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Quote from: HopDen on August 07, 2019, 03:05:43 pmSo, for the last few batches of beer, I have been overshooting my FG. I used BS3 to formulate my recipes and have brewed these multiple times. I also use a tilt hydrometer and, because I'm pretty anal, I verify with a hydrometer that reads correctly. Calibrated in RO water. I recirculate using a HERMS. I have not changed my processes for these recipes. I use iodophor to sanitize everything. Example 1) FG 1.009 but I actually hit 1.002--- Ex. 2) 1.011 but hit 1.004 Both beers are 7 points over what they should be and what they have consistently been.Suffice it to say, I am pretty clueless as to what is causing this. Has anyone had this happen to them and what are some possible causes?One of the greatest things about BeerSmith is that it enables the brewer to control the software so it reflects results that represent expected results from their equipment and process. The estimated values are reflective of user inputs. Once you enter your equipment profile and brew a few batches, you need to fine tune the profile. If you don't, you will continue to miss your mark, because you haven't properly defined it in the software.
So, for the last few batches of beer, I have been overshooting my FG. I used BS3 to formulate my recipes and have brewed these multiple times. I also use a tilt hydrometer and, because I'm pretty anal, I verify with a hydrometer that reads correctly. Calibrated in RO water. I recirculate using a HERMS. I have not changed my processes for these recipes. I use iodophor to sanitize everything. Example 1) FG 1.009 but I actually hit 1.002--- Ex. 2) 1.011 but hit 1.004 Both beers are 7 points over what they should be and what they have consistently been.Suffice it to say, I am pretty clueless as to what is causing this. Has anyone had this happen to them and what are some possible causes?
AFAIK all the evidence to date is that iodophor, like bleach, kills everything, while acid anionic sanitizers are not effective against fungi, yeasts, and spores. I've seen some pushback against this idea recently on at least one forum but without supporting documentation. But it is also true that you can't sanitize what's not mechanically clean, and gav is correct that beerstone deposits can harbor biological material that is inaccessible to standard sanitizer applications. I regularly use an acid for this purpose. Identical to but far cheaper by the gallon jug than brewery products is milkstone remover, if you have access to a dairy supply (or stocked by Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet in certain areas.) The acid will loosen the oxalate deposits which then can be removed by PBW, etc. Good to just incorporate it into the protocol from time to time.
Is it outside the manufacture's expected attenuation percentage?
Perhaps it's time to dial the profile in again. I'm assuming you've checked the calibration of your measuring instruments.
Quote from: Robert on August 07, 2019, 05:34:22 pmAFAIK all the evidence to date is that iodophor, like bleach, kills everything, while acid anionic sanitizers are not effective against fungi, yeasts, and spores. I've seen some pushback against this idea recently on at least one forum but without supporting documentation. But it is also true that you can't sanitize what's not mechanically clean, and gav is correct that beerstone deposits can harbor biological material that is inaccessible to standard sanitizer applications. I regularly use an acid for this purpose. Identical to but far cheaper by the gallon jug than brewery products is milkstone remover, if you have access to a dairy supply (or stocked by Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet in certain areas.) The acid will loosen the oxalate deposits which then can be removed by PBW, etc. Good to just incorporate it into the protocol from time to time.Although it is more expensive than milk stone remover (a very good relatively inexpensive product, we used it on the dairy farm where I grew up) a solution of 1 oz of Star-San in a gallon of water is also good at removing beer stone. SS Brewtech recommends this for passivating their fermenters. I have used it in my boil kettle to get rid of beer stone (since I have a lot of it around and want to use it up before moving on to milk stone remover) and it works well. I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and can easily scrub off the remnants of beer stone from my kettle and false bottom with a Dobie pad.
Quote from: goose on August 08, 2019, 07:49:16 amQuote from: Robert on August 07, 2019, 05:34:22 pmAFAIK all the evidence to date is that iodophor, like bleach, kills everything, while acid anionic sanitizers are not effective against fungi, yeasts, and spores. I've seen some pushback against this idea recently on at least one forum but without supporting documentation. But it is also true that you can't sanitize what's not mechanically clean, and gav is correct that beerstone deposits can harbor biological material that is inaccessible to standard sanitizer applications. I regularly use an acid for this purpose. Identical to but far cheaper by the gallon jug than brewery products is milkstone remover, if you have access to a dairy supply (or stocked by Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet in certain areas.) The acid will loosen the oxalate deposits which then can be removed by PBW, etc. Good to just incorporate it into the protocol from time to time.Although it is more expensive than milk stone remover (a very good relatively inexpensive product, we used it on the dairy farm where I grew up) a solution of 1 oz of Star-San in a gallon of water is also good at removing beer stone. SS Brewtech recommends this for passivating their fermenters. I have used it in my boil kettle to get rid of beer stone (since I have a lot of it around and want to use it up before moving on to milk stone remover) and it works well. I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and can easily scrub off the remnants of beer stone from my kettle and false bottom with a Dobie pad.You can not passivate SS with star San. You need to use Nitric Acid. 5 Star product for passivation is Acid5.
Quote from: Thirsty_Monk on August 09, 2019, 08:03:06 pmQuote from: goose on August 08, 2019, 07:49:16 amQuote from: Robert on August 07, 2019, 05:34:22 pmAFAIK all the evidence to date is that iodophor, like bleach, kills everything, while acid anionic sanitizers are not effective against fungi, yeasts, and spores. I've seen some pushback against this idea recently on at least one forum but without supporting documentation. But it is also true that you can't sanitize what's not mechanically clean, and gav is correct that beerstone deposits can harbor biological material that is inaccessible to standard sanitizer applications. I regularly use an acid for this purpose. Identical to but far cheaper by the gallon jug than brewery products is milkstone remover, if you have access to a dairy supply (or stocked by Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet in certain areas.) The acid will loosen the oxalate deposits which then can be removed by PBW, etc. Good to just incorporate it into the protocol from time to time.Although it is more expensive than milk stone remover (a very good relatively inexpensive product, we used it on the dairy farm where I grew up) a solution of 1 oz of Star-San in a gallon of water is also good at removing beer stone. SS Brewtech recommends this for passivating their fermenters. I have used it in my boil kettle to get rid of beer stone (since I have a lot of it around and want to use it up before moving on to milk stone remover) and it works well. I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and can easily scrub off the remnants of beer stone from my kettle and false bottom with a Dobie pad.You can not passivate SS with star San. You need to use Nitric Acid. 5 Star product for passivation is Acid5.Don't disagree. Just saying that is what SS Brewtech recommended and that is probably to get rid of the beer stone. Yes Acid5 is a good passivation agent. To add, Ashton Lewis (Mr. Wizard) says that stainless will pretty much passivate itself after cleaning. you just need to get all of the crap off first.
Quote from: gav on August 07, 2019, 04:48:45 pmBTW, iodophor or starsan will not kill wild yeasts...Are you certain that iodophor does not in fact kill wild yeast? Can you show me something that proves your statement? I've been under the understanding that it in fact does kill wild yeast and mold whereas starsan will not...
BTW, iodophor or starsan will not kill wild yeasts...
Quote from: HopDen on August 07, 2019, 05:18:40 pmQuote from: gav on August 07, 2019, 04:48:45 pmBTW, iodophor or starsan will not kill wild yeasts...Are you certain that iodophor does not in fact kill wild yeast? Can you show me something that proves your statement? I've been under the understanding that it in fact does kill wild yeast and mold whereas starsan will not...My apologies - I stand corrected. After reading responses on this post, I realize I was mis-informed. I might be switching to Iodophor from Starsan based on this info.
I see a picture of iodine and I can taste it.
Quote from: Thirsty_Monk on August 10, 2019, 06:02:32 pmI see a picture of iodine and I can taste it.Yeah, me too!