If I was jumping into the hobby with the knowledge I have and planning to brew the beers I brew I'd strongly consider one of the newer all-in-one systems although I'd probably need a large back up kettle for turbid mashes. I still do a fair number of one gallon batches so not sure if any of those systems reliably produce batches that small.
I had already purchased two kettles and a couple of beverage coolers before I considered all-in-one brewing. If the garage had 240VAC service when we did our inspection, I probably would have gone with an all-in-one, but I knew that 120VAC service is slow to heat from previously using a portable 1800W induction cooktop for boils with a starting volume of 4.25 gallons. Upgrading my old garage to 240VAC was an eye-opening experience.
That being said, I finally finished installing 240VAC service to the new garage, I was stuck in analysis paralysis between installing a NEMA 6-20 (240/20A 3-wire), NEMA 14-20 (120-240/20A 4-wire), or a NEMA 14-30 (120-240/30A) circuit in the garage. I purchased 240VAC GFI breakers for both 20 and 30A service. In the end, I went with the NEMA 14-30 topology. As much as I dislike the size of the receptacle and plug, going with a NEMA 14-30 circuit meant that I would never need to modify it because I do not see myself needing an element larger than 5500W and my preference is for using an induction cooktop because having an element inside of a kettle makes using an immersion chiller a challenge. MoreBeer has solved that problem with their SlingBlade elements, but that would leave me in a single-source situation. Plus, I prefer the simplicity of induction brewing.
Anyway for anyone who is contemplating installing their own NEMA 14-30 circuit, working with 10/3 Romex is no fun. It is unbelievably stiff compared to 14/2, 12/2, and even 12/3 Romex. Modern 10/3 Romex almost looks like a caricature compared to the 14/2 and 12/2 runs one finds in one's house. Modern 10/3 Romex is flat whereas the 10/3 Romex that was used for the clothes dryer run when this house was built is round, making modern Romex wider and significantly more difficult to pull without kinking. I had to deal with routing it through a tight area near the load center.
This run was the first circuit I have ever wired with the 200A main breaker on. While the 200A breaker kills power to all of other other breakers, one still has to be cognizant that the two 200A hot legs and the center tap coming from the meter are still hot. The only way to turn them off is at the meter. I watched the master electrician who wired my garage for 240VAC service wire the breaker into the box hot, so I knew how to do it. Plus, if I had killed service to the panel, I would have lost all of my lighting sources while still having to deal with the 200A hot legs. The important thing to remember is to never stick both hands inside of the load center to avoid allowing current to make a path through one's heart. Also the two hots and the white neutral are wired into the breaker before it is snapped into the load center. The ground wire carries no current, so it can be wired into the ground or the ground/neutral bus with the panel hot (I wired the ground from the run and the neutral from the breaker before seating the breaker). One just needs to be careful. The neutral (white pigtail) from the breaker is wired into the neutral bus or ground/neutral bus. The breaker should be snapped into the load center in the "off" position. It should remain in the off position until the breaker is fully seated. My load centers are from the Square D QO series. The GFI version of a two-pole 30A breaker is significantly wider than the non-GFI two-pole 30A breaker, so this difference needs to be taken into account when cutting the black, red, and white wire from the 10/3 Romex run. As I mentioned, 10-gauge wires are stiff; therefore, they are not as easy to move around as 14 or even 12-gauge wires when seating the breaker in the load center.
By the way, the reason why the neutral wire has to be connected to a GFI breaker is because the breaker contains a current sensing inductive circuit that checks for current imbalance through the conductors, which means that there is an alternate path to ground; hence, the name Ground Fault Interruptor. The two hot legs are 180 degrees out of phase, which means that the currents flowing through them sum to zero. If we were to wire the white wire to the ground/neutral bus, the GFI circuit would trip every time we used a 120VAC device connected to one of the two hots and the neutral because there would be no out of phase current to cancel the extra current draw on one of the hot legs. The neutral (white wire) acts as the out of phase current path on a 120VAC circuit. All three wire pass through the inductive circuit; therefore, as long as the currents flowing through all three wires sum to zero, we are golden.