[erockrph]

I pump until the bottom of the kettle is covered with trub. I know some goes into the fermenter but not a lot. Doesn't seem detrimental.

I drain, not pump, but otherwise same here. I eyeball the racking arm until I'm sucking trub and stop at that point. I ferment in a keg with a floating dip tube, so I don't have to worry about racking any trub into the serving keg.

FWIW, except for a dry hopped IPA, I wouldn't think twice about repitching from a beer that has some kettle trub in it. If it didn't hurt the first batch, its not going to hurt the second.

[kramerog]

Let trub settle after boil and immersion cooling. Open drain valve. At the end, I might tilt the kettle to get the most wort possible but once I see trub getting suspended and approaching the drain valve I stop. 

[brewthru]

Easiest for me. A clean and sanitized paint strainer bag over a clean and sanitized plastic food grade bucket marked with gallons and 1/2 gallons. When I've collected enough in the plastic food grade bucket transfer the paint strainer to another clean and stanitized plastic food grade bucket and strain while I pour the first bucket into my fermenter.

[DBhomebrew]

I've tried the whole hop bag on the end of racking cane. It helped, except for when it didn't and then it was a bigger PITA than when it worked. Losing 1/2-3/4 gallon to the hop bed was seriously cutting into my brewlength.

Now, I use a 200 micron bucket top paint strainer.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B6C2H9T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2N7ZNR3JCEMYZZ86SDBF

Absolutely everything gets poured into it over my bottling bucket. Ten minutes later all that's left on top in the strainer is a wasabi-like paste of trub and hop matter.

I now get a pint or so over four gallons into the fermenter of clean trub-free wort out of a five gallon kettle. I used to get a fairly trubby 3.75G on a good day.

[redrocker652002]

Since my last post I have moved to BIAB and changed things around a bit.  I have a bazooka screen built into my boil kettle, I use a hop bag to keep my hop pellets in check.  I have a propane burner that sits high enough to where I can open the ball valve and let the wort just run into the fermenting bucket.  The bazooka screen catches most of the crud in the boil kettle, but since I am using a hop bag and BIAB there is not much in there to catch.  I use the pour into the bucket as a way to aerate the wort, so I think that is ok too.  Once it hits the fermenting bucket, it is usually at pitching temp, so in goes the yeast and a quick stir or agitation of the bucket and off we go.   Not sure if this is the right thing to do, but that is what I have found works for me.  RR

[soymateofeo]

In my all in one I use a center hop spider that has a nylon bag and it is great.  No noticeable reduction in utilization.  I had a stainless mesh spider and my utilization was significantly lower.

Martin.  What kind of stainless braid do you have on your pick up tube?

[goose]

For a couple of years, I increased my batch size by 1/2 gallon and transferred crystal clear wort into the fermenter. I saw absolutely no improvement in the end product. For the 10 or so years since, I've transferred several different ways without much concern about trub. The trub settles out, compacts along with the yeast and has no negative effect whatsoever. As long as you're not pushing the volume of your fermenter(s), I see nothing wrong with transferring trub.

I’m inclined to agree with Bob.  I use Muslin Hop Bags in the boil kettle.  I’m sure my hop utilization is declined a bit.  But I adjusted for it in my software.

I’m sure some grub gets into my fermenter.  But it sinks to the bottom with the yeast.  No worries.  I have to use the bags because I pump the wort through a plate cooler and I don’t want to clog it.

I too use a hop bag in the kettle when using pellets.  When I make my Amarillo IPA, I use hop cones  of Amarillo and that creates a filter bed on my false bottom to filter out the bittering hop pellets and a lot of the trub.  It works very well.  BTW, I draw from the center of my keggle boil kettle which is why I have a false bottom in the kettle.  I have thought about modifying the configuration of the pickup in the boil kettle so that I can whirlpool at the end of the boil, but laziness and the mantra of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" has kept me from doing this so far.

I also have an stainless steel inline screen before my plate chiller that catches a lot of wayward hope pieces that escape the hop bag.  I get very little hops in the chiller using this method and the small amount of trub that would make it to the fermenter is not a problem for me.  It has been mentioned before on this forum that a small amount of trub is a good nutrient for the yeast.

[PORTERHAUS]

I let the wort sit and settle after chilling it down (usually 30 mins or so) so I can transfer clear wort. I ferment, carbonate and then serve all in the same keg so starting with as clear of wort as I can is a goal. A ph drop the last 10 mins of the boil and Whirlfloc at 5 mins makes this pretty easy.