[Zach Grinnell]

I normally use distilled water and add gypsum and calcium chloride to it. I've been told that distilled water is needed for people who use breathing machines. I'd rather not buy up the supply for brewing when someone (especially right now) might need it more than me.

I've attached the water report from my county. Can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing my water? I'm mostly concerned with the chlorination. I have a filter but it doesn't completely remove it.

Thanks for your help.

Zach

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RJygOg7bA4APIN4XO2FEYdZ3ge_IkM1l/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lRm7S-pcvUyFwXdiOmnl4INBmhZljW9O/view?usp=sharing

[BrewBama]

I recommend you use a software program to plug your number into. I recommend Bru’n Water but there are others out there.

I also normally use distilled but I am brewing right now using my tap water. With some Lactic Acid and dark roast malts added to bring down the bicarbonate level, a bit of Gypsum, Cal Chloride, Salt, and Epson Salt, my water looks pretty good for an Amber beer. Not build my own good ...but not bad.

Also, ensure you dechlorinate your municipal water.  A Camden tablet will treat 20 gal. I use ‘Metbite’. ...but I think you can just boil it or even let it sit overnight.


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[Richard]

I agree with BrewBama. Your water looks pretty good overall - low mineral content so that you can easily add things to get whatever you want. Chlorine removal is essential, and campden is the easiest way to take care of that.

[hopfenundmalz]

Out standing tap water. I wish I had that.
Remove Chlorine.
You need to add some minerals.

Brew on.

[kramerog]

Water is not that different from distilled.  You probably won't have to change much.

If chlorine is the disinfectant used - can't tell from the chemistry report - you can aerate overnight to get rid of most of it then heat you water with the lid of. If chlramine is used, then metabisulfite will be needed.

[Lazy Ant Brewing]

I only brew dark beers and never buy water.  I got my water tested by Ward Labs, use Bru'n water calculations and my beer turns out great.  Adding a camden tab and a few grams of calcium chloride and gypsum is a lot handier and cheaper than buying gallons of RO and lugging it around.  RO water may be more necessary for lighter colored brews, but I'm glad I don't have to go there.

[hopfenundmalz]

I only brew dark beers and never buy water.  I got my water tested by Ward Labs, use Bru'n water calculations and my beer turns out great.  Adding a camden tab and a few grams of calcium chloride and gypsum is a lot handier and cheaper than buying gallons of RO and lugging it around.  RO water may be more necessary for lighter colored brews, but I'm glad I don't have to go there.

My water would be great for a RIS, but I brew light colored lagers and ales for the most part. Do what is right for the beer you are brewing.

[BrewBama]

One thing I’d like to add concerning software to determine water mineral additions: the first time you brew with certain preset additions recommended by the software designer will probably not be the final solution. Like IBU, the numbers are a reference to start from. Each of us is different in our preferences and perceptions of our beers.

For example, 40 IBU calculated by a beer design program of choice is perceived by one brewer as plenty of hops but for another as not near enough.

Likewise, the preset additions in the water software may not give the final desired results. It’ll get you started and definitely in the ballpark, but a bit more of this or a bit more of that discovered thru trial and error to nail down a profile will probably be required.


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[Zach Grinnell]

Thanks everyone. I'll be brewing tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

[majorvices]

I use a double in-line "whole house" filter (2) and run the water slow and it removed all of my chlorine without having to pre-boil or use campden tablets