Author Topic: Reverse Osmosis pressure tanks  (Read 114 times)

Offline HopDen

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Reverse Osmosis pressure tanks
« on: February 21, 2018, 11:26:20 PM »
I don't know what I don't know! With that being stated, can i or should I and to what benefit or detriment, bypass or eliminate the pressure tank on a RO system? I'm thinking that if I can eliminate the tank then I will be able to produce a higher volume of water. Street side water pressure is variably 55-65 psi.





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Offline Robert

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Re: Reverse Osmosis pressure tanks
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2018, 11:44:42 PM »
I have a RO unit without a tank that I bought just for brewing water.  If you can bypass your tank it's a good idea.  It's not just about the rate of production.  The rejection of the membrane increases with the pressure differential between the in and out sides.  You can't do anything to increase your street pressure, but by not having the back pressure of a tank, you can increase the differential and get water with lower TDS (and faster too.)
Rob
Akron, Ohio

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Offline IPAnic

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Re: Reverse Osmosis pressure tanks
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2018, 12:18:30 AM »
For many years, I have had an RO system in my kitchen sink that I use for drinking water, coffee and brewing. I employ a bladder vessel "pressure tank" because I can fill a drinking glass in a few seconds and several gallons in a minute or two. If you're looking to collect 15-20 gallons you may notice a small improvement in water production without the bladder tank. It's important to note that in most systems, the bladder inside the "pressure tank" only requires 6-9 lbs. of compressed air before you start up the system. So if you leave your faucet/valve fully open (collecting water) until the bladder tank is empty, the city water pressure (60-100 lbs) is only pushing against 6-9 lbs. of pressure inside the bladder. I can't believe there's a significant loss of production. Plus, as Alton Brown would say "the only "unitasker" in the kitchen should be a fire extinguisher".