 2.5 lb tank simply to have one that's super-portable; that's the smallest size I can get filled locally, and with small batches, that's still a lot of CO2.

I also bought a regulator gauge guard and some cheap bungy cords -- the latter secure the tank and keg upright in the fridge in case the Big One hits. I then built a four-port gas manifold using parts from the LHBS. I leak-checked the manifold and it's ready to go, but I've been so busy this spring I have only had one keg going at a time.

Kegging has its own challenges, but the first time I kegged my beer I realized that was the way for me. My "git list" also has a beer gun on it, for when I want to gift beer. Otherwise, goodbye messy bottling, and hello, the fun of kegging (and it is pretty interesting).

[blair.streit]

I have a 2.5G from AHS and a couple of 2.5G Torpedo Kegs (as well as some 5G Torpedo).

I've ended up standardizing on the Torpedos. I like the way the dip tube and bottom design maximize beer uptake. I also like that there's no rubber residue from washing them (old soda kegs always left black streaks where I drug them. Finally, I like the stackable nature of the Torpedos.

See if there's a difference in being able to stack two Torpedos vertically versus two of the AHS ones.

If there's no stacking advantage I think the rest are minor design differences and probably more personal preference.

[RPIScotty]

Quick question: can you use gas to transfer from your ferm bucket  to bottles?

[erockrph]

Quick question: can you use gas to transfer from your ferm bucket  to bottles?

It would be hard from a bucket. You might be able to pull it off if you drilled a second hole in the lid. Racking cane goes in one hole and gas in the other. As long as it holds a good seal it could work.

[RPIScotty]

Quick question: can you use gas to transfer from your ferm bucket  to bottles?

It would be hard from a bucket. You might be able to pull it off if you drilled a second hole in the lid. Racking cane goes in one hole and gas in the other. As long as it holds a good seal it could work.

It should only take 1-2 psi to get the beer moving right?

[beersk]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

[RPIScotty]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

I don't currently have kegs, or a fridge/freezer, or any of the other equipment.

I'm looking to start piece parting a keg setup and found a gentleman selling his CO2 tank, regulator and various keg replacement parts (posts, connectors, etc.) on Craigslist. It would be nice to have the ability to do closed transfer with low, low pressure out of my bucket as I accumulate the necessary kegging equipment over time.

My plan is to start kegging. The initial investment, going whole hog wild h everything upfront, is currently not an option for me. I can, however, piece part the setup.

[blair.streit]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

It would be nice to have the ability to do closed transfer with low, low pressure out of my bucket as I accumulate the necessary kegging equipment over time.

I've seen several build-ups using low-pressure secondary regulators to give you the "fine tuning" ability to regulate to 1-2 PSI without the risk of accidentally "over-cranking" to 7 and blowing the lid off your fermenter

I haven't found one that seemed simple enough for me to pull the trigger on yet, but I'm planning to do the same thing for my SS BrewBucket (which has a spigot) and a couple other fermentors that don't have spigots (so would use my SS racking cane and low CO2 to achieve the same thing). I also like the idea of being able to "push" the beer because you could pit gravity "against" the flow and have an easy way to quickly remove pressure and stop the flow (i.e. if the cane slips into a big wad of yeast).

[RPIScotty]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

It would be nice to have the ability to do closed transfer with low, low pressure out of my bucket as I accumulate the necessary kegging equipment over time.

I've seen several build-ups using low-pressure secondary regulators to give you the "fine tuning" ability to regulate to 1-2 PSI without the risk of accidentally "over-cranking" to 7 and blowing the lid off your fermenter

I haven't found one that seemed simple enough for me to pull the trigger on yet, but I'm planning to do the same thing for my SS BrewBucket (which has a spigot) and a couple other fermentors that don't have spigots (so would use my SS racking cane and low CO2 to achieve the same thing). I also like the idea of being able to "push" the beer because you could pit gravity "against" the flow and have an easy way to quickly remove pressure and stop the flow (i.e. if the cane slips into a big wad of yeast).

My setup right now isn't all that bad but I'm definitely introducing air when going from ferm to bottle bucket.

I have 2 two gal buckets. One for ferm and one for bottling. Both have plastic ball valves and hose barbs on the exterior. I use a snug grommet in the lid for my dial thermometer and an airlock. Draining from ferm to bottling bucket goes pretty well as I have a hose barb in the bottling bucket lid.

I guess I'd just like to do no O2 transferring to minimize O2 into my bottles beers.

[dilluh98]

Now that you have the CO2 and regulator one thing you can do to minimize O2 pickup is to fill your bottling bucket with CO2 before racking. CO2 is heavier than air and should provide at least some protection from oxidation if you rack carefully to the bottom of the bottling bucket. It's not closed transfer nor a perfect solution but it's one more step in the right direction and very quick and easy to do.

[erockrph]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

It would be nice to have the ability to do closed transfer with low, low pressure out of my bucket as I accumulate the necessary kegging equipment over time.

I've seen several build-ups using low-pressure secondary regulators to give you the "fine tuning" ability to regulate to 1-2 PSI without the risk of accidentally "over-cranking" to 7 and blowing the lid off your fermenter

I haven't found one that seemed simple enough for me to pull the trigger on yet, but I'm planning to do the same thing for my SS BrewBucket (which has a spigot) and a couple other fermentors that don't have spigots (so would use my SS racking cane and low CO2 to achieve the same thing). I also like the idea of being able to "push" the beer because you could pit gravity "against" the flow and have an easy way to quickly remove pressure and stop the flow (i.e. if the cane slips into a big wad of yeast).

My setup right now isn't all that bad but I'm definitely introducing air when going from ferm to bottle bucket.

I have 2 two gal buckets. One for ferm and one for bottling. Both have plastic ball valves and hose barbs on the exterior. I use a snug grommet in the lid for my dial thermometer and an airlock. Draining from ferm to bottling bucket goes pretty well as I have a hose barb in the bottling bucket lid.

I guess I'd just like to do no O2 transferring to minimize O2 into my bottles beers.

If you're bottle conditioning it's not much of an issue since the yeast will scavenge the O2 during conditioning.

[RPIScotty]

I guess I'll just start saving for kegging equipment then. I need a few pieces of must have gear prior to getting kegging anyway.

[dilluh98]

I guess I don't understand how that will make a difference. Why not just use a keg as a bottling vessel? It's what I do when I bottle. Hook up a picnic tap, push with low PSI. Works great.

It would be nice to have the ability to do closed transfer with low, low pressure out of my bucket as I accumulate the necessary kegging equipment over time.

I've seen several build-ups using low-pressure secondary regulators to give you the "fine tuning" ability to regulate to 1-2 PSI without the risk of accidentally "over-cranking" to 7 and blowing the lid off your fermenter

I haven't found one that seemed simple enough for me to pull the trigger on yet, but I'm planning to do the same thing for my SS BrewBucket (which has a spigot) and a couple other fermentors that don't have spigots (so would use my SS racking cane and low CO2 to achieve the same thing). I also like the idea of being able to "push" the beer because you could pit gravity "against" the flow and have an easy way to quickly remove pressure and stop the flow (i.e. if the cane slips into a big wad of yeast).

My setup right now isn't all that bad but I'm definitely introducing air when going from ferm to bottle bucket.

I have 2 two gal buckets. One for ferm and one for bottling. Both have plastic ball valves and hose barbs on the exterior. I use a snug grommet in the lid for my dial thermometer and an airlock. Draining from ferm to bottling bucket goes pretty well as I have a hose barb in the bottling bucket lid.

I guess I'd just like to do no O2 transferring to minimize O2 into my bottles beers.

If you're bottle conditioning it's not much of an issue since the yeast will scavenge the O2 during conditioning.

+1.

Although yeast isn't going to help on the hop aroma front. But, bottle conditioning high hop aroma IPA is tough for anyone to do well.

[beersk]

+1.

Although yeast isn't going to help on the hop aroma front. But, bottle conditioning high hop aroma IPA is tough for anyone to do well.

Agreed. This is why I feel Deschutes' beers are lacking. Bottle conditioning does not serve hoppy beers well. Although, now I'm doing some natty carbonating in kegs while they wait for an opening in the kegerator. Interested to see how that affects the flavor and stability of the beer. One of them is a rye pale ale...we'll see.

[beersk]

I'm currently trying to figure out how I can top crop while fermenting in a keg. I think I can do it if I have a long handled ladle. With 3 gallon batches, a 5 gallon low profile keg is perfect to ferment in. Just the only thing holding me back is top cropping; it's so much fun and having uber fresh yeast for every batch is a wonderful wonderful thing.