[blatz]

Trying to mount a 4" column T Tower onto a granite countertop.

Granite guy is not happy about my request to drill the 4 holes around the 4" for the draft lines to secure the base of the column to the granite.

Is there another solution?  I was thinking I could have him cut a slightly bigger hole, enough to meet the holes in the base and put plywood underneath the counter and secure it to that?

thoughts?

[Stevie]

What's his deal? Is he worried about cracking the slab and needing to replace?

Could he just drill holes partway and epoxy nuts into the slab?

[reverseapachemaster]

I'm sure it is a concern with cracking the slab.

Would it be possible to secure the tower under the granite and have the entire tower come out of a slightly larger hole?

[Joe Sr.]

Someone MUST have done this before.

I was recently at a bar with my wife where the tap tower had an integral drip tray.  You could see in the granite where they had cut out for the tray and tower and had to patch it back in and re-cut.  I assume they put a plywood backing underneath.

[Joe Sr.]

It occurs to me that you don't really need a four inch hole for the draft lines to go into the tower.  You should be able to have a substantially smaller hole which minimizes the concern of cracking.

For my back yard bar, I think I drilled a 2.5" hole for the draft lines.  Of course, I'm only pulling one line through, but even if you have four taps, you shouldn't need a four inch hole.

[Pricelessbrewing]

Now I'm not an installer, but I have sold stone countertops (quartz mostly). I would not be able to guarantee or warranty a countertop that had 4 small screw holes placed beside a faucet or 4" hole. I would instead recommend adhering the tap tower via another method, silicone or something, or screwing it into a plate that can be attached beneath the countertop via an adhesive.

[Stevie]

It occurs to me that you don't really need a four inch hole for the draft lines to go into the tower.  You should be able to have a substantially smaller hole which minimizes the concern of cracking.

For my back yard bar, I think I drilled a 2.5" hole for the draft lines.  Of course, I'm only pulling one line through, but even if you have four taps, you shouldn't need a four inch hole.

Smart guy of the day.

[blatz]

Prob need the 4" due to insulation, 5 tap lines and cooling line.

What about 6-8" of 4" pvc as a stem to slide it on top of?


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[Phil_M]

I'd think the granite would be plenty cool on it's own. I'd insulate the tower, sure, but I don't think you need continual insulation from the kegerator into the tower.

If you're still concerned about cooking, get a copper rod and use that as a heat sink of sorts, fit what you can into the tower, and run the bulk it down into the kegerator. Should pull the heat out of the tower some, and still get you a narrower than 4" hole.

[HydraulicSammich]

Blatz, last April I installed a Beer Meister kegerator in my granite top.  It is a three inch tower.  I used a 2.5" pvc length to go between the tower and the frig.  The granite installers had no problem drilling the large hole and the four screw holes.  I had them drill the four holes to accept plastic screw anchors.  It worked out perfectly.  I then caulked it to make it air tight.  However, Beer Meister had a template to help for the initial hole.  A half inch smaller pipe should allow you to align. 

[blatz]

I'd think the granite would be plenty cool on it's own. I'd insulate the tower, sure, but I don't think you need continual insulation from the kegerator into the tower.

If you're still concerned about cooking, get a copper rod and use that as a heat sink of sorts, fit what you can into the tower, and run the bulk it down into the kegerator. Should pull the heat out of the tower some, and still get you a narrower than 4" hole.

The tap lines are running a few feet from a converted chest freezer underneath the granite top and into the bottom of the tower.  I'm running pvc through the collar and elbowing up to meet the bottom of the tower.

My hope is the the inner diameter the tower might be just a smidge bigger than a 4" pvc pipe and I can shove that in the tower itself to create a stem and secure the pvc underneath.

Was also thinking about using L brackets of some sort and using very short bolts/nuts above and then securing the other end to a piece of plywood underneath the top.  Plus use a heavy amount of silicone as additional support up top.

Very annoyed as it seems through google searches that everyone else just has the holes done.  But I'm already "married" to this stone guy - bought the piece from him and he's honed and cut the top just need to put in the hole(s).


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[blatz]

Here's some preview pics of the build


Chest freezer with collar is inside here.  Piano hinged top and vented on all sides with a 3.5" gap on both sides to allow plenty of airflow


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[EHall]

https://bonstone.com/materials/granite/bonding/

[zwiller]

Just use one of the clamp underneath style towers (the horror!)    There are some really nice designs.  That said, I'd be using the wall above the chest freezer for the "wall of taps".  Consider some stained glass inserts for that window too or maybe change out that recessed fixture above the bar for a blown glass pendant while you're at it.

[blatz]

Funny yeah none of that is going to fly lol.  The deal was to have a bar but keep with the decor of the house.  I.e.  No obnoxious tacky bar stuff.  Already have the tower so can't change that now.

That said me and the stone guy might be in agreement with drilling holes halfway deep and using epoxy to secure them in.


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