[RC]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

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If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

[denny]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

Agreed

[ravenwater]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

Agreed

I guess I missed the memo on this, so to speak, Denny - you are saying wort aeration is not a must if pitching dry yeast packet directly into the wort? Please say a bit more...

[denny]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

Agreed

I guess I missed the memo on this, so to speak, Denny - you are saying wort aeration is not a must if pitching dry yeast packet directly into the wort? Please say a bit more...

The purpose of aeration is so that the yeast can produce sterols to keep cell walls inflexible to aid budding. When dry yeast is produced, growth is stopped during sterols production.  No further sterols are needed, so no aeration is needed.

[fredthecat]

yup absolutely. however, i think different yeast strains do have greatly different oxygen requirements. i've never had attenuation issues before ever, even on big beers or meads. i am struggling right now with WLP500's attenuation, and the only variable i'm missing is pure oxygen.

Yes, different yeast strains have different O₂ requirements, but most of the strains available to amateur brewers are O1 or O2 with respect O₂ demands.  How are you aerating?  Are you using a venturi? Splash aeration will get one to O1 (half air saturation) at best.  A venturi will get one to O2 (full air saturation).

Here is what I use to aerate wort:




It is a piece of racking with holes drilled downward in the flow of the wort.  It functions as a venturi even though it does not look like a traditional venturi.  The device is placed vertically at the end of the tubing draining one's kettle into one's fermentation vessel.  The inside diameter is 1/4".  When used with 5/16" or 3/8" tubing, the wort pressure flowing through it drops while the flow rate accelerates.  This phenomenon is known as the Bernoulli principle.  The result is a vacuum that draws and mixes air through the holes.  If used correctly, it will create a head of foam large enough on top of the wort that one will have to slow down the flow in order to allow the foam to dissipate.  When dealing with yeast, foam is good.

By the way, if you want to learn more about O₂ demands, here is a link to Brian Kirsop's seminal paper on the subject: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1974.tb03614.x

that is an awesome concept. yes, i have been shake aerating.

to confirm, you aerate the wort using this effect while transferring the wort from kettle to carboy (fermentor)?

that is a really viable solution for a lot of people, and i might follow this route. first i need to improve my wort chiller though so it gets wort to true pitching temp. not going to lie, i made it myself out of copper tube, and tried to go cheap ($50 CAD total), it works, but it takes about an hour of water running to get it to the right temp.. and i usually just chill it to ~50C and let it rest over night.

[HopDen]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

Doesn't matter to me. I do it anyway. I don't know and probably don't care the why's or why nots to aerating dry yeast. My approach is if its good for liquid it can't be harmful for dry.

[denny]

I just recently purchased an oxygen tank and aeration stone for my next set of brews. After some research it seems that simply pouring your wort into the carboy and shaking it repeatedly was not sufficient enough aeration. (Still not sure on all the facts). So I ran a little test on my yeast starters one aerated and one was not. The one that was aerated absolutely BLEW UP. The one that was not. Not so much I got some yeasties working in there. But I also wonder if it also depends on yeast strain. Matching. Gravity and volume and temperature. That was the best controls for experiment I could come up with.

Anyone have any thoughts or insight on aeration? (If that is the correct term)

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I am repitching yeast, I aerate first then pitch. If I am using dried yeast, I first sprinkle yeast onto wort, wait 15-20 mins then aerate.

Aeration isn't necessary when using dry yeast.

Doesn't matter to me. I do it anyway. I don't know and probably don't care the why's or why nots to aerating dry yeast. My approach is if its good for liquid it can't be harmful for dry.

I don't know if I agree with your logic, but go right ahead and do what you like.

[Oiscout]

yup absolutely. however, i think different yeast strains do have greatly different oxygen requirements. i've never had attenuation issues before ever, even on big beers or meads. i am struggling right now with WLP500's attenuation, and the only variable i'm missing is pure oxygen.

Yes, different yeast strains have different O₂ requirements, but most of the strains available to amateur brewers are O1 or O2 with respect O₂ demands.  How are you aerating?  Are you using a venturi? Splash aeration will get one to O1 (half air saturation) at best.  A venturi will get one to O2 (full air saturation).

Here is what I use to aerate wort:




It is a piece of racking with holes drilled downward in the flow of the wort.  It functions as a venturi even though it does not look like a traditional venturi.  The device is placed vertically at the end of the tubing draining one's kettle into one's fermentation vessel.  The inside diameter is 1/4".  When used with 5/16" or 3/8" tubing, the wort pressure flowing through it drops while the flow rate accelerates.  This phenomenon is known as the Bernoulli principle.  The result is a vacuum that draws and mixes air through the holes.  If used correctly, it will create a head of foam large enough on top of the wort that one will have to slow down the flow in order to allow the foam to dissipate.  When dealing with yeast, foam is good.

By the way, if you want to learn more about O₂ demands, here is a link to Brian Kirsop's seminal paper on the subject: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1974.tb03614.x

that is an awesome concept. yes, i have been shake aerating.

to confirm, you aerate the wort using this effect while transferring the wort from kettle to carboy (fermentor)?

that is a really viable solution for a lot of people, and i might follow this route. first i need to improve my wort chiller though so it gets wort to true pitching temp. not going to lie, i made it myself out of copper tube, and tried to go cheap ($50 CAD total), it works, but it takes about an hour of water running to get it to the right temp.. and i usually just chill it to ~50C and let it rest over night.

I went full NO-CHILL and never looked back, cut big time off my brew day,  Saved money on my Water Bill.

I also run off my yeast starter after it hits the kettle from the Mash Tun, Boil it, cool it and pitch when I'm cleaned up from the big batch. Then that yeast starter is ready for pitching about when the Cube is cool and ready to aerate now.

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[Bel Air Brewing]

We never aerate our work artificially. There is enough O2 pickup when racking from the boil kettle that it is not an issue. No need to spend money and time on something that is not required, and is of little real value.

But that's just our technique. Your technique may vary.

[Oiscout]

Results in my brewery so far say otherwise. We'll see at tasting time here soon

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[BrewBama]

Doesn't matter to me. I do it anyway. I don't know and probably don't care the why's or why nots to aerating dry yeast. My approach is if its good for liquid it can't be harmful for dry.

I think I aerate by transferring into the fermenter. I don’t break out the red bottle or anything but I do get some foam on top of the wort when the xfer is complete.


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[pete b]

Doesn't matter to me. I do it anyway. I don't know and probably don't care the why's or why nots to aerating dry yeast. My approach is if its good for liquid it can't be harmful for dry.

I think I aerate by transferring into the fermenter. I don’t break out the red bottle or anything but I do get some foam on top of the wort when the xfer is complete.


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Break out the red bottle?

[HopDen]

We never aerate our work artificially. There is enough O2 pickup when racking from the boil kettle that it is not an issue. No need to spend money and time on something that is not required, and is of little real value.

But that's just our technique. Your technique may vary.

I pump from BK through the plate chiller into conical FV. I don't think I would pick up ample O2. When I brewed with coolers, keggles and carboys I would still oxygenate the wort. Like you said, technique will vary. I would add, results vary too with variables. At the end of the day, its your recipe and if you like the final result, that's really all that matters.

[Oiscout]

That's the beauty of home-brewing

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[BrewBama]

Doesn't matter to me. I do it anyway. I don't know and probably don't care the why's or why nots to aerating dry yeast. My approach is if its good for liquid it can't be harmful for dry.

I think I aerate by transferring into the fermenter. I don’t break out the red bottle or anything but I do get some foam on top of the wort when the xfer is complete.


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Break out the red bottle?

My O2 bottle is red. ...but I haven’t used it in yrs because I use dry yeast.