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Author Topic: Switching to BIAB  (Read 2028 times)

Offline Brewmeisters

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Switching to BIAB
« on: March 27, 2018, 11:57:54 pm »
Probably a stupid question:
My buddy and I are switching to all grain, we're going to start with BIAB.
Can you use the 5 gallon all grain recipes for BIAB?

I only ask because all of the BIAB recipe kits are for 3 gallon batches.
I don't see why not, but I'm just a newbrew.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2018, 12:01:30 am by Brewmeisters »
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Offline klickitat jim

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2018, 12:10:44 am »
You can go as big as you can lift the grain bag.

Offline Brewmeisters

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2018, 12:13:15 am »
Fantastic! I'll make sure to put a small metal rack at the bottom of the boil pot so the nylon bag doesn't burn
When you brew, brew with a happy heart.

Offline rburrelli

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2018, 03:49:19 pm »
I don’t think you mean to boil with the bag in. You must be referring to the mash.
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Offline Wilbur

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2018, 11:29:59 pm »
When I look at recipes or formulate a recipe, I don't really change anything in the malt/grain from a normal batch. I brew 5-6 gallon batches in a 10 gallon kettle, single vessel BIAB. I use 2.75 qt/lb, and do no sparge batches. I also don't find a need to put a mesh rack, the only part of my bag I've melted have been the nylon loops hanging over the side. I do have a triclad bottom pot though. Good luck, single vessel BIAB is probably the best change I've made to my brewing.

Offline Lazy Ant Brewing

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2018, 05:10:43 am »
Fantastic! I'll make sure to put a small metal rack at the bottom of the boil pot so the nylon bag doesn't burn

I do BIAB for all my brewing.  Relative to burning the bag, I put the bag in the pot and secure it by putting a bungee strap through the loops on the outside of the pot.  Then I heat the water to about three degrees higher than my my desired mash temperature.  At that point, I turn the burner off, quickly stir in the crushed grain, put the kettle lid back on and cover the pot with some old insulated coveralls that no longer fit my fat body.

Let the grains mash for one hour with no heat applied.  Then pull the bag, let the wort drain back into the pot, and begin the boil phase.

DO NOT TURN THE BURNER ON WHILE MASHING.  YOU'LL PROBABLY END BURNING THE GRAIN BAG. 

The May/June 2016 issue Brew Your Own has an article by Rex Slagel "BIAB BEST MASH PRACTICES" that explains it better than I can.

Happy brewing.
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Offline Brewmeisters

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2018, 05:35:41 pm »
I'm more concerned about the bottom of the pot being so hot it melts the bab.
Sounds like this won't be an issue.
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Offline soymateofeo

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Re: Switching to BIAB
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2018, 07:22:21 am »
I'm more concerned about the bottom of the pot being so hot it melts the bab.
Sounds like this won't be an issue.

If you put a pot of ice cold water on the stove and turn on the fire, the water heats slowly.  However, if you put your hand in the water and press your finger against the bottom of the pot, your finger will burn. The metal and water will stabilize their temp relatively quickly.  I'm not sure how long but it is a relatively quick process.  Many people don't add the bag until after the strike water is heated to keep the bag from burning. I've heard of people insulating the pot before they heated their water and melted/burnt their insulation.

Good Luck.