[fredthecat]

good thread, because ive been wanting to ask without sounding like a noob.



a lot of people who are highly anti-secondary (note: I only secondary occasionally now), also state they dry hop for a very short time, ie 24 hours or so.



how do you not get major hop sediment in the beer?


my technique has been to add dry hops 3 or 4 days before i am planning to secondary a beer, the hops tend to float on top in my experience. when i transfer the beer, most hops are left behind and the particles that are brought into the secondary fall out quickly. then i have fairly clear beer.

[BrewBama]

+1. More than one way to skin a cat.  Weigh the pros and cons and select a method best for you.

[denny]

good thread, because ive been wanting to ask without sounding like a noob.



a lot of people who are highly anti-secondary (note: I only secondary occasionally now), also state they dry hop for a very short time, ie 24 hours or so.



how do you not get major hop sediment in the beer?


my technique has been to add dry hops 3 or 4 days before i am planning to secondary a beer, the hops tend to float on top in my experience. when i transfer the beer, most hops are left behind and the particles that are brought into the secondary fall out quickly. then i have fairly clear beer.

Cold temps make them drop out quickly.  When I dry hop at 35F the hops are pretty much dropped in 48 hours.

[majorvices]

I usually dry hop for about 3-5 days and by then they are all crashed out. For the record I'm no opposed to using a secondary i just think it is best to minimize racking as much as possible. I am opposed to using a secondary routinely for no other reason except for clarity since this is unnecessary. Plus, if a secondary is purged with co2 it isn't really a problem. While it is true DO can be a problem in finished beer it is much more a problem with commercial brewers who can't control the beer once it leaves the brewery and need to maintain shelf life as long as possible.

[fredthecat]

good thread, because ive been wanting to ask without sounding like a noob.



a lot of people who are highly anti-secondary (note: I only secondary occasionally now), also state they dry hop for a very short time, ie 24 hours or so.



how do you not get major hop sediment in the beer?


my technique has been to add dry hops 3 or 4 days before i am planning to secondary a beer, the hops tend to float on top in my experience. when i transfer the beer, most hops are left behind and the particles that are brought into the secondary fall out quickly. then i have fairly clear beer.

Cold temps make them drop out quickly.  When I dry hop at 35F the hops are pretty much dropped in 48 hours.

ok, i was close to setting it in a ~34F room but figured it wouldnt make a difference over just a few days. i might be able to try next time i dry hop.

[Joe_Beer]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

[majorvices]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

For me personally I dry hop at fermentation temps (though I'm itching to try Denny's method at 34F soon). I haven't found any difference at temperature, warm or coolish. I've had great luck from high 50's to low 70's.

I try to dry hop right near the end of fermentation so that the yeast activity scrubs any o2 that may be introduced. I let the hops sit for a few days to let the beer clear up and avoid any potential issues with hop creep.

It doesn't take long for the beer to absorb the hop aroma and it doesn't take more than a few days for the hops to settle out.

[allenhuerta]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

This is where all the info on the cold dry hopping is coming from.. plus experience of the homebrewers that have done it.

http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/

I've done it this way, and I wouldn't do it any other way but I can make it happen pretty easily with my set up.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[denny]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

I have started dry hopping at 35F for 48 jiyrs and am getting the best dry hop character Ive ever had.   I firmly believe that warm dry hopping is not  as effective.

[denny]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

For me personally I dry hop at fermentation temps (though I'm itching to try Denny's method at 34F soon). I haven't found any difference at temperature, warm or coolish. I've had great luck from high 50's to low 70's.

I try to dry hop right near the end of fermentation so that the yeast activity scrubs any o2 that may be introduced. I let the hops sit for a few days to let the beer clear up and avoid any potential issues with hop creep.

It doesn't take long for the beer to absorb the hop aroma and it doesn't take more than a few days for the hops to settle out.

I also think the short time is key.  According the the BSG paper, after 48 hours, you've extracted all that you're going to in terms of the stuff you want.  After that, the oils start getting reabsorbed.  The short time also limits expression of polyphenols.

[fredthecat]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

I have started dry hopping at 35F for 48 jiyrs and am getting the best dry hop character Ive ever had.   I firmly believe that warm dry hopping is not  as effective.

the way i read that it sounds a bit long to dry hop?

i can only imagine your refrigeration bill

[denny]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

I have started dry hopping at 35F for 48 jiyrs and am getting the best dry hop character Ive ever had.   I firmly believe that warm dry hopping is not  as effective.

the way i read that it sounds a bit long to dry hop?

i can only imagine your refrigeration bill

😁 typing on a tablet before coffee yields some interesting words...

[BrewBama]

You have to learn to interpret ‘Denny speak’.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[BaseWerks Brewing]

I have a few different methods depending on the beer.  I do want to experiment more with the method Denny describes.

Old School/ West Coast IPAs
Dry hop after fermentation is complete, usually for 5-7 days then cold crash 

NEIPAs
I double dry hop.  The first smaller addition goes in  with a few Plato left in fermentation.  The second will go in at the end after I've started to bring the yeast down for cold crash.  The temp is usually 55-60.  I continue to drop the temperature for a few days then cold crash the beer after 2 days and rack it to a keg a day or two later.  This method I developed from a Juicy Bits clone and works well for me.

After reading Scott Janish's book, The New IPA, I've plan to try to reduce the dry hop time and maybe add hops right at cold crash as Denny describes.  There are a lot of new things I want to try from that book.  It will take me awhile to get through them because I want to do each one on its own to really be able to determine what made the change.

[majorvices]

...Dry hop at the very end of fermentation helps to alleviate DO pick up but you can add them just about any time without any major problems. ...

How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I'll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with "optimizing"?

For me personally I dry hop at fermentation temps (though I'm itching to try Denny's method at 34F soon). I haven't found any difference at temperature, warm or coolish. I've had great luck from high 50's to low 70's.

I try to dry hop right near the end of fermentation so that the yeast activity scrubs any o2 that may be introduced. I let the hops sit for a few days to let the beer clear up and avoid any potential issues with hop creep.

It doesn't take long for the beer to absorb the hop aroma and it doesn't take more than a few days for the hops to settle out.

I also think the short time is key.  According the the BSG paper, after 48 hours, you've extracted all that you're going to in terms of the stuff you want.  After that, the oils start getting reabsorbed.  The short time also limits expression of polyphenols.

I agree but it has to be practical as well. At Yellowhammer I would recirculate the hops in the tank over night then centrifuge the next day. For homebrew I usually let them sit for 3-5 days because of practicality.