[natebrews]

I don't think a couple ounces of starsan would matter in several gallons, but what might be more interesting is if the yeast that are still active after transfer consume it or not.  Starsan that is in the fermentor (I imagine Saniclean is the same way) will be consumed by the yeast as food.  That was something that was said by a 5 star person on a BN show (I think it was Brew Strong, many years ago).

Perhaps that only happens at the beginning of fermentation, but if not then it would seem reasonable that the yeast would eat it up while they finish the job, along with any oxygen left in there and the rest of the sugar.

[Philbrew]

I have less than an ounce left over in the keg. I'm confident enough to use iodophor at 12.5ppm over starsan. I would worry even less if it was starsan, I just don't want to deal with the foam and iodophor is dirt cheap.

By filling through the beer out, I get around the foam issue but it's slow.  I make up StarSan with RO water so I reuse it many times.

I'd like to use Iodophor sometime though.  How much do you put in 5 gal. to get 12.5 ppm?

[Stevie]

I have less than an ounce left over in the keg. I'm confident enough to use iodophor at 12.5ppm over starsan. I would worry even less if it was starsan, I just don't want to deal with the foam and iodophor is dirt cheap.

By filling through the beer out, I get around the foam issue but it's slow.  I make up StarSan with RO water so I reuse it many times.

I'd like to use Iodophor sometime though.  How much do you put in 5 gal. to get 12.5 ppm?

I too save my starsan, but don't have an easy way to rack from my bucket to the keg. All of my racking tubes have flares on them as I go in through the beer out.

1/2oz BTF iodophor to 5 gallons is 12.5ppm. I've seen at least one brand that is not as concentrated, so that's why I listed the solution concentration and not the amount of concentrate.

[narvin]

Going back to your keg purge, one question that keeps nagging me is - aren't you always leaving at least some sanitizer behind in the keg?  Even my kegs with untrimmed dip tubes leave at least a few ounces of sludge when the keg kicks.  I know StarSan is not toxic, so you guys are simple rolling with it and incorporating some sanitizer into your beer?  I can see how it maybe wouldn't matter in a standard-size batch, but I would think it would make a difference with the small batch brewers.

The only reason that much sludge gets left behind is because it's sediment, not liquid. If your dip tube goes to the center of the divot like it should, you won't leave more than a teaspoon of sanitizer.

I'm also not concerned about star san at that dilution; if anything, it's acidic which will brighten your beer up 

[braufessor]

If I was going to purchase a couple spending valves.... any specific recommendations?  Thanks

[natebrews]

I got the one from
homebrewing.org (AIH) and it seems to be fine.  They say it only goes to 15psi, but you can set it higher.  Mine is usually around 20

[beersk]

I got the one from
homebrewing.org (AIH) and it seems to be fine.  They say it only goes to 15psi, but you can set it higher.  Mine is usually around 20

Not finding it on their site. Have a link?

[stpug]

I got the one from
homebrewing.org (AIH) and it seems to be fine.  They say it only goes to 15psi, but you can set it higher.  Mine is usually around 20

Not finding it on their site. Have a link?

I had a hard time tracking it down but this is what I found on their site:
http://www.homebrewing.org/Adjustable-Pressure-Relief-Valve-w-Gauge_p_1813.html

[natebrews]

Yeah, that is the one I have.  I have 6batches on it so far and it has worked perfectly.

[HoosierBrew]

I've been tied up with extra work hours/kid activities, so in spite of being a DIY guy, I went lazy and bought the Morebeer one. Its only drawback is its gauge which is limited to 15 psi. Great for lagers, not so much for ales. Luckily I had a spare 30 psi gauge in the garage and put it on the valve instead. Now I like it really well. Word to the wise - leak check it thoroughly. My first batch using it wouldn't hold full pressure until I found a small pinhole leak on the bottom. Tightened up all connections and it's ready to rock.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-qd-adjustable-pressure-valve-wgauge.html
 
 

[Phil_M]

I've been tied up with extra work hours/kid activities, so in spite of being a DIY guy, I went lazy and bought the Morebeer one. Its only drawback is its gauge which is limited to 15 psi. Great for lagers, not so much for ales. Luckily I had a spare 30 psi gauge in the garage and put it on the valve instead. Now I like it really well. Word to the wise - leak check it thoroughly. My first batch using it wouldn't hold full pressure until I found a small pinhole leak on the bottom. Tightened up all connections and it's ready to rock.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-qd-adjustable-pressure-valve-wgauge.html
 

12 PSI at 45 degrees won't work? May take a while to carbonate, but I've not had issues with cask ale carving naturally at cooler temps.

[natebrews]

I just use one of the many carbonation charts out there to figure out what pressure to set.  For most of them at 2-2.5 volumes, I need it around 20psi.  I usually give it a week or two after transferring into the spunding keg before I assume it is done.  I could take a sample, but I generally don't since it was almost done when it went in there.  I also usually turn the temp up 2F-4F or so when it is spunding to make sure that it all finishes out and cleans up.  To date, it has worked nicely.

[HoosierBrew]

I've been tied up with extra work hours/kid activities, so in spite of being a DIY guy, I went lazy and bought the Morebeer one. Its only drawback is its gauge which is limited to 15 psi. Great for lagers, not so much for ales. Luckily I had a spare 30 psi gauge in the garage and put it on the valve instead. Now I like it really well. Word to the wise - leak check it thoroughly. My first batch using it wouldn't hold full pressure until I found a small pinhole leak on the bottom. Tightened up all connections and it's ready to rock.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-qd-adjustable-pressure-valve-wgauge.html
 

12 PSI at 45 degrees won't work? May take a while to carbonate, but I've not had issues with cask ale carving naturally at cooler temps.

Sure, 12 @ 45F works great. But 12 psi on an ale that's finishing up at 68F only nets you a fraction of those CO2 volumes. The IPA I just brewed peaked at 17 psi in the spund ( I raise temp to 68F-ish after 3 days at 63F, then kegged on day 4). That works out to around 1.7 volumes. I need to keg my ales a little sooner next time, all temp dependant of course. 10-12 psi for lagers is great though.

[Phil_M]

1.7 would be pretty near perfect for some of my beers.

[HoosierBrew]

1.7 would be pretty near perfect for some of my beers.

Oh yeah, for bitters that's a sweet spot. I like around 2.4-2.5 for most beers, with the outliers being obviously bitter on one end and Belgians on the other.