[HopDen]

Amber Lager from yesterday.  This one has Pils, Redx, C80, and a smidge of Dark Chocolate for color. Amarillo through out. Charlie’s Fist Bump yeast.

The bottom of that glass reminds me of a sunset on the beach. Great looking beer!

[beerphilmcd]

100% Rahr North Star pils malt, 35 IBU's with Galena, fermented with bootleg biology saison parfait yeast blend OG 1.048, FG 1.002. It had good foam until I started drinking it after eating potato chips
https://imgur.com/a/D5hqEM8

Clicked the link, it’s lovely. Simple beers are the best beers to have around. We all brew some complex stuff but having a few pints of interesting yer simple beer is tops! Would live to hear about saison parfait’s character and is it a mixed culture.


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[beerphilmcd]

Amber Lager from yesterday.  This one has Pils, Redx, C80, and a smidge of Dark Chocolate for color. Amarillo through out. Charlie’s Fist Bump yeast.

“She’s a beaut Clark”
Totally get the beach sunset at the bottom too, but only after it was pointed out.


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[beerphilmcd]

My recent flight of what’s on tap left to right: hoppy crisp blonde, traditional bock, ESB, and the same hoppy blonde… what can I say I’ve only got 3 taps! I love this tasty hobby!


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[Village Taphouse]

A better shot of this pilsner in a more suitable glass.  Cheers Beerheads.

[HopDen]

A better shot of this pilsner in a more suitable glass.  Cheers Beerheads.

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

[Village Taphouse]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

[HopDen]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

I would definitely be interested in what your process simplification is because I need to make beer look like that!

[BrewBama]

Berry Spring’s Best

[Big_Eight]

My 71' Bodds attempt. Wyeast 1968 and a more mineralized profile. Beer is pretty clear but I've found I like my beers colder than the accepted temperature for British ales lol. I have some chill haze with the colder temperature.

Cheers!

[coolman26]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

007 is my favorite ale yeast. Attenuates and drops out to a solid cake. I haven’t used 04 in a long time. 007 and 04 are hard to tell apart for me. Nice beer!

[Village Taphouse]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

007 is my favorite ale yeast. Attenuates and drops out to a solid cake. I haven’t used 04 in a long time. 007 and 04 are hard to tell apart for me. Nice beer!

Yeah, a lot of the UK yeast strains drop nicely and leave a nice, clear beer behind.  They can stall or leave the beer slightly underattenuated under the right (wrong?) conditions and many of them are notorious for diacetyl too.  On the lager side, Czech 2278 and White Labs 940 are known for "medium-high" and "high" flocculation which is a big help.

For years I have been trying to determine what aspects of brewing can impact clarity.  The crush, the mash process, pH numbers, yeast strain, boil rate, etc.  With no real scientific backup for this, I have to assume that improper pH numbers throughout the process must have an impact on clarity.  One of the "simplifications" came from Brewbama who displays his beautiful beers here often.  His strategy (which I believe was inspired by Gordon Strong) was to just get your strike water to a premash pH of 5.5 and let the rest take care of itself.  Some who like to focus heavily on mash pH might find this reckless but it seems to work beautifully.  Another angle on it is to withhold very dark grains from the mash, crush them separately and add them to the MT at the end of the mash.  This way they won't futz with mash pH very much.  Very dark grains are usually in small percentages and each brewer can decide what to mash and what to add later as they see fit.  If I make a darker beer with maybe 1-2% carafa or midnight wheat, I can easily hold that until the end.  I have a Vienna Lager on tap now where I did this with carafa.  It's delicious, well-balanced and clear.  You could literally put your pH meter on the shelf with this approach and I pretty much have.  I have a perfectly good Apera meter that I just have not used since I started this.  Yes, I needed it to determine how much acid I needed to get my strike water and sparge water to a pH of 5.5 but after that... I don't bother taking readings anymore.  The mash pH is going to be in range.  For those who prefer to get into the mud and look at numbers, plot and chart them, etc... avert your eyes.   

[Megary]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

007 is my favorite ale yeast. Attenuates and drops out to a solid cake. I haven’t used 04 in a long time. 007 and 04 are hard to tell apart for me. Nice beer!

Yeah, a lot of the UK yeast strains drop nicely and leave a nice, clear beer behind.  They can stall or leave the beer slightly underattenuated under the right (wrong?) conditions and many of them are notorious for diacetyl too.  On the lager side, Czech 2278 and White Labs 940 are known for "medium-high" and "high" flocculation which is a big help.

For years I have been trying to determine what aspects of brewing can impact clarity.  The crush, the mash process, pH numbers, yeast strain, boil rate, etc.  With no real scientific backup for this, I have to assume that improper pH numbers throughout the process must have an impact on clarity.  One of the "simplifications" came from Brewbama who displays his beautiful beers here often.  His strategy (which I believe was inspired by Gordon Strong) was to just get your strike water to a premash pH of 5.5 and let the rest take care of itself.  Some who like to focus heavily on mash pH might find this reckless but it seems to work beautifully.  Another angle on it is to withhold very dark grains from the mash, crush them separately and add them to the MT at the end of the mash.  This way they won't futz with mash pH very much.  Very dark grains are usually in small percentages and each brewer can decide what to mash and what to add later as they see fit.  If I make a darker beer with maybe 1-2% carafa or midnight wheat, I can easily hold that until the end.  I have a Vienna Lager on tap now where I did this with carafa.  It's delicious, well-balanced and clear.  You could literally put your pH meter on the shelf with this approach and I pretty much have.  I have a perfectly good Apera meter that I just have not used since I started this.  Yes, I needed it to determine how much acid I needed to get my strike water and sparge water to a pH of 5.5 but after that... I don't bother taking readings anymore.  The mash pH is going to be in range.  For those who prefer to get into the mud and look at numbers, plot and chart them, etc... avert your eyes. 

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe BrewBama is brewing with RO water and thus holding his dark grains is in fact a way to not have them “futz” with the mash.  For my moderately bicarbonated water, the dark grains are a blessing for the full mash (as far as pH goes). My using the roasted barley, chocolate malt etc. in the mash allows me to leave the acid on the shelf.
Maybe it’s to be understood that everyone uses RO water (I have no idea), but I just think a distinction needs to be made.
Cheers. 

[fredthecat]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe BrewBama is brewing with RO water and thus holding his dark grains is in fact a way to not have them “futz” with the mash.  For my moderately bicarbonated water, the dark grains are a blessing for the full mash (as far as pH goes). My using the roasted barley, chocolate malt etc. in the mash allows me to leave the acid on the shelf.
Maybe it’s to be understood that everyone uses RO water (I have no idea), but I just think a distinction needs to be made.
Cheers.

same, i use acid malt for pale brews, but anything with noticeable amounts of roasted malts i can leave it out. also just a fan of many dark and distinctly roasty beers in general like i believe you are.

[BrewBama]

You definitely make some beautiful looking beer!! I have used gelatin and biofine in the past with good results but never have I had beer quite this crystal clear. Well done!

Thanks brother.  I swear I'm trying over here.  On every batch I want the beer to look this way.  Taste is first, clearly but I always want the beer to look polished too.  I just finished a run of seven batches with S-04 and that yeast drops like a rock so I think there will be some clear ales coming up.  Some process "simplification" has helped on the clarity front as well, IMO.  Cheers.

007 is my favorite ale yeast. Attenuates and drops out to a solid cake. I haven’t used 04 in a long time. 007 and 04 are hard to tell apart for me. Nice beer!

Yeah, a lot of the UK yeast strains drop nicely and leave a nice, clear beer behind.  They can stall or leave the beer slightly underattenuated under the right (wrong?) conditions and many of them are notorious for diacetyl too.  On the lager side, Czech 2278 and White Labs 940 are known for "medium-high" and "high" flocculation which is a big help.

For years I have been trying to determine what aspects of brewing can impact clarity.  The crush, the mash process, pH numbers, yeast strain, boil rate, etc.  With no real scientific backup for this, I have to assume that improper pH numbers throughout the process must have an impact on clarity.  One of the "simplifications" came from Brewbama who displays his beautiful beers here often.  His strategy (which I believe was inspired by Gordon Strong) was to just get your strike water to a premash pH of 5.5 and let the rest take care of itself.  Some who like to focus heavily on mash pH might find this reckless but it seems to work beautifully.  Another angle on it is to withhold very dark grains from the mash, crush them separately and add them to the MT at the end of the mash.  This way they won't futz with mash pH very much.  Very dark grains are usually in small percentages and each brewer can decide what to mash and what to add later as they see fit.  If I make a darker beer with maybe 1-2% carafa or midnight wheat, I can easily hold that until the end.  I have a Vienna Lager on tap now where I did this with carafa.  It's delicious, well-balanced and clear.  You could literally put your pH meter on the shelf with this approach and I pretty much have.  I have a perfectly good Apera meter that I just have not used since I started this.  Yes, I needed it to determine how much acid I needed to get my strike water and sparge water to a pH of 5.5 but after that... I don't bother taking readings anymore.  The mash pH is going to be in range.  For those who prefer to get into the mud and look at numbers, plot and chart them, etc... avert your eyes. 

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe BrewBama is brewing with RO water and thus holding his dark grains is in fact a way to not have them “futz” with the mash.  For my moderately bicarbonated water, the dark grains are a blessing for the full mash (as far as pH goes). My using the roasted barley, chocolate malt etc. in the mash allows me to leave the acid on the shelf.
Maybe it’s to be understood that everyone uses RO water (I have no idea), but I just think a distinction needs to be made.
Cheers.

That’s correct. It’s all about mash pH.