i think we're getting close to a clear answer here on "to what level do you need to oxygenate your wort?"
people are saying "well i don't and mine is fine" - that is how i thought too -when i used dry yeast of limited variety and did not make too many high gravity beers.
there seems to be a belief that dry yeast does not need any or as much oxygenation as liquid yeast?
there are definitely yeasts that require more oxygen than others
official (as in people who deal with propagating yeast on a commercial/professional level) people stress the importance of oxygen in homebrewing. they are stating that ales (too broad, but thats all i could find so far) require 8-12ppm oxygen and lagers require 10-15ppm oxygen.
i do not have a problem reaching an appropriate FG and a good tasting beer with OGs 1.055 and under using my typical method of shaking the carboy for a minute right before adding yeast (dry or liquid).
i have had problems reaching an appropriate FG when making beers with OGs higher than 1.065 with some yeasts and the taste results have not been satisfactory to me.
people who reject pure oxygenation outright, consider the above.
i'm trying to find any page that shows classes or levels of oxygenation recommended for yeasts. west yorkshire is an example of a yeast that apparently requires much more oxygen than other strains. anyone?
another thing i do wonder is - how did brewers in the past achieve oxygenation? there were plenty of strong brews being made, thanks to the barclay perkins site i am aware that they were hitting much lower attenuation than anyone would want in the 21st century, but that wasnt always the case.
This is my understanding also!
So few of us homebrewers are dedicated users of a single yeast allowing us to fully explore its capabilities. Often we pull back after a failure because there are easier options available, which is fine.
I’ve made at least 60 batches with Nottingham, love the yeast’s versatility and fermentation properties. I’ve made pseudo lagers with heavy pitching at 57F, coaxed subtle fruity esters with more moderate pitching and higher pitching rates, etc. Yet, I’ve barely scratched the surface of what it can do!
Different yeasts, different processes, different wort qualities, etc have different requirements. I’m convinced wlp530 would chew through a rusty Volkswagen while wlp820 is the most slow cantankerous yeast ever dispensed with no amount of nutrients or oxygen being able to get it to perform in my process.
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