[MattyAHA]

maybe someone can help correct what im doing wrong with bru'n water.  on brewday i got total different results then predicted, my sparge water was supposed to be 5.6 ended up being 3.5  , my mash ph was supposed to be 5.39 ended up being closer to 5.5, i filled out everything according to my starting water, added my grist in this case 100%pils, added enough gypsum,cal chloride and epsom to get to yellow dry profile everything seemed right on paper but not translating to my actual brew day, what might i be doing wrong?

[MattyAHA]

i did some minor tiny adjustments to the mash and just sparged with the 3.5 ph water for the hell of it lol, the pre boil wort is 5.39 so i guess i'll be alright after all

[rburrelli]

Looks at the sparge acidification tab in Bru’n water. Pretty straight forward. Take the pH of your distilled. Probably in the 7-8 range. Then select your target pH. Add acid to reach.

[erockrph]

The pH of water is far less important than the buffering capacity of the ions dissolved in it. Distilled water has zero buffering capacity, so even a small acid addition can lead to large swings in pH. This doesn't necessarily translate to large differences once added to the mash. I wouldn't worry about the pH of your sparge water too much.

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[denny]

The pH of water is far less important than the buffering capacity of the ions dissolved in it. Distilled water has zero buffering capacity, so even a small acid addition can lead to large swings in pH. This doesn't necessarily translate to large differences once added to the mash. I wouldn't worry about the pH of your sparge water too much.

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I do no adjustment to sparge water.  Of course, the water I use doesn't have a heavy mineral load.

[BrewBama]

I do no adjustment to sparge water.  Of course, the water I use doesn't have a heavy mineral load.

That’s interesting. I heat up all my water (strike + sparge), add minerals to the whole thing, then pour off the sparge liquor to hold for later.  Once I add strike liquor to the grain creating the mash, I add Brewtan B and acid (if required).


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[MattyAHA]

Alot of you dont treat your sparge, only your mash water but wouldn't that dilute your target profile? Or just add what you would add to the spare in the mash ,so like for example say brun water says add 2 g gypsum to the mash and 2 g of gypsum to the sparge just add 4 g to the mash and forget the spare water?I know it's probably a real eye roller for you sorry

[mabrungard]

Alot of you dont treat your sparge, only your mash water but wouldn't that dilute your target profile?

When brewing beers with lightly mineralized water, dilution is exactly the goal. Over-mineralizing the mashing water to help with mashing processes and then diluting the finished wort to the low target concentrations works well.

Regarding sparging water adjustment and pH, waters with little alkalinity do not require any acidification. If the pH measurement of treated sparging water is below 5, you’ve probably mis-entered something. It should never be that low. But that’s not true for mashing water since it’s pH prior to adding the grain can easily be less than 4. Thoses grains buffer the mash pH into the proper range.

[goose]

im a silly man i actually have brun water lol, i'm using 100% pilsner malt(viking) im going with 1.9g gypum, 0.9g calcium chloride and 0.7g epsom salt for the mash 3.5 gallons 1.4ml 88% lactic to acidify

for the sparge- 4 gallons(not equal like i mentioned before but close) 2.2 g gypsum, 1g calcium chloride and 0.8g epsom salt and for acidification 1.6ml lactic

according to brun water this gets me to est mash of 5.39, (calcium 59, mg 5, sodium 8, sufate 104, chloride 46 and bicarbonate -58)

this seems right on the money right?

Matty:  I don't treat my sparge water with any minerals.  I just use phosphoric acid to get the pH close to what the predicted mash pH is.  I then calculate the difference between the mash liquor volume and the kettle full volume, calculate the minerals needed for this differrence and add them directly to the kettle.  I omit adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) which is what Bru'nwater says (there is a button that you can set in the watere adjustment page of the program that allows you to add minerals directly to the kettle)  This works well for me and I have been doing this for years.

[MattyAHA]

well in the end, it ended up being one of the best pilsners i ever brewed very happy with the beer, impressed myself with this one

[pete b]

well in the end, it ended up being one of the best pilsners i ever brewed very happy with the beer, impressed myself with this one

I love a happy ending, especially when it involves beer and water chemistry.
Cheers

[MattyAHA]

well in the end, it ended up being one of the best pilsners i ever brewed very happy with the beer, impressed myself with this one

I love a happy ending, especially when it involves beer and water chemistry.
Cheers

yeah man, its always great when your work pays off, i been struggling to make a good pils for quite some time...its the water