[brizz842]

I just finished carbonating my latest batch.  I own a reconditioned ball lock keg system and have had it for about three years, with no issues.  I experienced a tremendous amount of difficulty trying to attach the liquid disconnect to the liquid post.  I confirmed the following: the liquid post is properly screwed on to the OUT thread (the CO2 properly on the gas IN thread) and the level of CO2 on the regulator is above the level where it requires change/re-filling. 

Once I was finally able to attach the disconnect, the beer barely trickled out.  Something's wrong.

Do I just need to purchase a new liquid post and liquid disconnect? Any other troubleshooting I should try?

[Robert]

First thing to try when it gets difficult to attach/remove disconnect is just replace the o-ring on the post.  As the rubber deteriorates, it won't allow a smooth action.   There's also keg lube for this, but it can make the situation even worse, as it gets stiff in the cold of your fridge/kegerator, and is petroleum-based and so accelerates the deterioration of the o-ring. O-rings are cheap, Ikeep a supply and replace them often.  I can't see the post itself being a problem, but I suppose the balls and collar on the disconnect could be gummed up over time if cleaning has been lax. Disassemble and clean well before deciding you need to replace.

[James K]

Disassemble and clean well before deciding you need to replace.

Sometimes my disconnects and be a pain, but usually not when they are really clean.(new o-rings) Sometimes I spray isopropyl alcohol on my disconnects and it’s always a good idea to take the post apart.  Hops matter can become stuck in there. I like to soak things.

I recently had a keg stop pouring, it poured the day before, but I could see particle matter where the pin is. I dry hopped in the keg before it got stuck, and yes. My disconnects were hard to put on. I always relayed it to pressure. But it’s more likely cleanliness.

I also try to twist my disconnects when I put them on, for me I feel like it’s better than just pushing them on. Also. It could be that there is matter stuck in the dip tube.

[joelv]

I just finished carbonating my latest batch.  I own a reconditioned ball lock keg system and have had it for about three years, with no issues.  I experienced a tremendous amount of difficulty trying to attach the liquid disconnect to the liquid post.  I confirmed the following: the liquid post is properly screwed on to the OUT thread (the CO2 properly on the gas IN thread) and the level of CO2 on the regulator is above the level where it requires change/re-filling. 

Once I was finally able to attach the disconnect, the beer barely trickled out.  Something's wrong.

Do I just need to purchase a new liquid post and liquid disconnect? Any other troubleshooting I should try?

You mentioned difficulty putting the liquid disconnect on...   in my kegs, the dip tubes are unmodified and can, at times, press against the bottom causing the poppet to have trouble being fully depressed. I can tell when the liquid side needs a lot of force when attaching the disconnect.

As mentioned, the other and more common issue for me is material gumming up the dip tube or the poppet. Mine is usually from dry hops carried into the keg. I’ve had some success blowing CO2 down the liquid side, but have had to disassemble and clean too.


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[erockrph]

There's also keg lube for this, but it can make the situation even worse, as it gets stiff in the cold of your fridge/kegerator, and is petroleum-based and so accelerates the deterioration of the o-ring.

The keg lube I have is silicone based, and actually seems to extend the useful life I get out of O-rings (I use it on my whole-house water filter threads and O-ring as well - it's a real lifesaver there). My biggest problem is slow leaks, and since I've started slathering the lube on every O-ring pre-emptively that problem has largely gone away.

As you mention, O-rings are cheap and I replace any that have a scuff or nick.

To the OP, you did double-check that all your valves are open, right? I always seem to forget to open the ball valve on one of my regulators or manifold somewhere.

[Robert]

There's also keg lube for this, but it can make the situation even worse, as it gets stiff in the cold of your fridge/kegerator, and is petroleum-based and so accelerates the deterioration of the o-ring.

The keg lube I have is silicone based, and actually seems to extend the useful life I get out of O-rings (I use it on my whole-house water filter threads and O-ring as well - it's a real lifesaver there). My biggest problem is slow leaks, and since I've started slathering the lube on every O-ring pre-emptively that problem has largely gone away.

As you mention, O-rings are cheap and I replace any that have a scuff or nick.

To the OP, you did double-check that all your valves are open, right? I always seem to forget to open the ball valve on one of my regulators or manifold somewhere.

My LHBS only carries a petroleum based keg lube.   Could you point me toward the silicone stuff?  Sounds ideal.

[erockrph]

There's also keg lube for this, but it can make the situation even worse, as it gets stiff in the cold of your fridge/kegerator, and is petroleum-based and so accelerates the deterioration of the o-ring.

The keg lube I have is silicone based, and actually seems to extend the useful life I get out of O-rings (I use it on my whole-house water filter threads and O-ring as well - it's a real lifesaver there). My biggest problem is slow leaks, and since I've started slathering the lube on every O-ring pre-emptively that problem has largely gone away.

As you mention, O-rings are cheap and I replace any that have a scuff or nick.

To the OP, you did double-check that all your valves are open, right? I always seem to forget to open the ball valve on one of my regulators or manifold somewhere.

My LHBS only carries a petroleum based keg lube.   Could you point me toward the silicone stuff?  Sounds ideal.

I got mine from Midwest waaay back before they were bought out (the first time, by NB), and they don't seem to carry the same product. You could also use silicone plumber's grease that you can get at any hardware store, which is probably what my stuff is.

[Robert]

Thanks, I'll put it on the hardware store list.

[Robert]

^^^^^
Picked this up. Wow! Works like magic, and could be a lifetime supply (package a little leaky, though.)
https://m.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272642

[BrewBama]

Is this the same stuff?




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[Robert]

^^^^^
Sure looks like it.  Guess I just paid more to support my neighborhood hardware guy.

Oops, that sidebar says "petroleum based" right there.  But I'm sure Lowews must have it.  Let me look and get back....

Okay, I don't know what that is all about.  It says "90% pure silicone grease," same as what I got.  The bit about petroleum makes no sense. Must be a mistake.  The 90% silicone says it's safe for all rubber and plastic, is used on o-rings, in valves,  etc.  It's even in the same packaging as mine.  Gotta be the same.  Grab it.

[brizz842]

Per suggestion, I replaced the o ring on the disconnect and that solved my connection issue (thank you Robert).  But the beer continued to trickle out.  After investigating everything, I siphoned the beer out figuring it was the dry hops carried into the keg clogging the dip tube (thank you joelv).  I then siphoned back in without the extra matter and now all is working fine. 

Which leads me to my next question.  How can I siphon beer to the keg, after dry hopping, without having this happen again?  I rarely dry hop anything, so this has not been an issue before.

[Robert]

Is this the same stuff?




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^^^^^
Sure looks like it.  Guess I just paid more to support my neighborhood hardware guy.

Oops, that sidebar says "petroleum based" right there.  But I'm sure Lowews must have it.  Let me look and get back....

Okay, I don't know what that is all about.  It says "90% pure silicone grease," same as what I got.  The bit about petroleum makes no sense. Must be a mistake.  The 90% silicone says it's safe for all rubber and plastic, is used on o-rings, in valves,  etc.  It's even in the same packaging as mine.  Gotta be the same.  Grab it.

That Lowes description is messed up.  At least one comment to that effect on that page.  Checked some more, I believe anything in a little pillbox that says "90% pure silicone grease" is the same thing, probably same manufacture under a different label.  Really too runny to call grease, but works a treat on ball locks. Rated to 450°F, so would work on QDs on the hot side too, I've seen at least one thread looking for a solution there.

[Megary]

First thing to try when it gets difficult to attach/remove disconnect is just replace the o-ring on the post.  As the rubber deteriorates, it won't allow a smooth action.   There's also keg lube for this, but it can make the situation even worse, as it gets stiff in the cold of your fridge/kegerator, and is petroleum-based and so accelerates the deterioration of the o-ring. O-rings are cheap, Ikeep a supply and replace them often.  I can't see the post itself being a problem, but I suppose the balls and collar on the disconnect could be gummed up over time if cleaning has been lax. Disassemble and clean well before deciding you need to replace.

An old thread, but old threads can be very useful, you know?

I was just having a bugger of a time connecting the liquid disconnect.  Tried spraying the post with Star-San and then when that didn’t help, tried some keg lube.  Nope. Took the O-Ring off the post and compared it to a new one.  What a difference.  The old one had swollen/expanded so much that it would not allow me to push down the disconnect.  Put the new o-ring on and I was immediately reminded of how easy this process used to be.     Seems like the old O-Ring just expanded out of the blue, but this has obviously been getting more and more difficult to connect.  Glad I had spare parts lying around.

Thanks Robert, wherever you are.

[redrocker652002]

Good info.  I have had my torpedo keg now for at least 2 years and have not done a darn thing to it.  Guess maybe I should pull it out of the kegerator and see what those Orings look like.  I have a decent supply of them, so new ones would not be a big problem.  Might go looking for that lube too next time I am at Lowes.  Good stuff, thanks.