[Philbrew]

Given the points of evidence that I have, my guess is that my SMB dose was too high and if I dial back the dosing then the sulfur might go away.  From what others have said, it doesn't sound like this strain is just a big sulfur producer (which would be odd for an english strain) so I imagine it is something specific to my batch.

As to the clarity, if you used gelatin then I'm not really any surprise that you have crystal clear beer.  I know if I gelatin a keg, inside of a couple days it is brilliant.  The only thing that I have used that didn't go brilliant after two days with gelatin was a kolsch.   

I used 50 mg/L SMB.

[natebrews]

hm, that is the same rate that I used but I have no idea what my consumption rate is. 

What kind of setup are you using?  Mine is a cooler with an infusion mash (underlet and capped).  I also used the yeast scavenging method to de-oxygenate the strike/sparge water.

[stpug]

I still haven't had a chance to use this strain, and now that we know more about it I'm a little dissapointed. I was hoping for a dry version of 1318 or 1968 but the low attenuation and sulfur might be a deal breaker. I ordered some, but the shop was out of it so they gave me 002 instead.

Low attenuation is something to simply be aware of and plan for.

Sulfur is only related to low O2 mashing processes using NaMeta. If you don't use sulfites, then you shouldn't experience any sulfur.

[natebrews]

My only real contention with this yeast (as stated previously) are it's floc'ing characteristics.  I could certainly see myself keeping a pack of this in the fridge as a backup yeast.  I keep a US05 and a 34/70 in the fridge for the same reason. 

[Philbrew]

hm, that is the same rate that I used but I have no idea what my consumption rate is. 

What kind of setup are you using?  Mine is a cooler with an infusion mash (underlet and capped).  I also used the yeast scavenging method to de-oxygenate the strike/sparge water.

I'm kind of an oddball (according to my wife).  I do BIAB in the kettle with a floating cap and pump recirculation.  No sparge and pre-boil to de-oxy.  Also floating cap during cool down and hop whirlpool.  My process probably eats more SMB than yours.

[skyler]

Well, things may have worked out well for me with this yeast by luck. I missed this forum post and assumed that this was a dry version of 1968 from the description. I opted for 6.8% dextrose in my recipe and I mashed at 152 (75% pils, 10% wheat malt, 6.5% CaraHell, 6.5% Dextrose, and 2% acidulated malt).

I think I might try it next split with S-04 or maybe 1968 in a bitter that's mostly golden promise and a little dextrose with some Willamette and Yakima Goldings.

[natebrews]

I would definitely be interested to hear what you think of a side by side of 1968 and this one.  I'm going to dump my bitter that I made with this stuff tonight so I can rebrew it with 1968 Thursday. 

[PORTERHAUS]

I didnt read this thread word for word yet but results with this new dry yeast seem to vary.

I picked up a pack and plan on using it soon. Not sure on what just yet but most likely a Porter or A Bitter.

[natebrews]

Just for those interested:

The bitter that I made started at 1.040 and ended at 1.011, mashed at 152F for 45minutes, fermented in the low 60s and raised to 70F at the end of the ferment.  That is 72% attenuation, so pretty typical English attenuation levels. 

Despite the horrid sulfur in the beer (I don't blame the yeast for that one), I did notice that it seems to have a heavier mouthfeel than I have gotten from 1968 and 1469 for the same beer. 

Still hazy though, 2+ weeks in the keg.

[kgs]

I'm going to try this yeast tomorrow, assuming the LHBS carries it and the other stuff I want. I adapted the following recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. ESB is the first style I ever brewed, from an extract kit I bought in Jan 2009.

I'm mulling over buying RO water and then treating it. Regardless, it will be beer. There is one process change: fermenting in a bucket with a spigot, so I can drain directly into a purged keg.

Interregnum ESB (2.5 gallons)

6 lbs Golden Promise
4 oz Crystal 15L
2 oz Crystal 120L
.75 oz Kent Goldings 5% AA 60 min
1.25 oz Kent Goldings 5% AA whirlpool
1/2 tab whirfloc
1 packet Lallemand London Premium ESB Yeast
Campden tablet in bottled spring water

Mash 152 (no sparge)
Ferment 68
Carbonate 1.75 vol
Maybe toss .5 oz hops in the keg in a small weighted bag

[natebrews]

Is the campden tablet really needed for bottled water?  I can't imagine that there is any chlorine in it (ok, I can imagine it). 

[kgs]

Is the campden tablet really needed for bottled water?  I can't imagine that there is any chlorine in it (ok, I can imagine it).

I don't know if bottled water has chloramine in it, but I also don't know how to test for it, particularly if I'm buying bottled water, and by all reports campden reliably removes it. Interestingly I was reading up on LODO this morning, and adding sodium metabisulfite supposedly scavenges oxygen. I use half a tablet, crushed, in the strike water, and it's one of those "if it doesn't hurt anything I'll keep doing it" parts of my process, like skimming hot break.

I just Googled "campden tablets shelf life" -- if I think it's that important I should replace them, as I bought this bottle in 2010. :-)

[natebrews]

I always toss in 0.5 to 1 tablet to dechloronate the water I'm using (separate from the LODO things I have been trying lately).  For that, I have been using tablets that are probably 15 years old and I have never had a chlorophenol problem with the exception of the batch that I forgot to put it in (it sucks holding the stuff in your hand in front of the already full mashtun).  So, they probably degrade with time but not fast.

[Steve Ruch]

I don't know if bottled water has chloramine in it, but I also don't know how to test for it, particularly if I'm buying bottled water,

I'm pretty sure that you can smell it. I'm also pretty sure that bottled water doesn't have any.

[kgs]

I don't know if bottled water has chloramine in it, but I also don't know how to test for it, particularly if I'm buying bottled water,

I'm pretty sure that you can smell it. I'm also pretty sure that bottled water doesn't have any.

Martin writes, "Complete chlorine and chloramine removal is required since chlorophenols can be tasted at very low levels (10 ppb)" ( https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge ). I'm not sure my nose could pick up a chloramine odor at that level. You're probably right about bottled water (I looked at Nestle's water report, and it was ND for chloramine), but if it doesn't harm the brewing process, I'll keep doing it. It wouldn't surprise me to learn that sometimes, "spring" water is tap water.