Kinda funny, I don't pick up on the tone at all, in fact, I find it slightly humorous and I think that's what the author was trying to do. "Seriously though, consider locking up the spice cabinet".
I believe that US craft is too chicken to make beers true to style in fear that it will not sell and that's probably true. Let's be serious, it's actually quite simple to brew something in the spirit of belgian style.