[Philbrew]

If you drink enough, you'll forget all about it.

I'll drink to that.     Though "drink-to-forget" is a concept that has been around for several thousand years.

[Phil_M]

One way BIAB doesn't work is the whole "lift the grain out" thing is pretty much impossible to do without splashing.

[Stevie]

One way BIAB doesn't work is the whole "lift the grain out" thing is pretty much impossible to do without splashing.

I know a lot of diehard BIABers use hoists. It could be done slowly to prevent splashing. Adjusting the mechanical advantage of the pulleys would slow it way down while also reducing the effort of work.

[Phil_M]

But then you're losing one of the perceived advantages of BIAB, namely saving time. You'd have to lift it so slowly that all the liquid is allowed to slowly drain from the grain, which would be a long amount of time.

I used to BIAB. Having converted to a cooler mash tun, I really don't see much advantage to BIAB unless you're committed to only having one vessel.

[lupulus]

As Stevie mentioned, if you lift slowly there is no splashing. It is about 2 to 3 minutes.  At this time you have one liter of wort in the bag. If you discard this liter, you have less oxygen uptake than with any other method. You can also save this liter having it drip if you consider this minimal.
In transferring, even when to the bottom of the other vessel, you will get exposure to oxygen of the initial volume that you transfer; this exposure can be less than BIAB or can be more, I do not know.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[homoeccentricus]

I used to BIAB. Having converted to a cooler mash tun, I really don't see much advantage to BIAB unless you're committed to only having one vessel.

Guess what, no-sparge really works very well

[Philbrew]

One way BIAB doesn't work is the whole "lift the grain out" thing is pretty much impossible to do without splashing.

I know a lot of diehard BIABers use hoists. It could be done slowly to prevent splashing. Adjusting the mechanical advantage of the pulleys would slow it way down while also reducing the effort of work.

While I am "committed to a one vessel system" for storage reasons, pulling the bag slowly with no splash is easy and takes no extra time.  I have a two part ratcheting block and tackle http://www.brewinabag.com/collections/frontpage/products/pulley-metal-ratchet-250-lbs-capacity.  I pull the bag halfway and let drain for 5 min. while I do something else (weigh out hops or whatever).  Then pull it until it's just touching the wort and do something else for 5 min.  All the while the burner is on high.

[reverseapachemaster]

I am hardly an expert on the LODO technique but it seems like lifting the bag, no matter how slowly, creates opportunity for wort to suffer aeration even if it is just an amount draining off/out of the grain. There is also the inevitable wort squeezed out of the grain purely due to the weight of grain above that is descending through the air and splashing around in the wort beneath it.

I suppose this is not a problem if you use the bag purely as a filter and do not lift the grain bag out of the vessel.

[homoeccentricus]

Would an additional addition of smb  just prior to lifting the malt pipe/bag make sense? With a no-sparge the initial amount is only 50 ppm max.

[The Beerery]

I suppose this is not a problem if you use the bag purely as a filter and do not lift the grain bag out of the vessel.

This is exactly what I do on my 3 vessel system. A custom made fine mesh bag as a mash filter, and allows me to clean the mash tun super easy. It never gets touched /lifted until clean up time.

[The Beerery]

Would an additional addition of smb  just prior to lifting the malt pipe/bag make sense? With a no-sparge the initial amount is only 50 ppm max.

Without the sulfite test strips you won't know what you are consuming, so its hard to say.

[homoeccentricus]

Would an additional addition of smb  just prior to lifting the malt pipe/bag make sense? With a no-sparge the initial amount is only 50 ppm max.

Without the sulfite test strips you won't know what you are consuming, so its hard to say.

Say I buy those strips, I should measure 0-10 ppm before adding anything?

[The Beerery]

Would an additional addition of smb  just prior to lifting the malt pipe/bag make sense? With a no-sparge the initial amount is only 50 ppm max.

Without the sulfite test strips you won't know what you are consuming, so its hard to say.

Say I buy those strips, I should measure 0-10 ppm before adding anything?

You should measure 0

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/uncategorized/sulfite-testing-strips/

[homoeccentricus]

I have found these - https://www.allergenenconsultancy.nl/product/sneltestenanalyse/sulfiet-sneltest-quantofix where you have to bring the pH to 12 before measuring. Any good?

[The Beerery]

I have found these - https://www.allergenenconsultancy.nl/product/sneltestenanalyse/sulfiet-sneltest-quantofix where you have to bring the pH to 12 before measuring. Any good?

Edited my original response to include the links..