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Author Topic: Electric brewery - need help  (Read 1909 times)

Offline Scutlebut

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Electric brewery - need help
« on: November 05, 2017, 07:57:12 pm »

Posts: 10
Location: Newark, California
Good afternoon guys, have a question I've been scratching my head over. I have made a Kal clone electric brewery panel but am using using MYPIN T4 PID's instead of the auber.  so I started my wet test yesterday and pumps fired up nicely and circulated water for a while. Come time to add some heat and I set the PID so it was calling for heat but the SSR did not acknowledge and therefore nothing to the element and amp meter didn't move either. So bright and early this morning I started to see why. I was able to test the SSR with a 9volt battery to see if it would fire up and it did, the amp meter came to life and the element fired up, so that was a good feeling. Now I have looked at the diagram on the MYPIN pid and I have the + & - correct using #3 as negative and #4 as positive also confirms with what was given to me here when I posed the wiring question some time ago. So has anyone had this issue before, or could anyone using these PID's offer any insight. I would be most grateful.

Fredy.

Offline TeeDubb

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  • San Jose, CA
Re: Electric brewery - need help
« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2017, 09:15:40 am »
I use the MYPIN TA-4 for my mash temperature control and can say that it took a little while to sort out all of the internal parameter settings. The instruction manual is an awful translation from Chinese. Assuming that the unit is wired correctly, it could be one of the safety settings that disables the output to the SSR if the temperature is out of range.

Can you post the settings you are using?  Hold down the Set button and then page through them. Also, hold down the up and down arrows simultaneously and post the settings you have there.  I will compare when I'm back home this afternoon and see if everything looks right.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 06:00:32 pm by TeeDubb »

Offline weazletoe

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  • Howland, Ohio
Re: Electric brewery - need help
« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2017, 01:23:25 pm »
I have these same ones. Took me a while to translate the Chinglish instructions. When i get home tonight I'll double check what I've done and see if it doesn't help you.
A man works hard all week, so he doesn't have to wear pants all weekend.

Offline TeeDubb

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  • San Jose, CA
Re: Electric brewery - need help
« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2017, 05:58:57 pm »
Just following up on prior response.  Here is what I would check:

Hold the up and down arrows on the controller for a few seconds and then try / check these settings:
LSP = 45
USP = 220
HY1 = 1.0 (default)
HY2 = 1.0 (default)
dP = 1 (default)
ScY = 015 (default, password)
The controller will only command the outputs when between 45 and 220F.  It's a nice feature to have if a thermocouple fails or gets unplugged and goes out of normal range.

Then, check the main settings.  Hold the SET button for a few seconds. Here is what I use for mash control:
AL1 = 215
A|^|1 = 0 (sets control logic)
AL2 = 200 (I think this just turns on a warning on the display)
A|^|2 = 2
PuF = 1.0 (changing this makes corrections to temp sensor offset)
InP = K (if using a K-type thermocouple)
P=1.0 (PID gains)
I=1.0 (PID gains)
D=0.0 (PID gains)
oUd = HEAT (control direction)
HY5 = 0.5 (not used in PID mode)
CeL = 001 (SSR control mode)
ErL = 0.0 (default, not used)
ErH = 100.0 (default, not used)
b5L = PID
C-F = F (temp units)
LCY = 000 (default, password)

and then, your SV on the home screen should be your target control temp. The controller should energize OUT1 which is connected to your SSR. The SSR should be 100% duty cycle if you are more than 1-2 degrees away from SV.  Hope this is useful. One of these days, I'll write up a help file with a wiring diagram.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 09:51:51 pm by TeeDubb »

Offline Scutlebut

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Re: Electric brewery - need help
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2017, 12:43:51 pm »
Thanks for the help guys, actually found that the PID's I have are for relays only, not SSR's (TA4-R, instead of TA4-S) bummed me out out but now I know and can give my brain a rest. Off to buy the proper ones. Thanks again