[Visor]

  I would correct that to say you don't need as much rice hulls when conditioning, one of my favorite beers is only 41% malt barley, the remainder is rye and other huskless stuff, that beer gets a glucan rest AND hulls and still takes twice as long to lauter as most of my other beers.
   I haven't had a problem yet letting the grain set for a few minutes, unless I was overzealous with the water. I used to calculate how much water to use and measure carefully, at this point I just go by feel. I mill the night before brew day so over wetting the grain when conditioning is really not a good idea.

[mabrungard]

I tried conditioning once and found such a difference that I haven’t stopped. I apply just enough water spray so that dust on my hand seems moist and give it maybe 15 minutes to hydrate. I use a mill with 2” rollers and mill as slowly as I can. Excellent flour and huge husks. Since I RIMS, getting good flow is very important and I do. My efficiency improved too.

There are plenty of ways to screw this up. Fast milling, under-hydrating, or small rollers can leave you with shredded husks. Over-hydrating can leave you with concrete on your rollers.

Pay attention, it works wonders when you do it right. It’s worthless if you do it wrong.

[denny]

I tried conditioning once and found such a difference that I haven’t stopped. I apply just enough water spray so that dust on my hand seems moist and give it maybe 15 minutes to hydrate. I use a mill with 2” rollers and mill as slowly as I can. Excellent flour and huge husks. Since I RIMS, getting good flow is very important and I do. My efficiency improved too.

There are plenty of ways to screw this up. Fast milling, under-hydrating, or small rollers can leave you with shredded husks. Over-hydrating can leave you with concrete on your rollers.

Pay attention, it works wonders when you do it right. It’s worthless if you do it wrong.

Again, it depends on your lauter system.