[waltsmalt]

It's been quite a while since I bottle conditioned any beer, but I'm about to bottle up 10 gallons of a Dark Strong in 750 ml corked and caged bottles.  My question whether or not this beer will still have enough yeast to carbonate the beer.  Should I add fresh yeast before bottling?  It's about 10% ABV and has been in the fermenter about 4 weeks (I've been busy).

[dmtaylor]

Plenty of yeast.  No worries.

[Big Monk]

It's been quite a while since I bottle conditioned any beer, but I'm about to bottle up 10 gallons of a Dark Strong in 750 ml corked and caged bottles.  My question whether or not this beer will still have enough yeast to carbonate the beer.  Should I add fresh yeast before bottling?  It's about 10% ABV and has been in the fermenter about 4 weeks (I've been busy).

It won’t hurt to crash the beer and add 1M/ml cells at bottling. The beer will carbonate faster. This is something I have done quite often with great results. This is also a thread that will draw differing opinions. I’m of the “don’t call your benchwarmers to finish in the clutch” crowd.

Adding yeast at bottling offers a grester degree of control and consistency to carbonation on big beers in particular. YMMV but I think it’s an excellent idea.

[KellerBrauer]

It's been quite a while since I bottle conditioned any beer, but I'm about to bottle up 10 gallons of a Dark Strong in 750 ml corked and caged bottles.  My question whether or not this beer will still have enough yeast to carbonate the beer.  Should I add fresh yeast before bottling?  It's about 10% ABV and has been in the fermenter about 4 weeks (I've been busy).

It won’t hurt to crash the beer and add 1M/ml cells at bottling. The beer will carbonate faster. This is something I have done quite often with great results. This is also a thread that will draw differing opinions. I’m of the “don’t call your benchwarmers to finish in the clutch” crowd.

Adding yeast at bottling offers a grester degree of control and consistency to carbonation on big beers in particular. YMMV but I think it’s an excellent idea.

I agree with Big Monk.  While it might not be absolutely necessary to re-pitch some fresh yeast, doing so cannot hurt.  I have a recipe for a tripel where I crash the beer for 30 days after fermentation is complete, rack to my bottling bubbler, then pitch fresh yeast for bottle conditioning.  Works great and no worries about off flavors from old yeast.

[waltsmalt]

Just wanted to check my math...so 1M cells / ml...for 10 gallons this means about 37.85B cells.  If I used US-05, I would only need about 2 grams of yeast.  Seem right? 

My plan is to put boiled (once cooled) priming sugar in two kegs, add yeast, and rack on top.  Then fill bottles from beer gun. 

Any other with my math and/or my process?

[denny]

I agree with Big Monk.  While it might not be absolutely necessary to re-pitch some fresh yeast, doing so cannot hurt.  I have a recipe for a tripel where I crash the beer for 30 days after fermentation is complete, rack to my bottling bubbler, then pitch fresh yeast for bottle conditioning.  Works great and no worries about off flavors from old yeast.

I have no doubt that it works great, but the scientist in me wonders what it would be like if you didn't do that.  Have you done it without repitching so you know exactly what effect the added yeast has?

[Big Monk]

I agree with Big Monk.  While it might not be absolutely necessary to re-pitch some fresh yeast, doing so cannot hurt.  I have a recipe for a tripel where I crash the beer for 30 days after fermentation is complete, rack to my bottling bubbler, then pitch fresh yeast for bottle conditioning.  Works great and no worries about off flavors from old yeast.

I have no doubt that it works great, but the scientist in me wonders what it would be like if you didn't do that.  Have you done it without repitching so you know exactly what effect the added yeast has?

When you break it down, it’s a consistency thing. For sure the yeast in suspension will do, but how long and how consistent is up for debate and testing. My experience has shown me that when either bottling with fresh yeast, or bottling with remaining extract, I get faster, more consistent carbonation.

That’s not to say that either way is better or worse. It’s all down to what you want to get out of it.

[klickitat jim]

Just wanted to check my math...so 1M cells / ml...for 10 gallons this means about 37.85B cells.  If I used US-05, I would only need about 2 grams of yeast.  Seem right? 

My plan is to put boiled (once cooled) priming sugar in two kegs, add yeast, and rack on top.  Then fill bottles from beer gun. 

Any other with my math and/or my process?

1M cells per ml per °P... your math is right if your wort has 1°P.

[Big Monk]

Just wanted to check my math...so 1M cells / ml...for 10 gallons this means about 37.85B cells.  If I used US-05, I would only need about 2 grams of yeast.  Seem right? 

My plan is to put boiled (once cooled) priming sugar in two kegs, add yeast, and rack on top.  Then fill bottles from beer gun. 

Any other with my math and/or my process?

1M cells per ml per °P... your math is right if your wort has 1°P.

Not really Jim. Depending on the style, you can use anywhere between 100k-1M per ml. No °P in this application.

EDIT: Sorry! Math was good. I read it wrong! The math above is incorrect, however. Let’s run through it:

10 gal = 37.9 l = 37,900 ml

Using 1M/ml -> 37,900 ml * 1000000 cells/ml = 37.9B cells

Now let’s try 100k/ml:

37,900 ml * 100,000 cells/ml = 3.79B cells

[klickitat jim]

Cool. I've always heard the yeast counters use X million cells per ml per °P. I know that X can be variable.


Oh duh! Talking about how much bottling yeast. Disregard, I'm a bone head