[The Beerery]

If by the product 5.2, I agree. If by the mash pH 5.2 I disagree. Here is why:
"It is therefore of interest to considerably reduce
the pH to 5.2.

• the range of enzymes is considerably improved
because all the important enzymes,
with the exception of p-amylase, are activated,
• at low pH-values more growth promoting
substances go into sol ution, e.g. the supply
of zinc is increased,
• the extract yield is increased,
• the protein excretion improves (better break
formation),
• the redox potential improves, a reduced susceptibility
to oxygen thereby develops,
lautering proceeds faster,
• colouring during wort boiling is suppressed,
• the activity of the phosphatases is promoted
and they strengthen the buffering capacity
through t he release of phosphates,
• fermentation is faster due to better trub excretion,
a faster drop in the pH and higher
degree of attenuation in the cellar,
• filtration is improved by lower viscosity values,
• the flavour is mellower, fuller and softer,
• the hop bittering is more pleasant and does
not linger,
• the beer is fresh, and has a fresher, stronger
and more characteristic taste,
• the foam has finer bubbles and is more stable,
• the colour of the beer is lighter,
• a better flavour stability is to be expected,
particularly as the lipoxygenase is sensitive
to pH values below 5.2 and is then no longer
effective,
• the chemical-physical stability is better, less
tendency to protein haze,
• digestion is aided, which is a positive effect
of the lactic acid,
• reduction of the biological susceptibility of
the beer because of:
• the low pH : beer spoiling organisms no
longer grow below a pH of 4.4,
• the higher degree of attenuation leading to
a lower amount of non-fermentable sugar,
and hence
• a greater pressure towards selectivity of the
yeast which forces back the beer-spoiling
competitors.
By reducing the pH value of the mash to 5.2, fewer ageing components are formed. The mash acidification should only be used with well modified malts at temperatures above 60 °."

[dmtaylor]

I'm about 100% certain that Denny was referring to use of the commercial "5.2" product, not the actual measured pH.

[denny]

I'm about 100% certain that Denny was referring to use of the commercial "5.2" product, not the actual measured pH.

Yes, I was answering a question about the product.

[curtdogg]

Regardless the outcome of this brew, I will have learned a great deal and will be able to take my experience and grow from it.

I don't know my water profile, but I think I should try to get it. I'm in the inland desert area of southern CA. about an hour NE of San Diego.

So if I ditch the pH5.2 product and use malts or other things to lower pH how would you recommend I calculate such a thing. Can Beer smith calculate the pH of the mash?

[Joe Sr.]

Download Brunwater. Spend some time with it.  It's a solid tool, but one that I'm not expert with.

[HoosierBrew]

Download Brunwater. Spend some time with it.  It's a solid tool, but one that I'm not expert with.

^^ It's great software. There are people here that can help with any questions.

[zwiller]

You should be able to find the water info online nowdays.  Start here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/water-profiles/

[curtdogg]

Thanks for the info guys, I didn't find my area in the link but I will ask on of the local breweries.
So I've since bottled my maple brown ale and transferred my oatmeal stout to secondary.

Should my bottled beer carbonate ok in the chest freezer? its currently at 67 degrees.

While transferring the stout I took a gravity reading (1.012) and got to taste it.
I think it tastes pretty good actually after having the pH and baking soda thing which I was concerned about having to start over.
There is a pleasant smokey flavor finished with a camfire ash burnt flavor.
It subsides quickly and isn't that bad. I am attributing the campfire flavor to the Black Patent.
Will a de bittered grain work better? ie; Black prince, caraffa. My homebrew show had midnight wheat. What do think about using something like that for color and body? I havnt read anything aboot it yet.

Cheers,
Curtis

[hopfenundmalz]

Thanks for the info guys, I didn't find my area in the link but I will ask on of the local breweries.
So I've since bottled my maple brown ale and transferred my oatmeal stout to secondary.

Should my bottled beer carbonate ok in the chest freezer? its currently at 67 degrees.

While transferring the stout I took a gravity reading (1.012) and got to taste it.
I think it tastes pretty good actually after having the pH and baking soda thing which I was concerned about having to start over.
There is a pleasant smokey flavor finished with a camfire ash burnt flavor.
It subsides quickly and isn't that bad. I am attributing the campfire flavor to the Black Patent.
Will a de bittered grain work better? ie; Black prince, caraffa. My homebrew show had midnight wheat. What do think about using something like that for color and body? I havnt read anything aboot it yet.

Cheers,
Curtis

Midnight Wheat is really good for color, no husk, so minimal acrid flavor.

[JFMBearcat]

Agreed with the 5.2 and BruNWater recommendations. Ditch the 5.2 stablizer and use that software to build your water profile. Your beer will certainly improve. I always cringe when I read things like "just toss a tsp or so of gypsum in there" for hoppy beers or throw some baking soda in for dark beers when we have no idea of the water mineral content.

Also if you can't get a local report of your water, you can send in a sample of your water to Ward Labs and for about  $25 they will email you back a full report of mineral content. This is what I did and they got it back to me in a few days.

[curtdogg]

Agreed with the 5.2 and BruNWater recommendations. Ditch the 5.2 stablizer and use that software to build your water profile. Your beer will certainly improve. I always cringe when I read things like "just toss a tsp or so of gypsum in there" for hoppy beers or throw some baking soda in for dark beers when we have no idea of the water mineral content.

Also if you can't get a local report of your water, you can send in a sample of your water to Ward Labs and for about  $25 they will email you back a full report of mineral content. This is what I did and they got it back to me in a few days.

Being relatively new to brewing I took as gospel to add that baking soda. Totally my fault. Recently I tried the same mash recipe with a friend in the same city without adding baking soda and the pH was in the 5 range. Next time I brew I'll definitely test before adding anything and even look into this brewnwater thing.

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[JJeffers09]

If you start with RO you would be better off until you get your source water dialed in.  That is what I have been told at least so that's what I do?

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[curtdogg]

If you start with RO you would be better off until you get your source water dialed in.  That is what I have been told at least so that's what I do?

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Thank you sir. I'm definately going to start doing something about the water. I can get 5 gal of RO for $2.50. I'll have to read up on RO water and see what's stripped and what's left behind by reverse osmosis.

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[HoosierBrew]

I'll have to read up on RO water and see what's stripped and what's left behind by reverse osmosis.

If you use Brunwater and enter RO as 100%, it accounts for that. RO water from well maintained machines has only slightly higher mineral content than distilled, ie., not much.

[hopfenundmalz]

If you start with RO you would be better off until you get your source water dialed in.  That is what I have been told at least so that's what I do?

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Thank you sir. I'm definately going to start doing something about the water. I can get 5 gal of RO for $2.50. I'll have to read up on RO water and see what's stripped and what's left behind by reverse osmosis.

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A well maintained RO system takes out 99% of the minerals. You will have some left, but pretty much of no concern. A cheap TDS meter will tell you if your source is working properly.