[Homebrew_kev]

I'm brewing with WLP802 for the first time. Some of the research i've done says it can put out some acetaldehyde, if it's not fermented in a certain way. I'm seeing to ferment at 55 for 5 days and free rise to 62 for 3 days then lager at 32.

I've got a 2L starter going, I can aerate with pure O2, and control temps with a chest freezer.

I'm looking at doing a Helles with 100% pilsen malt from Sugar Creek and bearly enough hops (2oz Saaz 90min boil) - I was intending on doing a Pilsner, but realized i didn't have enough of the right hops, so it's a helles now.

Can anyone else share tips with this yeast strain?

[ravenwater]

I'll share my experience with this yeast - having used it a few times now. In fact I kegged a German pils last week from the Budojovice. I've found that yes I end up with quite a lot of acetaldehyde at the end of fermentation. For me this is then a matter of giving adequate lagering time. I've had other lager yeast result in quite a bit of acetaldehyde as well - something I believe is a trait of a lot of lager yeast to some degree or another. I wouldn't say this yeast gave me vastly more acetaldehyde than the 3 other lager yeasts I've used. First time I used the WLP802, and with other similar yeasts, after about a month much of the green apple flavor had faded and after 6 weeks I was pretty happy with the outcome. On the plus side is that what I've found so far is that this yeast give very low diacetyl and is really clean - I get malt shining through and a crisp, clean authentic pilsner quality. Also on the plus side - at least in my experience - is the WLP802 gives off comparatively little sulfur (compared with say the Saflager 34/70), so I'm not needing that to clear from the finished beer. My fermentation schedule has been start around 52 degrees F and hold it there until fermentation is nearing completion then edge it up a few degrees for a couple of days - maybe to 55/56 - and raise it for the diacetyl rest in the low 60s to finish.

[Homebrew_kev]

For me this is then a matter of giving adequate lagering time.

If I brew tomorrow would it be good by July 4th weekend? That'll be a close to 30 days of lagering.

have any mineral addition advice? I'll be using 10 gallons of RO water for a 5.5 gallon batch.

[denny]

For me this is then a matter of giving adequate lagering time.

If I brew tomorrow would it be good by July 4th weekend? That'll be a close to 30 days of lagering.

have any mineral addition advice? I'll be using 10 gallons of RO water for a 5.5 gallon batch.

For water additions, I'd do whatever Bru'nwater says for yellow balanced

[ravenwater]

I agree with Denny -  the yellow balanced profile is a good place to start. That was my starting point for recent lagers including this last one with the WLP802. As for serving by July 4th weekend, I'd venture that you'd be well on your way to having reduced a good deal of the acetaldehyde but it will still be detectable and will reduce further with a bit more lagering time. Depending on who you're serving it to and how picky you are this may not be a problem. Budweiser actually has a notable green apple flavor to it  - maybe especially if you're looking for it - and folks who are more the generic lager type drinkers might not feel the acetaldehyde is a flaw or unpleasant. My lager I just kegged is certainly drinkable and enjoyable, but not close to where I hope it will land - more time is needed.

[skyler]

What temp do you guys lager at with WLP802? I actually have a couple beers lagering with it (my 1st and 2nd ever brewed with this yeast). I have had these beers, and 2 other "lockdown lagers" that I brewed in March and April hanging in a 34F chest freezer. That has worked for me in the past with S-189, W-34/70 and MJ Bohemian Lager (which I understand is either repackaged S-23 or Diamond Lager yeast). But if WLP802 needs something different, I'd be interested to know. The current plan is to let them hang out at 34F for some time. I want to have a crystal clear Czech pale lager and a fresh West Coast IPA on tap for my wife after our daughter is born (due July 1!) since she hasn't been able to have any beer since October.

The beer that came first is actually in a 5 gallon class carboy "secondary" (which I rarely do, but I needed the space and figured it made sense with a beer I planned to lager for a long time). That beer had about 5.75 gallons of beer sitting on top of the yeast cake in primary, so I poured some off into a pitcher when I was harvesting the yeast cake -- it was slightly cloudy, but quite good and with no diacetyl (I think there may have been a small amount of acetaldehyde), and I actually ended up drinking the whole pitcher (it helped that it was cool and slightly carbonated).

[ravenwater]

What temp do you guys lager at with WLP802?

I lager at 34 degrees, but that's by default as much as anything - I'm lagering in the keg fridge I store my canned/bottled beers in and serve to my taps from - I just like to keep it good and cold to preserve the beers as much as possible. So my results are always based on that lagering temp. I figure lagering = extended cold storage so why complicate things by messing with temp settings or utilizing a separate fridge. If anyone wants to address here why they might choose to lager at a different temperature I'd be interested to hear.

[erockrph]

I lager all my beers at 30F. My thought is colder temps mean faster flocculation.

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[BrewBama]

I lager all my beers at 30F. My thought is colder temps mean faster flocculation.

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+1.


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[denny]

I lager all my beers at 30F. My thought is colder temps mean faster flocculation.

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Have you found much difference between 30 and 33 or 35?

[erockrph]

I lager all my beers at 30F. My thought is colder temps mean faster flocculation.

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Have you found much difference between 30 and 33 or 35?

I've always used 30F, so I don't have a comparison with those temps. I will say that, in general, beer does seem to clear up quicker at 30F vs 38F, which is my kegerator temp. When I get lazy and put a lager on tap and let it cold-condition as I'm drinking it takes maybe a week longer to drop bright compared to if I had kept it in the fermentation chamber at 30F.

[BrewBama]

I don’t think the 3* or 5* matters much as far as lagering but I use 30*F because the side-by-side I used to condition (in the temp controlled freezer) also dictates the temp in the serving (fridge) side. There’s just a trap door that regulates the fridge side by opening and closing while cycling the compressor. IOW: It makes the tapped beer cooler (45*F +/- a degree or three).


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[denny]

I don’t think the 3* or 5* matters much as far as lagering but I use 30*F because the side-by-side I used to condition (in the temp controlled freezer) also dictates the temp in the serving (fridge) side. There’s just a trap door that regulates the fridge side by opening and closing while cycling the compressor. IOW: It makes the tapped beer cooler.


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Yeah that's why I was wondering.  I used to lager/cold crash in my chest freezer at 30f.  Now if do it in my conical at 35F and really can't tell much difference.