[HoosierBrew]

that's a lot of crystal malt OP (25%).  also I think you're in stout range with that grist, giving it the eyeball test.  might want to rethink that - I like the 1% roasted malts and using the crystal weights to target the color you want. 

bear in mind, even mashing low, you may still not get high 70s attenuation. 

that Old Chub recipe (isn't that Oskar Blues name?) looks pretty tasty too.

Yeah, I'd drop the carapils in a heartbeat, even if they use it. Can't see the benefit in a beer that big. That would help.

[stpug]

that Old Chub recipe (isn't that Oskar Blues name?) looks pretty tasty too.

I will never keep those two breweries straight .  Thanks for catching that (I edited the post).

[JJeffers09]

Brewed this up today.  Settled on scratching the carapils.  My efficiency was much lower than I am used to.  Maris Otter GP blended base dark crystal roasted barley and black.  Close Edinburgh (boiled) water profile pH 5.32 measured, but Brunwater put it at 5.2.  I got 63.2% efficiency? Step mashed 144F/152/158/MO.  So boiled for the rough 75% 1.086.  Ended up with about 7.25 gallons.  Ended up being 2hr15m boil but hops added at 90mins.  Pushed calculated IBUs up but I will know for next time.  The boiled down wort tasted really roasted.  Like straight up black malt.  I added it in good faith but, wow it was rough.

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[mabrungard]

I'm of the opinion that the Strong Scotch is a stronger variant of a regular Scottish Ale. Here is my Scottish Promise recipe (Scottish 70) that I enjoy. 5.5 gal batch

38 oz Golden Promise
32 oz 2-row Pale
15 oz Simpson Medium Crystal
9 oz Honey Malt
9 oz Munich 1
2 oz Crisp Brown Malt (for a teeny smoke note)
3 oz Crisp Pale Chocolate Malt
3 oz Simpsons Extra Dark Crystal
9 gm Brewers Gold pellets at 8.7% for 60 min
Clean ale yeast
Edinburgh water profile (over 100 ppm sulfate!)

Be careful, this recipe may be skimpy for other brewers since this assumes 87% system efficiency. Scale the recipe to your efficiency. I also take a quart of the first runnings and boil them down to magma and try to get its temperature to near 350F (this is really tough to do well without burning).

If you subscribe to Jamil Z's theory, to produce the variation in strength for these beer style variants, you just adjust only the base malts and leave the specialty malt quantities alone. I have not scaled this recipe to the Strong Scotch level, but it should work.

The light hopping and the sulfate in the water help this beer dry out quite well while still letting the malt through to dominate. Remember, sulfate does not make beer bitter, it makes them dryer finishing.

JJeffers090, that recipe seems to employ significant roast malt. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that there is significant roast notes in the beer. I hope not. This could be a case where the drying effect of using the Edinburgh water may be too much. Remember that roast grains have a drying effect also. I don't think much is needed in a Strong Scotch.

[JJeffers09]

I'm of the opinion that the Strong Scotch is a stronger variant of a regular Scottish Ale. Here is my Scottish Promise recipe (Scottish 70) that I enjoy. 5.5 gal batch

38 oz Golden Promise
32 oz 2-row Pale
15 oz Simpson Medium Crystal
9 oz Honey Malt
9 oz Munich 1
2 oz Crisp Brown Malt (for a teeny smoke note)
3 oz Crisp Pale Chocolate Malt
3 oz Simpsons Extra Dark Crystal
9 gm Brewers Gold pellets at 8.7% for 60 min
Clean ale yeast
Edinburgh water profile (over 100 ppm sulfate!)

Be careful, this recipe may be skimpy for other brewers since this assumes 87% system efficiency. Scale the recipe to your efficiency. I also take a quart of the first runnings and boil them down to magma and try to get its temperature to near 350F (this is really tough to do well without burning).

If you subscribe to Jamil Z's theory, to produce the variation in strength for these beer style variants, you just adjust only the base malts and leave the specialty malt quantities alone. I have not scaled this recipe to the Strong Scotch level, but it should work.

The light hopping and the sulfate in the water help this beer dry out quite well while still letting the malt through to dominate. Remember, sulfate does not make beer bitter, it makes them dryer finishing.

JJeffers090, that recipe seems to employ significant roast malt. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that there is significant roast notes in the beer. I hope not. This could be a case where the drying effect of using the Edinburgh water may be too much. Remember that roast grains have a drying effect also. I don't think much is needed in a Strong Scotch.

Ended up with 3.3% roasted malts or .75#/7.2gal  I know it is higher than most, but again cloning founders DB it seemed in the ballpark.  Time will tell, and that recipe looks great! Thanks Martin, if this turns to sh*t I will be brewing that up.

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