[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

I'm slowing piecing together my electric brewing setup.  Next step is adding a control box for my boil kettle's heating element. 

Boil kettle has a Ripple 5500w element from Brew Hardware, which uses the integrated L6-30P connection.  In my garage I have an L6-30R on a dedicated 30 amp breaker. 

To my issue.  I am having  a control box built through Auber.  They seem to have two models for 30 power, one that has an input power connection that is 30A/240V (USA) and uses an L14-30P inlet and a second option that is a 30A/220V (EU) that uses the L6-30P inlet.

So I need the L6 style, not the L14, so I can use my existing receptacle.  What do I lose by going with the 220V rated "EU" model?   Alternatively, could I use an adapter to go L6-30P to L14-30R and use the USA style model? 

Thanks for the input!

[KellerBrauer]

In order to achieve a safe environment for you and your equipment, I recommend taking your questions to the manufacturer of your controller.

[goose]

The only possibility I can see is that the EU model might run on 50 Hz (cycles per second) while the US model runs at 60 Hz.  The 50 Hz unit will run a bit cooler than the 60 Hz version.  It should operate on 60 Hz except any internal timers in the unit (if there are any) would be off.

That said, I would also recommend contacting the manufacturer to confirm that there would be no problems.

[roger]

The previous comments are right on, I would work with the builder.

The adapter seems to be the logical choice, its safe, not too expensive, plus you get a controller to match your voltage/frequency. I have an 240V adapter on the source for my system, and have never had a single problem.

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

Spoke with Auber after sending them pictures to confirm my setup.  Basically to use there Cube 3D requires the L14 because it must have the neutral, which the L6 (hot hot ground) obviously doesn't have. 

So there suggestion was to either replace the power supply receptacle with the L14 so I can use the US version OR to go with the custom control box EU model and only run the heat control and not any additionally auxiliary (pump, etc). 

The accents and language difference made it difficult to understand, but that's the gist of what I was told. 

[mabrungard]

Those wall receptacles are fairly inexpensive.  I think receptacle replacement is the way to go. 

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

Agree, I'm leaning that way, but may have my electrician add an L14  below the L6, so I have both options available. 

[ynotbrusum]

And add GFCI protection to the circuit, if it isn't GFCI protected (but I suspect everyone knew that...)

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

Yep, my L6 is GFCI protected already.

[kpfoleyjr]

I have an electric brewery using the same BrewHardware.com boil kettle with a 5500 watt element and an Auber Brew Buddy 1 controller.  The feed to the controller is an L14-30R four conductor connector; the feed to the heater element is an L6-30R connector.  I also run an HLT from the same controller using another L6-30R connection.  I discussed the setup with Auber when I ordered it - like you, I had difficulty understanding the lady who answered my questions, although I have to say she was very knowledgeable.  I built the electrical feed myself and used new L14 and L6 connectors that I bought from Home Depot.  Everything works fine from day 1 - I think that is the way to go.  No jumpers, use the correct new connectors.

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

I have an electric brewery using the same BrewHardware.com boil kettle with a 5500 watt element and an Auber Brew Buddy 1 controller.  The feed to the controller is an L14-30R four conductor connector; the feed to the heater element is an L6-30R connector.  I also run an HLT from the same controller using another L6-30R connection.  I discussed the setup with Auber when I ordered it - like you, I had difficulty understanding the lady who answered my questions, although I have to say she was very knowledgeable.  I built the electrical feed myself and used new L14 and L6 connectors that I bought from Home Depot.  Everything works fine from day 1 - I think that is the way to go.  No jumpers, use the correct new connectors.

Cool, sounds like you were in the same boat as I. Thanks for sharing!

So as I understand it, and I am not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination, the purpose of the L14 style L L N G is to split the 240v input into two 120V feeds, which you can't do with the L6 as it doesn't have a neutral. 

So either I have Auber (or I do it myself) build a control box that is only intended to run the hearing element and therefor has no need to split into 120v feeds OR I do as you suggest and have the L14-30R wall receptacle put in and basically go with a build such as yours. 

Yours would give me more flexibility to have a box that runs auxiliary equipment (e.g. pump), although I already have an Inkbird that runs my RIMS tube and pump. 

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

Got to thinking, and man I'm sure this is going to be a dumb question, but here goes.

If I have an L6 to L14 adapter, that essentially turns my L6-30R into an L14-30R and I have my neutral.  I understand that adapters do not convert voltage, but the adapter would then change it to two hot 120 lines, a neutral and a ground, correct?

Then, with that, I could use that standard US control box from Auber that has the L14 input power connection. 

To be fair, I believe someone above mentioned the adapter as a good option, and my brain just doubled back on it late

[kpfoleyjr]

I used an L14 receptacle in a box mounted to the wall, and have a 3-ft jumper that runs from it to the Auber Brew Buddy 1.  I think I paid about $15 for the L14 receptacle at Home Depot.  I like things neat and clean, and I was starting from scratch, so I built it up to match what I needed for the Auber.  The Auber feeds electricity to and controls the HLT element for my HERMS setup, the boil kettle element, and my pumps.  It also picks up the temperature sensors for the control.
 
Without seeing the L6/L14 adapter wiring and how the separate neutral would fit in, I wouldn't trust it.  No L6 to L14 adapters with a separate neutral -   just a neat and clean L14 receptacle to run an L14 jumper cord to the Auber.

[roger]

After reviewing the wiring diagrams for the two receptacles, and a little more thought, kpfoleyjr is correct. Since the EU L6-30 does not include the neutral, any "jumper" will need the neutral added separately. The L14-30 requires the neutral. You say you have a neutral available. Assumed that is in the outlet box, but not connected to your current L6-30 receptacle. I can't wrap my head around how the neutral is connected to the L14-30 side of the jumper in a safe manner, much less meet your local electrical code.

Martin's comment below makes more sense to me now, just replace the plug with an L14-30P and you are safe to go.

[SmokeyHopsHomeBrew]

Yep, agree Roger.  I contacted my electrician and he's going to put in an L14 for me.  You are correct in that my L6 does not have a neutral available...so the adapter wouldn't help in that respect.  Going to the pro's for this one!

Thanks for all the input, that's why I love this forum.  As I always say, the only bad idea is the bad idea you try and execute!