[Robert]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't IM and Whirlfloc basically the same thing?  I have always been under that impression and the interwebs say that Whirlfloc is a compressed mixture of IM and carrageenan which confirms my point.  Am I missing something?

I use Whirlfloc because it not as messy to measure out.

Yep.  Whirlfloc is IM with a caking agent.  IIRC, IM IS caragennan. I've heard some people say that they think Whirlfloc is more effective than IM, but I don't think it's ever been verified.  I certainly find the 2 to be equal.

Whirlfloc is also refined (from Irish moss) to contain mainly just the active component, a certain molecular weight kappa carrageenan.  Raw Irish moss contains a wide spectrum of carrageenans in varying proportions, along with other things, so you don't know the exact concentration of active material you're getting.  Whirlfloc is just more consistent and predictable,  and easy to dose.  Irish moss, properly rehydrated, can be just as effective.   Or not.  It's a natural product so it's more hit or miss.  Using BrewTan B at least a minute before either one will enhance its effectiveness, sort of the way silica auxiliary finings enhance the performance of isinglass in the cask or bright tank.

[denny]

So if I BIAB and end up transferring all (or almost all) of the trub into the fermenter, what have I gained by using IM/Whirlfloc in the boil?

Likely clearer beer.

[Robert]

So if I BIAB and end up transferring all (or almost all) of the trub into the fermenter, what have I gained by using IM/Whirlfloc in the boil?

Likely clearer beer.

Yeah, it will still help stuff stay in the trub instead of in solution in the beer.  You'll separate it in the fermentor instead of the kettle.

[Megary]

So if I BIAB and end up transferring all (or almost all) of the trub into the fermenter, what have I gained by using IM/Whirlfloc in the boil?

Likely clearer beer.

Because I transferred the trub or because I added IM? 
Or both?

[Megary]

So if I BIAB and end up transferring all (or almost all) of the trub into the fermenter, what have I gained by using IM/Whirlfloc in the boil?

Likely clearer beer.

Yeah, it will still help stuff stay in the trub instead of in solution in the beer.  You'll separate it in the fermentor instead of the kettle.

I do use whirlfloc because I bought a bag of them and what else am I going to do with them.

But I have noticed the trub/dregs in the fermenter to be much more compact and easier to rack off of ever since I starting dumping the kettle into the fermenter.  Maybe the whirlfloc has something to do with that...maybe not.

[ynotbrusum]

Clearer beer can come from many sources or processes, but I use IM on all but the darkest stouts...and sometimes even then.  I love getting crystal clear beer.  I also use Brewtan B.....

[denny]

So if I BIAB and end up transferring all (or almost all) of the trub into the fermenter, what have I gained by using IM/Whirlfloc in the boil?

Likely clearer beer.

Because I transferred the trub or because I added IM? 
Or both?

Because you added the IM.  That causes "stuff" to precipitate out and become part of the trub.  Informal testing has shown that beer fermented on the trub was not only clearer, but taster preferred, over beer with the trub removed.

[denny]

Clearer beer can come from many sources or processes, but I use IM on all but the darkest stouts...and sometimes even then.  I love getting crystal clear beer.  I also use Brewtan B.....

I even use it on dark beers.  It makes them look brighter.

[a10t2]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't IM and Whirlfloc basically the same thing?  I have always been under that impression and the interwebs say that Whirlfloc is a compressed mixture of IM and carrageenan which confirms my point.  Am I missing something?

I use Whirlfloc because it not as messy to measure out.

There are at least two formulations of WhirlFloc as well. I use WhirlFloc-T (the tablets) because it explicitly claims not to require rehydration. Whether that actually makes a difference I don't think I can objectively say, but it makes dosing easy and the price difference is negligible in the scheme of things.

[Robert]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't IM and Whirlfloc basically the same thing?  I have always been under that impression and the interwebs say that Whirlfloc is a compressed mixture of IM and carrageenan which confirms my point.  Am I missing something?

I use Whirlfloc because it not as messy to measure out.

There are at least two formulations of WhirlFloc as well. I use WhirlFloc-T (the tablets) because it explicitly claims not to require rehydration. Whether that actually makes a difference I don't think I can objectively say, but it makes dosing easy and the price difference is negligible in the scheme of things.

The other version is Whirlfloc G.  T is a tablet, G is granules.  (How did they think of the names?)  Neither requires any preparation.   But the granules are not as finely powdered as the material in the tablets.  So the difference in application is, the tablets are recommended to be added at 5 minutes before the end of the boil,  and the granules at 10 minutes.

I prefer the tablets because I can essentially make my own supercharged version of Brewbrite, dosing each component at its ideal time, which you can't in a single, combined product like Brewbrite.  BrewTan B at 7 minutes, Whirlfloc T at 5 minutes, and PVPP at 3 minutes.

[majorvices]

I haven't read this entire thread but ... I will admit to seeing (side by side) a drastic effect in hydrometer flasks from separate boils, one with IM and one without. The one with had a much more coagulated visual trub dropping out of suspension as opposed to the other which left a more hazy wort and less trub. However, I have never been able to tell in the finished beer any difference in clarity or flavor. Also I haven't used IM or WF in years. Also, in case it hasn't been said, a WF charge is dependent on both volume and gravity. I can't remember the #s right now but generally for a 5 gallon batch I believe half a WF tablet is always sufficient.

[goose]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't IM and Whirlfloc basically the same thing?  I have always been under that impression and the interwebs say that Whirlfloc is a compressed mixture of IM and carrageenan which confirms my point.  Am I missing something?

I use Whirlfloc because it not as messy to measure out.

There are at least two formulations of WhirlFloc as well. I use WhirlFloc-T (the tablets) because it explicitly claims not to require rehydration. Whether that actually makes a difference I don't think I can objectively say, but it makes dosing easy and the price difference is negligible in the scheme of things.

The other version is Whirlfloc G.  T is a tablet, G is granules.  (How did they think of the names?)  Neither requires any preparation.   But the granules are not as finely powdered as the material in the tablets.  So the difference in application is, the tablets are recommended to be added at 5 minutes before the end of the boil,  and the granules at 10 minutes.

I prefer the tablets because I can essentially make my own supercharged version of Brewbrite, dosing each component at its ideal time, which you can't in a single, combined product like Brewbrite.  BrewTan B at 7 minutes, Whirlfloc T at 5 minutes, and PVPP at 3 minutes.

Interesting, Rob.  I have always added the tablets in the last 15 minutes of the boil.  I had to look this up on the Grape website.  The bag says last 15 minutes.   I really don't think it makes much difference though.

[Robert]

From BSG's manual. 

The stuff has limited thermal stability, and as it has no effect on hot wort but only on the chilled wort, you want to add it late.  Just long enough in the hot wort to hydrate, late enough for the majority to survive into the chilled wort.  If including a whirlpool stand, consider adding it there.

(Whirlfloc G is a semi refined product as described below.)

[tommymorris]

Last year I forgot to add Whirlfloc to a batch. The wort was cloudy at pitch time and after fermentation. I didn’t want cloudy beer so I used gelatin in the keg. I was surprised how well the gelatin cleared that beer in just a few days. That beer was as clear as any I have brewed.

I am currently using Irish Moss. It seems to work just as well as Whirlfloc.

[goose]

From BSG's manual. 

The stuff has limited thermal stability, and as it has no effect on hot wort but only on the chilled wort, you want to add it late.  Just long enough in the hot wort to hydrate, late enough for the majority to survive into the chilled wort.  If including a whirlpool stand, consider adding it there.

(Whirlfloc G is a semi refined product as described below.)

Damn, I learned something new today!  That is what I love about this forum!